Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Ignition on only 12v socket/cigarette lighter?

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by flap00 » Mon May 13, 2013 10:45 pm

My TB has 2 12v outlets, right next to each other in the front under the hvac controls (not counting the one behind the center console facing the 2nd row seats). They have different type covers, so I assumed that one was added later..? I also had hoped that one of them only got power when the key was turned.

What's the best and easiest way to wire one of these front outlets to only power up when the radio is on? Ideally (but not completely necessarily)....I'd really like it to work like the Bose stereo, so that when you take the key out, it stays powered until you open a door.

I have a 4-way that I plug into one of the outlets, that powers my satellite radio, GPS, radar, and cell charger....and I have to remember to plug and unplug it every time I get in or out. I would really like to have the satellite radio come on and stay on whenever the stereo is.

Thanks in advance! :)
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by ErikSS » Mon May 13, 2013 11:04 pm

Do you have a stock radio or aftermarket?
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by dvanbramer88 » Mon May 13, 2013 11:07 pm

Why do you have to unplug it every time? I leave my cell charger and GPS plugged in all the time and never had a battery drain issue. My dads truck with cell charger and GPS plugged in sits for days at a time and never had a battery drain issue either.

I've even left my CB on overnight and never had a problem.


Generally speaking, the best way to wire it to only be on when the key is on, would be to take the additional outlet and wire it to a fuse or power source that only has power when the key is on. You could wire it to the radio fuse with one of those add-a-fuse piggy back wires and have a fuse for the cig lighter outlet inline.
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by darring70 » Tue May 14, 2013 12:04 am

dvanbramer88 wrote:Why do you have to unplug it every time? I leave my cell charger and GPS plugged in all the time and never had a battery drain issue. My dads truck with cell charger and GPS plugged in sits for days at a time and never had a battery drain issue either.


Me too, never had a problem with my battery

If you have an aftermarket radio what you should do is find the blue wire (remote) from the stereo, disconnect the power line (positive) that goes to the cigarette lighter and connect the blue one.
Just remember, the cigarette lighter will work only when the stereo is on and the amp's will not be the same
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by flap00 » Tue May 14, 2013 2:47 am

As I said in the original post, mine has the Bose stereo. What I need to know is, where is the best place in the truck to tap into?....a particular extra circuit or certain colored wire, and where? And is that second outlet I have stock or aftermarket add on?
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by darring70 » Tue May 14, 2013 5:15 am

Two outlets are stock, at least on my TB, is a 2002 one is just an outlet with the cover and the other one is a cigarette lighter and it came with that little piece to light up the cigarettes
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by navigator » Tue May 14, 2013 7:25 am

I have an 06 also and 2 came in mine stock.
I'm not sure if one of them is key switched or not. I always unplug my GPS after I use it.
It should be pretty easy to check if one is key switched or always powered.
I almost think the one on the passenger side is always powered and the one on the driver side is key switched.
I never use the one on the driver side because it is right behind the shifter.
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

flap00 wrote: What I need to know is, where is the best place in the truck to tap into?....a particular extra circuit or certain colored wire, and where? And is that second outlet I have stock or aftermarket add on?


I bet nobody here has done it, so we can't tell you the "best" place to tap into. You can literally tap into any circuit that has enough rating to properly power the cig lighter. Assuming the cig lighter has a 15A fuse, Any 15A or higher circuit would be acceptable. You can tap into any 15A or higher circuit and than add an inline fuse for the cig lighter. There are a ton of circuits in the truck that only have power when the key is on. If you have a fuse for accessory; use that one. If not, the radio is a close second (pending the amperage on the circuit, IDK what the fuse for a TB radio is)

On my truck, in the under-hood fuse/relay center, there are two positive posts. One has a diode and only has power with the key, the other is always hot. Those would be the "best" place; but I'm not sure if the TB has something similar.

What I can tell you for certain:

-Add an inline fuse for the cig lighter after you tap into another circuit, regardless of the circuit you tap into.
-Know for certain the cig lighter circuit's fuse size and do not tap into a circuit with a smaller amp rating.


The rest, you'll have to figure out yourself, there is no universal "best."

Good luck; YMMV
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by fishsticks » Tue May 14, 2013 1:16 pm

flap00 wrote:As I said in the original post, mine has the Bose stereo. What I need to know is, where is the best place in the truck to tap into?....a particular extra circuit or certain colored wire, and where? And is that second outlet I have stock or aftermarket add on?


My TB had two front outlets as well. One is meant to be a cigarette lighter.

There is a wire coming from the Bose deck that signals the rear amp to turn on. The color varies by year and I don't have my charts anymore. I would find and tap that wire to trigger a relay to energize one of your power plugs. This will allow it to turn on with the key and also use the retained power function you're after.

Note that if you power your stereo off, this configuration will also turn off that plug.
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by Trail X » Tue May 14, 2013 4:22 pm

Yeah, don't grab the power from the radio fuse, it doesn't turn off.

If you want to just use an add-a-fuse, you can go off of the HVAC fuse in the rear. It's switched with the key though - and does not have the door-open delay built in.

What Donny said sounds better, if there is indeed a signal lead for a rear amp. Where's the rear amp Donny? Inside one of the rear quarters?
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by The Roadie » Tue May 14, 2013 5:45 pm

http://gmtnation.com/f23/battery-positi ... ower-2037/

My post 4.

RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:

White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:

Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START


If you go after the fuse block path:

On in RUN/ACCY modes only:

rear fuse #29 - Rain sensor (rare option) 10A
rear #33 - front wiper motor - 25A
rear #31 - TBC ACC - 3A

ACCY, RUN, and START:

rear fuses 47 (IGN 0)
50 (TBC IG)

RUN only mode:

front fuses 22 (IGN E)
16 (TBC IGN 1)
27 (BACKUP)
28 (PCM 1)
54 (AIR SOL)
53 (O2 A
54 (O2 B)
26 (ENG 1)
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue May 14, 2013 5:46 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Yeah, don't grab the power from the radio fuse, it doesn't turn off.



In my truck it does. I guess TB's are different?


I got power for my trans temp gauge from the radio fuse and it turns on and off with the key like it's supposed to.
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by Wahugg » Tue May 14, 2013 6:13 pm

I could be wrong, but....

Our radios have constant power, and are commanded on/off by the BCM. That's how we have RAP after the key is in the off position.

-Wahugg

EDIT:

A fuse in the rear fuse box that is switched on/off with the key is the Rain Sense Wiper fuse. That's where the power signal for my roofrack light relay is located.
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by flap00 » Thu May 16, 2013 12:25 am

Now we're talkin'! Thanks a bunch, guys! I'll let you know how I make out when I get a chance to tackle this project...hopefully in the next week or two. I'm thinking I'll probably add a whole new 12v socket and mount/install it somewhere convenient, rather than disturb any of the existing ones.
Thanks,
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by fishsticks » Thu May 16, 2013 2:07 am

JamesDowning wrote:Where's the rear amp Donny? Inside one of the rear quarters?


Passenger side rear quarter. GREAT place to mount an inverter or smallish air compressor. Then just cut a hole inside the storage compartment to access it.
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by Trail X » Fri May 17, 2013 12:43 pm

Yeah, that's basically where my air compressor is. I remember seeing the amp back there when I installed it, but I honestly wasn't sure if that was an amp or something related to onstar.
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by Conner299 » Fri May 17, 2013 3:51 pm

flap00 wrote:I have a 4-way that I plug into one of the outlets, that powers my satellite radio, GPS, radar, and cell charger....
Thanks in advance! :)


Why not just find the hard wiring kits for most of those accessories, and regain use of your cup holders. That adaptor has to take up a bunch of room. Not to mention getting rid of all that black spaghetti, running everywhere
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by The Roadie » Fri May 17, 2013 8:15 pm

Conner299 wrote:Not to mention getting rid of all that black spaghetti, running everywhere
Don't be disrespecting the black spaghetti cockpit "look". :finger:

Image
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by Conner299 » Fri May 17, 2013 10:15 pm

HA! That picture is literally the inspiration for the hard wiring I've done.That, and my own personal experiences of frustration with the dreaded "Black Spaghetti".
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by The Roadie » Fri May 17, 2013 11:01 pm

But I've shown that spaghetti a few epic sights....:eek:
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