Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

***NEW PRODUCT - Massive GMT360 Adj Rr Suspension Parts***

Products offered by our vendor: Massive Speed

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Moderator: K STYLEZ

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by K STYLEZ » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:50 pm

We're now offering our new line (and the industries only for this platform) of FULLY ADJUSTABLE Rear suspension components!!!


Upper control arms, rear control arms and panhard bars are available.

They are offered individually or as a complete kit.

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They are available in 5 colors, Gloss Red, Metallic Silver, Blue Pearl, Gloss Black and our Signature Purple Pearl.

Featuring:

  • BIG 1.5” OD .120” wall Alloy steel tig welded body will handle ANY power level. Premium powder coated for good looks and long life.
  • Aurora 3/4in VCAM 21150 lb Load capacity PTFE Composite race spherical rod ends – super strength yet metallic contact isolated – NO NOISE! LONG LIFE! NO LUBRICATION NECESSARY! Years of exhausting research at the race track and on the street have led us to these “cost-no-object” ends!!!
  • Billet BIG O.D. Custom machined rod end step bushings – Not off the shelf tiny pieces! Dare to compare! HD construction made just for this purpose where rotary motion is most critical but torque loads are great. Wont let your factory stamped steel brackets twist or bend. BIG HP cars will tear lesser pieces to shreds.
  • HARDCORE HARDWARE kit. Only the finest 170,000 PSI Grade 10.9 bolts with Nylock nuts and plated washers. Strong enough for all power levels and replaces your weak rusted stock stuff.
  • Made with quality right here IN THE USA!!!
Full spherical rod end construction eliminate flabby rubber – this means your rear will be planted were it’s supposed to be, dramatically improving traction and handling performance, and allowing far greater articulation and flex. Double adjustable with opposing threads so adjustments can be made while installed, makes centering of your lifted or lowered axle a snap. Massive logo so folks know you use the best. Simple 1 hour install with basic hand tools.

The panhard bar uses 1.25" .120" tubing for diff cover clearance.

The uppers can be had for $219 per set Here the lowers for the same Here, the panhard for $139 Here

Buy them all and save $58 on the Traction Satisfaction kit!!! Here


AND to kick these off were going to offer 10% OFF on any of these new items for the next 30 days, and as always $5 shipping to the lower 48 states. Use code TOUGHTB when checking out.
Last edited by K STYLEZ on Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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by K STYLEZ » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:55 pm

Here they are red for the purple haters out there

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In blue on my truck

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Here's some close ups of the offset bushings and the rod ends.

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by chevycrew » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:09 pm

Not sure if the market is there or not, but if I was buying or building a set of lowers, I would want thicker wall tubing. If used in the rocks the lowers are subject to getting bent.

Just my $.02! (I have leaf springs so it doesnt apply to me anymore)


Also what degree of misalignment to these joints offer with the large spacers?
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by K STYLEZ » Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:28 pm

Huh. Well, I dunno, I guess i have more of a race background, I know our 1.5" .120 wall holds 1000 hp through a 12" slick. But your right, that car (hopefully) would never see direct contact with a foreign object (like a rock). I know .120 is a ton thicker than the stock arms. I'd think a huge improvement.

Due to the tapered face of our offset bushings, there is no reduction in the range of motion offered by the rod end, which is 24 degrees lateral misalignment.
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by drwfaulk » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:05 pm

:mechanic: wow you work quick!! too bad i dont have the money i would totally rock the purple.
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by fishsticks » Tue Jan 24, 2012 10:48 pm

I believe the stock lowers are .120 wall already. The uppers might as well be made of balsa wood.

I'd go to a .180 wall or preferably a .250 for the lowers. They hang down quite a bit. My lowers (from the other vendor) are 2" .250 wall I believe. Not adjustable though.

This stuff looks really good overall. I'd rock the purple.
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by Infamouz » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:30 am

So your asking $219 for the lowers, and $219 for the upper? :scratch:
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:56 am

maybe blue............
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by Rob93 » Wed Jan 25, 2012 2:24 am

Any measurements eye to eye at its longest and shortest length?
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by Skindiggers » Wed Jan 25, 2012 8:05 am

Nice job bro..
Now if you can make something like this for the front suspension (adjustable upper and lower control arms for lifted TB) , that will make you rich ...
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:08 am

K STYLEZ wrote:Huh. Well, I dunno, I guess i have more of a race background, I know our 1.5" .120 wall holds 1000 hp through a 12" slick. But your right, that car (hopefully) would never see direct contact with a foreign object (like a rock).

You're talking pure compression/tension in a track car. We experience a large bending moment when these get drug over a rock (evidence below my vehicle).

Would be interesting to cut open a stock link and see what it actually is.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Jan 25, 2012 10:36 am

I have a nicely bent stock one I can cut up if desired.
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by K STYLEZ » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:40 pm

Infamouz wrote:So your asking $219 for the lowers, and $219 for the upper? :scratch:


$219 for the uppers, $219 for the lowers. There is a pair of each.

take 10% off for the next 30 days too. :flex dirty:


I sacrificed a stock lower today.

It's ~.095" 1.25 OD.

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The upper is funky 1"ish stamped open junk.

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This one's from an SS so it has the little hanger for the air line.


So overall I'm sure these are alot tougher.

That said, it wouldnt be too hard to make them out of a thicker wall tubing. I'll look into tube adapters. Of course they would weigh more, I'm used to that being a primary concern.
Last edited by K STYLEZ on Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by K STYLEZ » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:49 pm

The lowers go to about 19.25 (~1/2 inch shorter) to about 21 adjusted safely out (~1.25 longer) with proper thread engagement. You could go another 1/4 or so out but I wouldnt risk it.
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by bartonmd » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:50 pm

Typically, the thickness has more to do with how easily tube dents, and the diameter has more to do with how easily tube bends. These are both thicker and larger, so I'd think they'd be much better than stock... Would thicker and larger hurt anything? nope!

These/we are folks who are carrying 800# of gear, have hundreds of pounds of steel bolted to the thing, and have wheel/tire combinations that weigh close to 100# each... Adding 8# of 1/2 unsprung weight is a drop in the bucket (or pool).

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by Mudwheelin » Wed Jan 25, 2012 4:17 pm

Wow, that stuff looks great. So $5 shipping to the lower 48, what about Canada as that's where I am. My postal code is T2H 2L2.
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by K STYLEZ » Wed Jan 25, 2012 4:49 pm

Mudwheelin wrote:Wow, that stuff looks great. So $5 shipping to the lower 48, what about Canada as that's where I am. My postal code is T2H 2L2.


Probably about $40 for a set of control arms via USPS, about 75-80 for the complete set of everything.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:12 pm

Just for everyone's info, I did some quick paper calculations and (assuming same grade steel) the Massive links are 116% stronger against pure bending stress than the stock lowers.

Stock had a second moment of inertia of 0.0324 in^4
Massive has a second moment of inertia of 0.0704 in^4

So even though the dimensional numbers are only slightly different, they yield a big result in strength. I'm sold. Karl, I'll be placing an order as soon as my bedroom "renovations" are complete... AKA hopefully soon.
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by fishsticks » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:24 pm

Numbers don't lie, and James is a numbers guy. I checked the ones I have today, they are 1 5/8", not 2" so these are very comparable. Mine have put up with some rock hits and have bare spots to prove it. No dents.

These are way nicer looking, and adjustable to boot.

I think if people set these to about .5" to .75" longer than stock they'll be fine running 35s with out any rubbing at all.

I think I'd opt to sell the control arms as a set of 4 only though. Changing just the lowers will also change the pinion angle significantly.
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by chevycrew » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:34 pm

Selling the lowers seperate allows someone with bent lowers to upgrade when replacing, then when time and money allows they can do the uppers.
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