another disco

[87chevy]

Well i guess its my turn, disco shit the bed got a new one on order. Was wondering if you guys could give me any tips on the change out and if there are any special tools needed. I have been searching around and reading the threads on this so i got a good idea but this will be the first time i have messed with it so we will see how it gos.

[DirtyBacon04]

Wear mech gloves... getting that shaft out can be a real knuckle buster. Also, I'd open up the new one just to make sure there is sufficient grease in there.

[87chevy]

Will do thanks for the info

[v7guy]

The good and bad is all well documented here. Sometimes it's easy going, sometimes it's a horror show. Stay warm.

[BWGuy]

Hope this isn't too far off the original subject, but I've got a quick disco story...

So, I lifted my truck with a 3 inch front 2 inch back kit. Not the right kit, but as far as this issue goes, I don't think there's a better kit except one with less lift overall.

After the lift, my passenger CV was hanging hard enough that the disco would not engage unless I got under the truck and supported the CV by hand while twisting the prop shaft to front diff. A bit of a pain, but I could still go 4wheel if needed.

So last night, I got my new bearings and seal and replaced both outboard bearings in the disconnect. Now there is a LOT less slop in the CV position, but the collar still won't engage on it's own.

Based on forum info, I opted not to replace the inboard bearing and seal, because it really didn't seem like the inboard gear was sloppy enough that it would be the one out of position enough to prevent everything from lining up. Maybe it was though.

Anyway, I've got fresh bearings and fresh grease, and I can still engage the disconnect by sliding under the truck, but if anyone has any suggestions on how to make this thing work like it's supposed to, I'd surely appreciate the help. The one thing I'm pretty sure I'm not ready to do, though, is buy the AWD sleeve, 'cause I just don't use 4wheel often enough justify the extra driveline activity this would generate.

[dvanbramer88]

Hate to say it, But the only real solution would be to buy the AWD sleeve. Or at the very least, weld your gears together achieving the same thing.

What works for some people is, Put it in A4WD on the road a few minutes before getting to the trail. This will give the disconnect time to engage. Articulation and the cycling of the suspension while going down the road can and might achieve what you are doing manually under the truck. It works reliably for some people, others; not so much.

[DirtyBacon04]

Hate to say it, But the only real solution would be to buy the AWD sleeve. Or at the very least, weld your gears together achieving the same thing.

I have no problems with my awd sleeve, other than the occasional 'Service 4wd' light because the actuator is zip-tied to the frame and bounces around alot.

[BWGuy]

Maybe a dumb question, but has anyone ever just moved the fork spring from its normal spot to in-between the actuator and the "cup" that it pushes on? Would this be the equivalent of a cheapo's AWD mod?

'Cause I am a bit of a cheapo.

Random off-subject note... LOVING the Powertrax No Slip. Seems like it's already breaking in nicely with only about 200 miles so far.

[dvanbramer88]

Yes and no, not exactly sure what you are thinking, but people have stuck a bolt or socket extension in the tube for the spring/actuator to permanently lock the disconnect in the engaged position. A step further would be welding the gears together.

[SmokeyMcBlazer]

how high can you lift the truck before this becomes an issue?

[Trail X]

I was originally going to just move the spring, but the spring has an issue seating on the plunger face, since the plunger face is hollowish.

Yes and no, not exactly sure what you are thinking, but people have stuck a bolt or socket extension in the tube for the spring/actuator to permanently lock the disconnect in the engaged position.

I've had this working for about two years now - now with an AWD sleeve sitting in the garage, just waiting to be installed. But I'm worried that I probably have a fair bit of wear on the parts again... and should probably pull a junkyard disconnect and start there instead of trying to jerry rig my own disconnect yet again.

how high can you lift the truck before this becomes an issue?

0.1"... But seriously - these disconnects wear even on non-lifted trucks... it's just that the load on the internal needle bearings increases with a lift, and therefore it just tends to wear out faster and the failure is a little more dramatic.

[The Roadie]

Basically, with ANY lift, even 1", the CV shafts get more exercise, the differential, hub, and disconnect bearings see more side loads, and stuff wears out faster. Statistics suggest that items that were getting 100K miles might get 50K after a lift, but it also depends on how hard you're wheeling it and how much heavier tire/wheel combination you slap on. I don't count on getting more than 20-30K out of a set of Timken hub bearings, but I have great and challenging terrain to wheel on.

The lifts you see in our master thread: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20 are all tested to not break things right away (some lifts out there especially on Ebay are dangerous and break CV shafts due to excessive lift). But a well-greased disconnect is usually one of the last things to break. Not a huge worry, but it is one of many reasons that offroading this platform is best done if you have $500-1000 in liquid savings or credit to fix stuff you might break if the truck is also your daily driver.

[SmokeyMcBlazer]

thanks for the info guys

[BWGuy]

I was originally going to just move the spring, but the spring has an issue seating on the plunger face, since the plunger face is hollowish.

Yes and no, not exactly sure what you are thinking, but people have stuck a bolt or socket extension in the tube for the spring/actuator to permanently lock the disconnect in the engaged position.

I've had this working for about two years now - now with an AWD sleeve sitting in the garage, just waiting to be installed. But I'm worried that I probably have a fair bit of wear on the parts again... and should probably pull a junkyard disconnect and start there instead of trying to jerry rig my own disconnect yet again.

how high can you lift the truck before this becomes an issue?

0.1"... But seriously - these disconnects wear even on non-lifted trucks... it's just that the load on the internal needle bearings increases with a lift, and therefore it just tends to wear out faster and the failure is a little more dramatic.

Nuther dumb question... has anyone every tried putting some gear oil in these instead of the grease? They've got some pretty good seals on both ends. I would think you could drill and tap ahole about the height of the gear centerline and fill it up, and maybe have better lube to the bearings. Or would it leak out past the plunger and into the actuator?

Also, to clarify, are you saying you did move the spring and have been running this for two years, or that you put a socket in there, or both?

Thanks.

[v7guy]

One of the bigger problems is that no oil or grease makes it's way to the passenger side. It's why removing the pass CV is significantly more difficult that removing the drvr side. You can grease it/anti seize it up but it doesn't change that there is no flow of anything to the pass side. Accordingly the oil wouldn't provide near the lube that the grease will as ther is no way to inject oil behind the seals.

The first time the pass side is removed is the first time it has ever been lubed. Additionally the only lube the disconnect and its bearings see lube is the first time you provide it. With frequent maintenance from the enthusiast it becomes a non issue. For everyone else it is a shit design.

you can lock the disconnect in place and it's been fine. The more "enthusiastic" fellas have used the disconnect sleeve for more robustness.

Donny (fishstiks) still had major parts failure at full lock, full throttle, while bouncing up a hill with 35s. Basically using every weak link possible.


If you're this concerned about breakage with your combo I would encourage you to read everything on this forum and then research further through the archives of trailvoy.

[Trail X]

Nuther dumb question... has anyone every tried putting some gear oil in these instead of the grease? They've got some pretty good seals on both ends. I would think you could drill and tap ahole about the height of the gear centerline and fill it up, and maybe have better lube to the bearings. Or would it leak out past the plunger and into the actuator?

The seal on the passenger side is roughly the same design as the driver side. So I don't think you'd have issues of leaking - provided your bearings are in good condition. I had considered doing this before... I was planning to review the condition of my bearings upon my next service - and make a determination then. I think a few "breather" holes drilled between the main cavity and the external bearing cavity could allow it to get oil to the bearings. The fill level would have to be even with the lower lip on the exterior seal.

Also, to clarify, are you saying you did move the spring and have been running this for two years, or that you put a socket in there, or both?

If I remember correctly, the spring will not work - I do not exactly remember why, but I know there was some issue with the plunger surface properly mating with the spring. I just have a slug of steel in there.

Beware, it will throw an 4x4 error light whenever you engage the front wheels because the plunger cannot actuate fully. But it does not affect the operation of the transfer case.

Now that I think about it again - the seemingly best cheap-ass solution might be to use the spring, but put a washer between the spring and the plunger face, so as to fix the aforementioned mating issue.

[The Roadie]

... the seemingly best cheap-ass solution ...

We tend to WORSHIP elegant cheap-ass solutions, because EVERYTHING ELSE seems to be so bloody expensive and we have to save our pennies.

[BWGuy]

The seal on the passenger side is roughly the same design as the driver side. So I don't think you'd have issues of leaking - provided your bearings are in good condition. I had considered doing this before... I was planning to review the condition of my bearings upon my next service - and make a determination then. I think a few "breather" holes drilled between the main cavity and the external bearing cavity could allow it to get oil to the bearings. The fill level would have to be even with the lower lip on the exterior seal.

Now that I think about it again - the seemingly best cheap-ass solution might be to use the spring, but put a washer between the spring and the plunger face, so as to fix the aforementioned mating issue.

I'm feeling kind of chicken to be the first to try the gear oil in the disconnect. If I'd seen horrific destruction in mine due to being lubed with grease for 120,000 miles, I guess I'd more tempted to try something else, but the fact is it looked pretty good in there.

James, I think you're onto something with the spring and washer idea... that's exactly what I was thinking to give the spring a good spot to sit on... maybe even a small Allan bolt and nut through the washer to engage the ID of the spring and make sure it stays where I want it (as opposed to falling over or getting sideways or something). I'm hoping that the spring will be enough to keep the collar engaged (it's enough to keep it dis-engaged), but still allow the actuator plunger to stroke enough to make its switch. Not that it would be the end of the world if it didn't, but I do prefer my dash lights to keep their cool.

Roadie, Fishsticks, James, and V7, you guys are awesome by the way. I've been studying up on various threads regarding off road stuff, and the quality and volume of useful information is just fantastic.