Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Power Inverter recomendations???

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by BradAllen » Sun Nov 10, 2013 8:26 am

jonbo2002 wrote:
navigator wrote:I was reading one of the reviews for an inverter on Amazon and the reviewer mentions most models only have a 1-2 second of surge where this version has about 10 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-1600 ... r+inverter

I have the 1200w version of this and haven't had a single problem with it. we used to use it to power our old camper on our property where we have no line power. I haven't set it up on the new one yet seeing as that it can run completely 12v we will be setting it up sometime though with a couple deep cycle batteries and solar panel.

Hello friend sorry for old thread reply but have you completed the set up with deep cycle batteries and solar panels? Waiting for reply thanks in advance:)
Last edited by BradAllen on Mon Nov 11, 2013 11:48 am, edited 2 times in total.
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by Grimor » Sun Nov 10, 2013 9:01 am

for things like charging a cell phone (and maybe even the fan) just using the 12v in the vehicle is often better. why go from 12v DC to 110vac just to go back down to 5vdc....
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by jonbo2002 » Mon Nov 11, 2013 8:12 am

BradAllen wrote:
jonbo2002 wrote:
navigator wrote:I was reading one of the reviews for an inverter on Amazon and the reviewer mentions most models only have a 1-2 second of surge where this version has about 10 seconds.

http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-1600 ... r+inverter

I have the 1200w version of this and haven't had a single problem with it. we used to use it to power our old camper on our property where we have no line power. I haven't set it up on the new one yet seeing as that it can run completely 12v we will be setting it up sometime though with a couple deep cycle batteries and solar panels.

Hello friend sorry for old thread reply but have you completed the set up with deep cycle batteries and solar panels? Waiting for reply thanks in advance:)


well like I stated in my last post my whistler blew a fuse and they are inside soldered to the board. I now have a Xantrax but with my 2 deep cycle batteries we haven't had to use the solar panels, we just haven't stayed up there long enough to need to charge the batteries. Most of my travel trailer runs off 12v we just use the inverter to pump up our air mattress and charge the computer when we are stuck inside watching movies. If we are able to get up there for a week in April we will probably need to use the solar panels but with the new house we might not go this year.
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by Shdwdrgn » Tue Mar 18, 2014 3:38 pm

Regarding fuses... if they are a 12V fuse, you might check the automotive store. I've picked up auto-reset circuit breakers for under $5 that fit different common fuse types, you might find one that would work for soldering back to the board?

This thread has me thinking again about getting my inverter hooked up. Got the 750W from HarborFreight, figured it would work nicely off that 125A line feeding to the back fuse box. I need to test it out and see how hot it gets, because I'd like to be able to put it under the rear seat where the OnStar box used to be. I guess worst-case I would just have to remember to tip the seat up before I used it.
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by BowTide » Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:38 pm

I used to drive OTR and had the Cobra 1575........ hardwired 3 feet away from the battery box in the sleeper of my tractor with 2 gauge wire. I ran my microwave, fridge, coffee pot, TV, X-box etc.
This is one of those times bigger IS better, the more capacity your inverter has, the cooler it will run and longer it will last in my experience.
The fans seem to be the most fail prone part (causing the inverter to grenade) friend of mine replaced (well really stacked it on top of the dead one) the failed fan with a computer fan.
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by Shdwdrgn » Fri Aug 22, 2014 2:55 pm

Continuing this discussion... Based on some charts I've been seeing, 8ga wire does not seem to be appropriate for an actual 125A draw, especially for a power inverter. I bought a length of 6ga wire to directly wire my inverter from the battery, but now I'm thinking... Would it be more useful to run the dedicated line (with its own 80A fuse) direct from the battery, or would I be better off tying the 6ga wire to the existing 8ga wire on the 125A line (basically connecting it to the mega-fuse, and to the large lug in the rear fuse block) so that wiring is better suited for carrying the load of my roof lights and potentially a trailer?

There would be no difference in how I route the new wire, it's just a question of where I tie it off to.
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by Trail X » Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:12 pm

So, you're just wondering if you should also run the new 6GA line to the existing rear +12V stud? I see no need. Just pull your other power as needed from the stud on the back of the inverter.
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by Shdwdrgn » Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:27 pm

Not *also*... this would be an either/or. I can either run the new line directly between the battery and the inverter, OR I can double up the existing 125A line with the new 6ga wire.

And if I only run the new wire directly to the inverter, where would be a good place to tap in to the battery under the hood? Could I attach to one side of the existing megafuse (I assume one side of it connects directly to the battery already)? If I use this path, I would attach my 80A breaker to the side of the fuse box for easy access to reset it as needed.
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by Trail X » Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:38 pm

Why not go straight to the battery or alternator? There is a feed pole on the fuse box though, if you want to use it.

I'd run the new line directly to the inverter and use it as a secondary power pull point for your other auxiliary wiring projects.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:01 pm

New wiring is done. I ended up screwing the breaker to the inside of the fender beside the fuse box. The initial run comes from the driver's side of the mega-fuse, which is the lead that goes directly to the battery. An 80amp breaker seems about right for controlling the load -- I plugged in my heat gun (rated at 1200W) and it ran on high for about 30 seconds before the breaker popped. The wires did not feel like they had warmed up at all, so it's probable I could safely run a 100amp breaker, but I think this will be fine for now. I also tested with my hand-held belt sander, rated at 5.6amps, and gave it a good load on some scrap wood. I ran it for a couple minutes without any problems.

So... I have juice, I have solid wires to provide it, and I have a manual-reset breaker to protect it. happyhappjoyjoy
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by Opeth » Sat Aug 23, 2014 10:55 pm

I have a Cobra CPI 1500w inverter in my work truck, and bought the cobra inverter wiring kit for it as well. The wire kit I believe was a 4ga. I used a 120amp inline fuse and never had an issue popping fuses or breakers. I've run a 700w microwave at the same time as my DVD player and 28" flat screen.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:32 pm

What I'm really having trouble wrapping my head around is the differences in wire gauge. You figure standard house wiring -- 14ga romex is rated for a 15A circuit; 12ga is rated for a 20A circuit. So even considering some conversion losses, if the inverter only puts out 12.5A then why do we need to go to such a large wire to feed it from the 12V side? Yes there are more losses to wire resistance on the DC side, but we're only talking about 15 feet of wire. I must be missing something...
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by BigBen » Sun Aug 24, 2014 1:23 am

Because 1500 watts ac would need a dc draw of about 120a at 100% efficiency.

110v*13.6a =1500 watts
1500 watts / 12.6v = 119a draw from the batteries.

Drop efficiency to 75% and you'd need 159a dc.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Aug 24, 2014 1:49 am

OK you kicked my memory, now I think I see where I screwed up... I was thinking in more simple terms: 1500W = 1500W, regardless if you are talking 12.5A @ 120V or 125A @ 12V. But I forgot that amperage, not wattage, is what dictates the size of the wire.
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by TBYODA » Sun Aug 24, 2014 9:39 am

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by Trail X » Mon Aug 25, 2014 1:03 pm

Shdwdrgn wrote:OK you kicked my memory, now I think I see where I screwed up... I was thinking in more simple terms: 1500W = 1500W, regardless if you are talking 12.5A @ 120V or 125A @ 12V. But I forgot that amperage, not wattage, is what dictates the size of the wire.


That's also why we can run a whole city off of half a million volts through transmission power lines that are only 4 or so inches in diameter.
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by v7guy » Mon Aug 25, 2014 1:22 pm

Trail X wrote:
Shdwdrgn wrote:OK you kicked my memory, now I think I see where I screwed up... I was thinking in more simple terms: 1500W = 1500W, regardless if you are talking 12.5A @ 120V or 125A @ 12V. But I forgot that amperage, not wattage, is what dictates the size of the wire.


That's also why we can run a whole city off of half a million volts through transmission power lines that are only 4 or so inches in diameter.



They do make a special cackle doing it. Kinda nice in the middle of a night with a nice fire going.
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by Shdwdrgn » Mon Aug 25, 2014 1:29 pm

We have some high-tension lines running through town a few blocks away. You can hear them sizzle when it's foggy out. And if you follow them outside of town at night, you can see areas where the insulation is thinner because there's a near-ultraviolet glow in those spots.
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by Moots1288 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 12:30 pm

Trail X wrote:
Shdwdrgn wrote:OK you kicked my memory, now I think I see where I screwed up... I was thinking in more simple terms: 1500W = 1500W, regardless if you are talking 12.5A @ 120V or 125A @ 12V. But I forgot that amperage, not wattage, is what dictates the size of the wire.


That's also why we can run a whole city off of half a million volts through transmission power lines that are only 4 or so inches in diameter.

And that's why we have transformers constantly blowing up in the city :)
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by Speed » Thu Nov 06, 2014 12:10 am

FWIW, I picked up a couple of the Harbor Freight 750/1500 watt inverters when they were running a special. They were on sale for 47 bucks and then added a 25% off coupon so it ended up being like 35 bucks before tax. I ran it off the battery in the trailblazer and cut some 1/2in plywood with my circular saw with no issues. Liked it enough that I bought an extra one and one of the 400 watt versions to play with.

They are modified sinewave inverters (as are all of the cheaper ones) which carries its own set of issues causing a little extra stress on inductive loads like transformers (wall wart or brick transformers like those on laptops or other chargers or AC motors) but it shouldn't make any difference for the limited camping style use in a trailblazer. If you wanted to spend a little more, there is a guy on ebay does inverter tests and reviews with good techinical evaluation. He recommended the OSP Tigerclaw 1500/3000 watt inverter which is a pure sinewave unit so it will run all AC loads. One thing to consider is at 12 volts, you will be pulling 125 amps at 1500 and peaks of up to 250 amps at 3000 watts. If you really really really want to run that kind of power (or even the 750 on the HF inverter), I would recommend a second battery in the back or putting the inverter up front.
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