Efan with custom (On/Auto/Off) switch.

[johnburgelin]

I decided to get and Efan, I know that it doesn't work for everyone but I think it will for me. It is an LS1 fan out of a WS6 trans am with new motors. It uses the newer Flex-a-lite controller, and requires either a bypass or a custom tune to turn off the SES light. It was an easy install following the instructions on the TV forums. It all hooked right up using the ground by the battery on the fender wall, the positive post on the fuse box, and the ignition fuse in the fuse box via a fuse tap for an ignition signal. Additionally I spliced into the red wire on the AC compressor. It has worked well cooling my truck in the very hot (100+) temps we've been having here in St. Louis, for the past several weeks.
The Flex-a-lite controller allows for an override, fan off, and, fan on, switch to be connected. This is a flex-a-lite part which operates off the ground or negative side of the battery. More or less this means if you ground out the pin on the controller the fan will either turn on at 100% ( for overheating conditions) or turn the fan off (for water crossings, etc) Flex-a-lite sells a switch most likely for some god-awful amout, but I decided to use a DPDT (double pole-double throw) switch so I could have both functions, override on and off) with one switch and still have the auto functions of the controller as well. The way my DPDT switch works is it has on-off-on positions. It has a total of six connections but only three are required. I connected the ground to the middle screw, either side it's not important, and I connected the override on to the same side on the bottom screw and the override off to the same side on the top screw. When the switch is flipped up it connects the ground to the bottom wire and when it is flipped down it grounds out the top wire. When the switch is in the middle neither wire is grounded. This allows me to have override on, override off, and the auto function of the controller available from one switch. It works great and I would encourage anyone else who is interested to do a similar mod. The switch is sold at Radio shack for about 4 bucks and for the wire I used an old extension cord because it contains the 3 wires required for the switch.
I am going to make a better switch mount I just haven't figured out where my switch panel will be yet, and this is my first switchable thing I've installed.
Oh yeah I threw a pic of my Volant CAI in there for good measure

[bobbyblaze]

Nice job.

Notice any HP (or seat of the pants) gains by taking the fan load off the motor ?

I especially like the on-off addition for water crossings.

[MrSmithsTB]

Very nice. Nothing I like better than ingenuity and a good use of parts. What kind of investment did this take? Worth switching over instead of replacing the fan clutch?

[Zero]

Great job. When i put an efan on my pickup, I noticed an improvement in millage.

[johnburgelin]

:thumright: Nice job.

Notice any HP (or seat of the pants) gains by taking the fan load off the motor ?

I especially like the on-off addition for water crossings.

I did notice, a big seat of the pants difference, more so than any other mod I've done so far (CAI, exhaust, corvette servo) It allows the engine to wind up quite a bit faster, and you don't have that ANNOYING fan whine from the stock EV fan anymore. There also was an increase in my mpg. I had lost some previously due to my exhaust, which I'm hopefully taking off soon, but I got about 1-3 mpg back all around as per my DIC. The on-off switch was the main reason I got the setup I did (flex-a-lite) it was very easy, I just have to figure out how to route the wires through the firewall now (they're just going around the inside of the door frame for the time being).

Very nice. Nothing I like better than ingenuity and a good use of parts. What kind of investment did this take? Worth switching over instead of replacing the fan clutch?

I bought the fans and controller from a member on the TV classifieds, for around $120 if I remember correctly. The switch ($4) and the extension cord wire (free) was a minimal investment. I don't know what replacing the fan clutch does for performance, but I'd say if you're gonna go through all the work of taking it out, you'd be best off sticking an efan in. If you look around I'd say for well under $200 you could get an efan and controller. There are plenty of instructions and DIY's for installation and the controller generally comes with wiring guides. The fans are just 2 wire systems it's not very difficult. The controller should have hook ups for positive, ground, ignition, AC, temp sensor, and a couple extra that are either unused or additional features, but that is all covered in the wiring guide with the controller.

[fishsticks]

I just have to figure out how to route the wires through the firewall now (they're just going around the inside of the door frame for the time being).

There's a couple grommets right below the brake master cylinder that have enough room to make a small cut and push some wires through.

[glfredrick]

I've read some on the e-fan install on the OS. How involved is the issue with the PCM (turning off the fan controls part) and can PCM 4 Less handle that?

Installing the fans as a stand alone system is no big deal. I've done several on other vehicles and am getting ready to do so on my Cummins diesel tow rig and my Rangger truggy. It is the linked PCM issue that hs holding me back on the TB.

[johnburgelin]

I've read some on the e-fan install on the OS. How involved is the issue with the PCM (turning off the fan controls part) and can PCM 4 Less handle that?

Installing the fans as a stand alone system is no big deal. I've done several on other vehicles and am getting ready to do so on my Cummins diesel tow rig and my Rangger truggy. It is the linked PCM issue that hs holding me back on the TB.

I talked with Kelly from PCM4less and yes they can turn off the codes, which will in no other way affect you afterwards. I was most worried about passing an emissions check here in the STL metro area. Kelly assured me that the OBDII check will not be affected by them turning off the codes. In fewer words, yes, it works like a charm with PCM4Less tune.

[Zero]

im more and more interested in this mod. I had a flexalite black magic fan on my previous pick up. I found the flexalite controlers to be trash. they didnt handle vibration, or moisture well

[midnight]

want a quick fix for the controler. get a tube made that goes into the heater hose that will accept a fan switch sensor from a honda. at 190' the fans will come on. i am working on this as we speak.

[johnburgelin]

im more and more interested in this mod. I had a flexalite black magic fan on my previous pick up. I found the flexalite controlers to be trash. they didnt handle vibration, or moisture well

Well this controller is holding up well for me thus far, I think I've had it on about 3-4 weeks I'd guess. The guy that had it before me had it on for 2 years. I've run my truck through a couple big a$$ puddles and we got hit by a freakin monsoon on my way out to the Ozarks last weekend (it was raining so hard there was an inch or so of water literally flowing off the highway like a river) No hiccups yet. The guy I bought it from said it was the "new" Flex-a-lite controller.

[Zero]

Good stuff bro. I hope you have better luck than I do. Personally I am not a huge fan of their adjustable thermostate controller. Id rather have an actual temp switch that could be put on the rad return or somewhere in line with the cooling system.....good thing you put a manual switch on their too.

Does your e fan stay on for a bit after you shut your truck off?

[johnburgelin]

Good stuff bro. I hope you have better luck than I do. Personally I am not a huge fan of their adjustable thermostate controller. Id rather have an actual temp switch that could be put on the rad return or somewhere in line with the cooling system.....good thing you put a manual switch on their too.

Does your e fan stay on for a bit after you shut your truck off?

Yeah my efan stays on for another min or so after the truck shuts off and it was running, otherwise, no. My controller has a temperature sensor that I stuck through the radiator below the return hose, is that what you're talking about? My controller consistently comes on at the same temperature and keeps the engine cool, consistenly. The temperature today was 102 degrees, I wasn't worried once about it. Supposed to be 105 tomorrow, with an index of 109. But I'd still rather be outside than behind a desk any day of the week

[Hatchet669]

yea i like my e-fan... always throws people off when they look under the hood lol...

[glfredrick]

For a stand-alone fan system (not tied to PCM) the DC Controller is probably the best choice. It controls the voltage with an on/off square wave pattern versus a rheotstat that decreases voltage to the fan motors (burns up motors). That means that 10% is off 90% of the time and at full voltage 10% of the time, making the fan run at 10% speed.

I've watched these run in off-road rigs, and at times the fan just barely ticks over.

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

The controllers are a tad pricey, but they work great.

The Dakota Digital controller is also gaining in popularity:

http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/ ... prd641.htm

[DJones]

I don't really see the use of the "on" position, but not having an "off" position is the reason why I have mud all over my engine compartment. I can't wait until I can do this upgrade, but it won't be until after I get the PCM4Less tune. And fix another noise.

How much power does each type of e-fan take at full power? How much does yours take?

[johnburgelin]

I don't really see the use of the "on" position, but not having an "off" position is the reason why I have mud all over my engine compartment. I can't wait until I can do this upgrade, but it won't be until after I get the PCM4Less tune. And fix another noise.

How much power does each type of e-fan take at full power? How much does yours take?

The only time I've ever used the "on" is when I've been sitting in traffic on the highway, just to keep the fans on when I first installed them. I was worried about overheating because I had a full truck, turns out I didn't need to be. It was only one more cable to run, and it is nice to have it, just in case for whatever reason. I don't know how much each fan takes at full power but I can tell you when the fans are off and I flip the switch to "on" my voltmeter on the dash drops maybe a volt, then goes back up to 14, after a second or two. It seems the only high draw times are getting the fans started if they weren't already moving, I haven't noticed this same drop on the move. Once the fans are running they seem electrically efficient.

[Hatchet669]

well the e-fan i have was one of PCM4Less e-fan kits... the problem with there kit was it didn't turn on when the heat got high... it would turn on at idle or ac....other then that the fans would pretty much turn off which is why the issue came in with the over heating on roadies truck while off-roading... while going that slow the fans wouldn't turn on... same as if in stop and go traffic... so i installed a switch that is on off and auto... when in stop and go or off roading i would flip the switch to on... in water or anything turned it off and other wise left it on computer controlled...

which is why that was taken off the market... the computer on my unit is fried anyways so i have to run mine on either on or off fan... hasnt bothered me to much and with the fans on they cool the engine down fast and easy... but as i have to control it manually every time i will most likely go to one of these set ups in the next year or so...

[johnburgelin]

well the e-fan i have was one of PCM4Less e-fan kits... the problem with there kit was it didn't turn on when the heat got high... it would turn on at idle or ac....other then that the fans would pretty much turn off which is why the issue came in with the over heating on roadies truck while off-roading... while going that slow the fans wouldn't turn on... same as if in stop and go traffic... so i installed a switch that is on off and auto... when in stop and go or off roading i would flip the switch to on... in water or anything turned it off and other wise left it on computer controlled...

which is why that was taken off the market... the computer on my unit is fried anyways so i have to run mine on either on or off fan... hasnt bothered me to much and with the fans on they cool the engine down fast and easy... but as i have to control it manually every time i will most likely go to one of these set ups in the next year or so...

I'd just keep the fans as I'm assuming you either have the 292's or LS1 fans. Check around for a flex-a-lite controller it's what I have and I believe the controller would make all the difference, you should be able to find one pretty cheap (hint: check the trailvoy classifieds)

[Trail X]

well the e-fan i have was one of PCM4Less e-fan kits... the problem with there kit was it didn't turn on when the heat got high... it would turn on at idle or ac....other then that the fans would pretty much turn off which is why the issue came in with the over heating on roadies truck while off-roading... while going that slow the fans wouldn't turn on... same as if in stop and go traffic... so i installed a switch that is on off and auto... when in stop and go or off roading i would flip the switch to on... in water or anything turned it off and other wise left it on computer controlled...

which is why that was taken off the market... the computer on my unit is fried anyways so i have to run mine on either on or off fan... hasnt bothered me to much and with the fans on they cool the engine down fast and easy... but as i have to control it manually every time i will most likely go to one of these set ups in the next year or so...

Make sure you don't forget to turn it on... and make sure you don't leave it running when the truck's off.

Too much room for human error, man... be careful!