Difference between Standard and Heavy Duty....

[Cable810]

I Just ordered some Pro comp 6" 100w lights and now need to get some wiring for them. Pro Comp has some wiring kits that I'm looking at. I'm at a loss cause one is heavy duty and the other is standard duty. Is there a Difference between Standard and Heavy Duty wiring kits for off-road lights?

[bartonmd]

I think one is more heavy duty than the other... Or maybe one is more standard duty than the other? I can never remember!

Mike

[jonbo2002]

[jonbo2002]

my guess would either be heavier guage or better insulation on the heavy duty

[Cable810]

I think one is more heavy duty than the other... Or maybe one is more standard duty than the other? I can never remember!

Mike

You got me... Either way I should be fine for 100w lights?? When it comes to anything electrical I don't know crap. I know y'all are laughing at this I just know it

[bartonmd]

I think one is more heavy duty than the other... Or maybe one is more standard duty than the other? I can never remember!

Mike

You got me... Either way I should be fine for 100w lights?? When it comes to anything electrical I don't know crap. I know y'all are laughing at this I just know it

There is no wire gauge spec for "heavy duty". Some of the stuff we do at work (at my real job), a light duty wire would be a 3/0, and a continuous duty would be a 4/0.

In order to tell you what it is capable of, we'd need wire gauge (AWG), switch current spec, and number of 100W lights (you said "some," Don't know if you meant a pair for the front, or 6 for the roof).

MIke

[navigator]

post some links to what you are looking at.

[bartonmd]

This one? http://www.procompusa.com/prodDetail.as ... &plID=1875

They don't say anything about wire gauge or amperage or anything?

Mike

[navigator]

I think I would build my own. It will allow you to pick out what gauge and color wire you are using and pick out the switches you want. I think James has a great write up on here with most of the info you need. Lay out your parts list and you know you'll get great feedback.

[TBYODA]

I know that there is no awg rating, but if the by the picture is what you get looks too small for 100 w, looks like cheap crap. IMHO.

[Cable810]

I got 2, 6" 100w. Mike, I was looking at that one and the 9301 kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-9301

and the one you linked too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-9300

[bartonmd]

I agree with Chris and Robert. Looks like 16ga wire, to me...

Mike

[TBYODA]

Just get some 10 or maybe 12 awg (10 awg could be over kill ) best type is Teflon coated, I don't recall the other type that is normally talked about. Don't use the rubber coated wire (melts easy), if you get short or over heat it the whole hardness and maybe your rig will go up in flames.

To give you a example if you were to use 16 gauge with two 100w lights, 16 gauge max current is 22 amp. Watts = volts * amp, so 12* 22 = 264 watts. That wire is just on edge and it would work but no safety margin, plus I am not taking in to account all the other connections in your lighting system, thus lowering the total wattage handing of the harness. Jump up two gauge's to 12 and you get a max current of 41 amps or 492 watts. Since the wire to the lights is the longest run you want to double or maybe triple the gauge. This way you won't see any dimming going on. Also use some dielectric grease on the mechanical connections will help stop any connection from corroding. If you want a really good system solder everything, only down side is no trail repairs.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... -diagrams/

[RyansTBLS]

Personally I would just buy the wire too. Every time I would use one of the kits, I end up needing extra wire which then made for an extra connection. It also cleans up nicer when you can cut wires to the exact length.

[Cable810]

So in a nutshell I'd be ok with 12awg wire, just for the 2 lights? Sorry but this crap is confusing for me

[TBYODA]

So in a nutshell I'd be ok with 12awg wire, just for the 2 lights? Sorry but this crap is confusing for me

Hey don't worry about it, that is why it is good post a question. We have a great community here. Not everyone has to have a back ground in electronics/electricity. I have been working around this stuff for the pass 23+ years, so old hat.

Yes, you will be good. If you ever want to add more lights you need just add another run and relay. Better option that way gives you more control.

Here is a handy item that might help you get your head around it, Some basic ohm's law theory links if your are so inclined.

Ohms-Law-Formula-Wheel.png (8.19 KiB) Viewed 12503 times

http://www.hamuniverse.com/ohmslaw.html

http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-dielectric-grease.htm

[JorDaneeKey]

And in-line fuse is never a bad idea either. We've got them in our roof light bar, HID driving lights, and the headlights/HIDS/LEDS/Halos. And I believe we're running 12 and 10 gauge, depending on the power draw (we tend to run on the side of caution when doing our own work). Never had an issue, and the fuse ensures that if you do something wrong, you won't burn down your rig (like the time the cheap Chinese relay caught fire under the hood on ours).

[navigator]

and for your fuse, you want it to be less amp than your wire.
so if your 12 ga wire will handle 41 amps, you need a fuse less than that to make it the weak link.
You also want the fuse to be greater than your lights (22amp). I would likely run a 30 amp fuse in you situation.
Make sure to grab a few spare fuses as well.

[Cable810]

Awesome guys!!! Looks like I'll be spending more money!

[Cable810]

Would speaker wire work? Cause a lot of the results I'm getting are speaker wire.

Here is a list:
12 Awg wire
A Switch
A Relay
Something for fuse

Anything else I'm forgetting?