Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Battery recommendations?

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by Zero » Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:49 pm

Like James has brought up about Lithium, I wonder now, are there any batteries out there on the market that are reliable and that may be a totally different technology then the standard truck batt?

Is there another option out there I am un aware of?

What about AGM, or Gell cell? Is the "Bat Cap" a good product?
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by teebes » Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:56 pm

Zero wrote:Like James has brought up about Lithium, I wonder now, are there any batteries out there on the market that are reliable and that may be a totally different technology then the standard truck batt?

Is there another option out there I am un aware of?

What about AGM, or Gell cell? Is the "Bat Cap" a good product?


Yes, optima/odyssey are AGM: http://www.odysseyfactory.com/batteries.html
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by Trail X » Mon Jan 11, 2010 2:53 pm

I guess I wasn't clear on that, the DieHard Platinum are absorbent glass mat (AGM) along with the Odyssey and Optimas.

For those that don't know, AGM is a type of lead-acid battery. It's a different construction means it can be sealed, can be mounted in any orientation, allows purer lead to be used (higher capacity), has higher starting currents, and has a slower discharge rate. Due to the purer lead and assembly methods, they generally cost twice that of a conventional battery.

Anyone ever seen a NIMH car batt? I don't think they require special charging controllers... but I could be wrong. I know they were used on the old Chevy EV1.
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by Zero » Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:49 pm

Does anyone have any input on "Deca" batteries?
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by KE7WOX » Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:56 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I guess I wasn't clear on that, the DieHard Platinum are absorbent glass mat (AGM) along with the Odyssey and Optimas.

For those that don't know, AGM is a type of lead-acid battery. It's a different construction means it can be sealed, can be mounted in any orientation, allows purer lead to be used (higher capacity), has higher starting currents, and has a slower discharge rate. Due to the purer lead and assembly methods, they generally cost twice that of a conventional battery.

Anyone ever seen a NIMH car batt? I don't think they require special charging controllers... but I could be wrong. I know they were used on the old Chevy EV1.


The thing about NiMHs is that their self discharge is high (unless you get a low self discharge battery which has a lower capacity), they have a limited life and their capacity decreases significantly over time.
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by Doratus » Fri Jan 15, 2010 4:05 pm

So......what is the conclusion to this post then???

OP, which battery did you end up getting?

I'm going to replace my battery today and I'm about to pull my hair out with stress. DieHard platinum has reviews of post failure, optima has reviews of poor quality control, and somewhere someone told me to steer clear of interstate. So what does that leave me with?!?!?

Do I have to just guess which one will work and which will fail?
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by KE7WOX » Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:31 pm

Well, my battery worked fine, so I still have the old one.

When I get a new one, it'll probably be a Die Hard just because of the warranty.
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by Doratus » Fri Jan 15, 2010 7:23 pm

KE7WOX wrote:Well, my battery worked fine, so I still have the old one.

When I get a new one, it'll probably be a Die Hard just because of the warranty.


My last battery was an Interstate and it lasted me about 6 years. So I just went with another Interstate. I got the 800 cold cranking amps with 85 month warranty for $135.00 without install from the manufacturer at a retail center. The install wasn't too bad at all. In hindsight I should have taken pics and written a tutorial. Saved me about $15. :coffee:

Anyway you just take off the single plastic cover that runs across the top of both headlight assemblies, then take off the bar that holds the battery in place. Take the keys completely out of the ignition, just for fun. Now remove the negative/black lead, then remove the positive/red. There is one last bolt holding a rubber or plastic lip which also holds the battery in place. Now just put in the new battery and do everything in reverse order. If it makes you feel better you can wear gloves but I was able to do it with a metal ratchet and bare hands. I would say wearing eye protection would be ideal.

BTW I'm sure most of you know this, or at least could figure it out on your own. I just wanted to post something for the sake of reference.
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by Zero » Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:46 pm

Im leaning towards Odessy, or Die Hard
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by EwingJK » Sat Jan 16, 2010 8:37 am

I had to replace my AC Delco battery today. The original AC Delco lasted five years. The one I just replaced lasted a little over two years (860 cranking amps). It started getting weak a few days ago and yesterday it died completely. The doors wouldn't even unlock. I got a jump this morning and by time I got to a parts house for the replacement, the sides were bulging quite a bit and it was pumping out hydrogen gas like crazy. The replacement is a BES1FIT 610 cranking made in Korea. I found it after stopping at three service station. The price was $102.12 and I had to change it out. The battery I replaced was $154.00 two years ago. I wanted to buy a better quality battery, but when your desparate, you take what you can find.

One thing that really irritated me was the fact that you have to disconnect the battery before you can remove the battery cover. I took care of that little issue when I installed the new battery.
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by Zero » Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:11 am

My battery is also around 5 years old, so I will be grabbing a new one at some point and using the stock one for the back up batt. Seems to be pretty good still. But Id like to get one with a high CCA, and that has a longer discharge rate for when I am camping.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:18 am

Zero wrote:My battery is also around 5 years old, so I will be grabbing a new one at some point and using the stock one for the back up batt. Seems to be pretty good still. But Id like to get one with a high CCA, and that has a longer discharge rate for when I am camping.


Yeah, I temporarily stuck my stock batt into my rear battery location... it barely charges one of my dewalt 18V batteries before hitting the low battery warning on the inverter.
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by Zero » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:20 am

JamesDowning wrote: it barely charges one of my dewalt 18V batteries before hitting the low battery warning on the inverter.



That sucks! Its almost not even worth putting it back there lol ! O well it will have to do until I can afford 2x Odessy batteries. Im gona need it if I end up installing on board air, aux lights, electric cooler, and some more stereo upgrades. I think the alternator is gona have to be pumped up a bit too at some point.


A side note. Has anyone got the ground cable kit from pcmforless? Any thoughts?
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by Gordinho80 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:25 am

I have the DieHard battery and I'm loving it. Had the stock battery for about 5 years. It seemed fine, then one day, BAM!

In regards to the grounding kit, I made my own using a How-To on the OS. If you can get wiring and o-ring terminals in that size, its easy to just make your own.
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by Zero » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:27 am

Thats probably what Ill do. Ill take a look at the OS for the how-to. Did you increase the gauge of your new ground cable?
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by Gordinho80 » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:35 am

I used 4 AWG wire. I can't really tell a difference, to be honest.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 20, 2010 11:52 am

One thing I do notice now that I have 2 batteries, is that before the second batt kicks in, I still get the random dimming of the headlights. However once the rear kicks on, no more headlight dimming.

One of the fringe benefits I guess.
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by Trail X » Fri Feb 12, 2010 5:13 pm

Just ran across this... pretty cool.

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by bartonmd » Fri Feb 12, 2010 5:33 pm

Eh, my most recent battery purchase was for my '90 Cummins W250... It's a Napa Commercial Group 31 battery with 1150 CCA (yes, 1150 COLD cranking amps)... It's a B-E-A-S-T!

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by KE7WOX » Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:04 am

Update.

My battery died while I was away on spring break (1 week, with below freezing temps for 1 or 2 nights only), so when I got back a couple of weeks ago I decided it was enough and got the DieHard Platinum. The people at Sears tested my old battery and concluded it was dead. It was an ACDelco (so probably the factory one) and it was already bulging on the sides. Paid $216 or so for the battery, including tax and installation (they kept the old one).
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