Efan with custom (On/Auto/Off) switch.

[The Roadie]

How much power does each type of e-fan take at full power?

I did the numbers on this long ago when I had efans. I think even if the fans (2) were 20 Amps each, that's only 500 Watts or so load. 1 HO = 756 Watts, so the efans only took 2/3 of a HP. That sort of implied that the mechanical fan isn't stealing like 20 HP like some owners were guessing because that would be the equivalent of a 100 Amp, 120VAC shop vac!

...other then that the fans would pretty much turn off which is why the issue came in with the over heating on roadies truck while off-roading...

Nope. Sorry. My efan controller was working fine, and the fans were commanded full on by the time by coolant temp got to 220. It's just the efan airflow wasn't pulling enough through the radiator at a low ground speed, high engine load in hill climbs, and high ambient temps. Part of that was sealing around the edges, but a lot of it was just that the efan and LS1 plenum CFM was less than the factory mechanical fan and OEM plenum CFM. Nothing could have been done except raising the RPM of the fans or increasing the blade pitch to get more CFM.

[Hatchet669]

I'd just keep the fans as I'm assuming you either have the 292's or LS1 fans. Check around for a flex-a-lite controller it's what I have and I believe the controller would make all the difference, you should be able to find one pretty cheap (hint: check the trailvoy classifieds)

thanks i'll check it out... and i got the LS1 fans and they cool off the engine fast

Make sure you don't forget to turn it on... and make sure you don't leave it running when the truck's off.

Too much room for human error, man... be careful!

yea there is alot of room for human error... but i havnt had a problem cept once i forgot to turn it on... but once u step out of the truck you can hear it clear as day that the fan is still on...

Nope. Sorry. My efan controller was working fine, and the fans were commanded full on by the time by coolant temp got to 220. It's just the efan airflow wasn't pulling enough through the radiator at a low ground speed, high engine load in hill climbs, and high ambient temps. Part of that was sealing around the edges, but a lot of it was just that the efan and LS1 plenum CFM was less than the factory mechanical fan and OEM plenum CFM. Nothing could have been done except raising the RPM of the fans or increasing the blade pitch to get more CFM.

i wasnt 100% as i couldnt see the fans as i'm driving... but when i was in stop and go my engine would over heat... when i installed the switch and it would start to over heat and i flipped it to the on position it cools off the engine no problem... i have huge gaps around my fan shroud to the radiator.. with teh fan on it cools the engine fast as just fine... so it seemed to be that the fans werent coming on at the rite time...

but with the fan switch to the on (once i installed it) i never have a problem with over heating even when it hit 100 in stop and go traffic where it over heated before when i didnt have the switch in there...

[Zero]

If i was gona do the efan again, id look into the dakota controller before I got anoter flexalite. I dont like the prong in the rad.

[g wallace]

Hey what did it cost to get to your check engine code turn off I didn't know they could do that might think about doing that to my rig

[v7guy]

The original poster hasn't been on here in over 2 years, your best bet would be to contact pcm4less