Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

COMPLETED: 4.56's and lockers.

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by fishsticks » Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:01 am

JamesDowning wrote:Cool. From the little I know about setting up gears, those look like decent patches.

What's with the contact patterns at the bottom of the second picture? It looks like there is heavy rubbing near the top land. Or maybe those didn't get painted as heavily?


That's just residual transfer from the pinion. I only painted up 4 teeth or so.
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by Trail X » Tue Oct 05, 2010 12:47 pm

JamesDowning wrote:What's with the contact patterns at the bottom of the second picture? It looks like there is heavy rubbing near the top land. Or maybe those didn't get painted as heavily?


fishsticks wrote:That's just residual transfer from the pinion. I only painted up 4 teeth or so.


Ahhh. Makes sense. :cheers:
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by fishsticks » Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:05 pm

I finally folded today and got out the credit card.

4.56 front gears, a minor install kit and (the proper) 8.6" No-Slip are on their way.

I'm waiting on the front LockRight. Why you ask? I read some horror stories about folks who installed gears and then ripped the front ring gear apart the first time out on the trail. How? They didn't break them in! They assumed since they drove them around and let them cool few times, that they had properly broken in their gears. Well the rears were broken in, but not the fronts! To properly break gears in, they need torque put to them. How do we put torque on the front gears? We drive in 4HI... and for the 500 miles new gears would like, that means running 4HI on pavement.

I'm devoid of long, flat dirt roads out here, so I'm going to be rockin' 4HI on straight highway stretches when I can. I have the advantage of a front disconnect that's welded shut, so I don't have to worry about high speed engagement of the front messing that up. But since the LockRight locks under torque, I REALLY don't want that in there while I'm in 4HI on pavement. I would like to turn if I HAVE to. Plus the stress of both front wheels trying to drive on pavement isn't something I want to test the front suspension with. :safe:

Also... it gives me a little time to build up more money. I don't mind pulling the front diff twice in exchange for my version of peace of mind.

I'm excited to be able to use 4WD again... :excited:
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by irishboy02 » Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:06 pm

So i looked a little more into this front locker. Its designed for the s10 and says 'these units are not recommended for use in high horsepower or large tire applications'. Since we can put down more torque than an s10, and tucking 33s is becoming more common is this unit strong enough to support our wants/needs?
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by fishsticks » Mon Nov 22, 2010 3:34 am

irishboy02 wrote:So i looked a little more into this front locker. Its designed for the s10 and says 'these units are not recommended for use in high horsepower or large tire applications'. Since we can put down more torque than an s10, and tucking 33s is becoming more common is this unit strong enough to support our wants/needs?



That's a rubberstamp warning they put on all LockRights.

The issue I'm a little worried about is the fact that our diff housings are aluminum. Our aluminum ones have way more webbing than even the iron S10 ones though so I dunno.

I'm out of mod money for the year so a front locker is on hold for me. I still need to put my front gears in too. :?
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
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by DmccartneyFF2TB » Mon Nov 22, 2010 8:33 am

fishsticks wrote:
irishboy02 wrote:So i looked a little more into this front locker. Its designed for the s10 and says 'these units are not recommended for use in high horsepower or large tire applications'. Since we can put down more torque than an s10, and tucking 33s is becoming more common is this unit strong enough to support our wants/needs?



That's a rubberstamp warning they put on all LockRights.

The issue I'm a little worried about is the fact that our diff housings are aluminum. Our aluminum ones have way more webbing than even the iron S10 ones though so I dunno.

I'm out of mod money for the year so a front locker is on hold for me. I still need to put my front gears in too. :?





HEHEHE I thinks so funny me and jansey86 wheeled yesterday and your name was brought up a lot about the lockers and what not. Im hoping it works out good i would really like to see the outcome. I :excited: f it works out good it is well worth all the money.
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by janesy86 » Mon Dec 06, 2010 2:58 pm

Hey fish, how you liking the No-slip so far?

I think when I got this route I might be leaning on this locker...
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by fishsticks » Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:50 pm

I love it. "It just works."

Whereas the G80 stays unlocked until wheelspin is detected, the No-Slip is always locked until you enter a turn. So in low traction situations there's no engagement time, you just go. There's a certain confidence that comes with knowing I have about 1/4 of the moving parts that a G80 does and that I don't have to "baby it" until it engages.

There are two things you have to get used to:

One is that there is a little more backlash in the diff assembly since the cross shaft seating is what forces the engagement of the teeth. After awhile you stop noticing though.

The second is that the No-Slip relies on the outside wheel spinning faster than the inside wheel to unlock in a turn. On dry pavement you'd never know the difference from stock. On wet pavement, sometimes making a sharp turn from a stop causes the inside wheel to scrub a little and you'll feel the diff lock back up. It just gives you a little bump.

I'm really debating putting off the front gear install altogether until I can afford the lockright.
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
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by DmccartneyFF2TB » Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:58 pm

fishsticks wrote:I love it. "It just works."

Whereas the G80 stays unlocked until wheelspin is detected, the No-Slip is always locked until you enter a turn. So in low traction situations there's no engagement time, you just go. There's a certain confidence that comes with knowing I have about 1/4 of the moving parts that a G80 does and that I don't have to "baby it" until it engages.

There are two things you have to get used to:

One is that there is a little more backlash in the diff assembly since the cross shaft seating is what forces the engagement of the teeth. After awhile you stop noticing though.

The second is that the No-Slip relies on the outside wheel spinning faster than the inside wheel to unlock in a turn. On dry pavement you'd never know the difference from stock. On wet pavement, sometimes making a sharp turn from a stop causes the inside wheel to scrub a little and you'll feel the diff lock back up. It just gives you a little bump.

I'm really debating putting off the front gear install altogether until I can afford the lockright.






:poke: Front locker....... soon soon :viking:
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by Jon A » Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:56 am

fishsticks wrote:On wet pavement, sometimes making a sharp turn from a stop causes the inside wheel to scrub a little and you'll feel the diff lock back up.

Have you tried it on icy roads yet? I'm getting tired of the G80 myself but I'm thinking a "real" locker (if I swapped rears) might be a bit much (especially for my wife) on icy roads. I'm getting really close to ordering a Truetrac.
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by fishsticks » Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:35 am

Jon A wrote:
fishsticks wrote:On wet pavement, sometimes making a sharp turn from a stop causes the inside wheel to scrub a little and you'll feel the diff lock back up.

Have you tried it on icy roads yet? I'm getting tired of the G80 myself but I'm thinking a "real" locker (if I swapped rears) might be a bit much (especially for my wife) on icy roads. I'm getting really close to ordering a Truetrac.


We had some light ice a couple weeks ago. The truck was very predictable. The engagement I mentioned is noticeable, but I wouldn't consider it harsh at all. It's no worse than the sudden engagement a G80 can do.

I knew I wanted a locker, but I didn't want electronics or vacuum lines (more points of failure). Knowing I was already doing gears I considered a Detroit. I'm totally happy with the No-Slip though, plus I got a good deal. :) Without gear setup it's quite literally a 15 minute install. Just remember to get a rear axle with an open diff if you want one.
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by janesy86 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:38 am

Awesome to hear! I'm trying to make this my next mod/project over the winter. Will most likely just stick to my current ratio for now to make it a simple install, and then gears down the road once I can build up some $$ for a proper install (I wouldn't have the confidence myself).

And at least having to buy an open diff makes it easier and cheaper to get a 8.6" rear...
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by Jon A » Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:28 pm

So has anybody successfully put any aftermarket diff in the front of these yet? Randy's is listing basically everything for the H3 as compatible: http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.asp ... &DiffID=40 . Of course they also list early years as having a different diff all together http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.aspx ... Side=Front so I'm not sure how reliable their data is.
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by fishsticks » Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:53 pm

Jon A wrote:So has anybody successfully put any aftermarket diff in the front of these yet? Randy's is listing basically everything for the H3 as compatible: http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.asp ... &DiffID=40 . Of course they also list early years as having a different diff all together http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffList.aspx ... Side=Front so I'm not sure how reliable their data is.



We actually have a 7.2" front diff with a reverse cut ring gear,`just like the S10s. Our housings are different but the carriers are the same.

So far the only thing I've found that will fit is a LockRight. Part 1935.

These guys have it the cheapest that I could find: http://www.rocky-road.com/lockright.html
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by The Roadie » Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:00 pm

Only the H3 Alpha and H3T got the cast iron housing, and it won't bolt up to our oil pan.

Randy's data has been wrong for over two years, and they know it. I've given up on them.

Best of my knowledge, Colorado, Canyon, and GMT360s use a 7.25" front ring gear, the AAM725.

H3 were 7.6" AAM760, but there was a LOT of misinformation being published around 2006-7.
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by Jon A » Tue Dec 07, 2010 5:57 pm

Oh, really? Shows what I know. :( So all years of Trailblazer did use the same front diff, just not the one I thought? Bummer, there goes my Truetrac or e-locker in the front fantasy....
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by janesy86 » Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:36 pm

Yea, it really sucks, as I would rather have something selectable, over a Lockrite up front. But if thats our only option I'll live with it.
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by DmccartneyFF2TB » Tue Dec 07, 2010 9:19 pm

I wish i could understand this more i really need to get on top of this...... :wallbash:
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by janesy86 » Thu Dec 09, 2010 9:05 am

What aren't you understanding? We can try to clear it up, just don't want to :hijack:


I think what my plans are for the winter/ early spring is to get a 8.6" rear with my gearing and no G80. Throw a No-Slip in there so I can have that done easily by myself and have a true locker...

Then in late summer/fall have shop swap my gears for 4.56's and while theyr'e at it throw a Lock-rite in up front.
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by DmccartneyFF2TB » Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:56 pm

Just gearing i understand what i need to get from our other thread but a lot of numbers flying around. Soon i will be getting an axle and getting on top of the locker.
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