Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

PLANNING: TECORE X. T10; May 2nd - May 4th. GWNF Va.

Trips/trails in the eastern part of the U.S. (loosely follows the Eastern Time Zone)
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by NC_IslandRunner » Tue Jan 28, 2014 4:46 pm

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A little longer than 3 months

But in that 3 months I'm gonna rebuild my transmission myself... should save me $1000 or more bucks.
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by Moots1288 » Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:01 pm

navigator wrote:Hey man, I still have a lot of parts sitting around the garage I have to install and only 3 months to install them in! Give me a break man! :-)
You dont need nothing just throw the gear in the truck and drive
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by Wahugg » Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:02 pm

A question for the trip...

I am planning on bring a spare hub, CV shaft, and complete tie rod/end. I am well versed and prepared to change the hub and cv shaft but I've never ventured into the tie rod arena before. If my tie rod were to break, would someone in the group have the tool on hand?

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by Moots1288 » Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:06 pm

Wahugg wrote:A question for the trip...

I am planning on bring a spare hub, CV shaft, and complete tie rod/end. I am well versed and prepared to change the hub and cv shaft but I've never ventured into the tie rod arena before. If my tie rod were to break, would someone in the group have the tool on hand?

-Wahugg
Nope its every man for themselves :P.
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by mikekey » Tue Jan 28, 2014 5:18 pm

Wahugg wrote:A question for the trip...

I am planning on bring a spare hub, CV shaft, and complete tie rod/end. I am well versed and prepared to change the hub and cv shaft but I've never ventured into the tie rod arena before. If my tie rod were to break, would someone in the group have the tool on hand?

-Wahugg



Get a 15 inch adjustable wrench. I bothered with that stupid tool for half a day before taking The Roadie's advice. The wrench is what you need. Maybe a good hammer too. And a pickle fork wouldn't hurt either.
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by v7guy » Tue Jan 28, 2014 9:52 pm

Wallace, I'll have the tool in the back of the truck, you can feel free to borrow it if necessary.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:52 am

I imagine a pipe wrench would work equally good, if not better. Unless the ball joint is so hard the wrench can't bite in.
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:05 am

JamesDowning wrote:I imagine a pipe wrench would work equally good, if not better. Unless the ball joint is so hard the wrench can't bite in.
A pipe wrench on the inner? Or the joint?
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:37 am

Moots1288 wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:I imagine a pipe wrench would work equally good, if not better. Unless the ball joint is so hard the wrench can't bite in.
A pipe wrench on the inner? Or the joint?


For me I fiddled with this thing for half the afternoon.

Image

I kept grinding and grinding and it would not fit over the inner to remove that end. My kit also looked slightly different both both the photos James posted, and the article on the TrailVoy I found where someone else had one that looked a little closer to mine.

Image

Then a few posts lower on that article on the OS, The Roadie mentioned him an Teebes using a pipe wrench.

I got a 15 inch wrench, because I think you Moots told me in the Chat thread to do that.

Boom, it was off in under a second, literally. I can't believe how fast it came off.

So, personally I suggest the wrench over the tool, because everyone has to modify the tool.
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:25 am

mikekey wrote:
Moots1288 wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:I imagine a pipe wrench would work equally good, if not better. Unless the ball joint is so hard the wrench can't bite in.
A pipe wrench on the inner? Or the joint?


For me I fiddled with this thing for half the afternoon.

Image

I kept grinding and grinding and it would not fit over the inner to remove that end. My kit also looked slightly different both both the photos James posted, and the article on the TrailVoy I found where someone else had one that looked a little closer to mine.

Image

Then a few posts lower on that article on the OS, The Roadie mentioned him an Teebes using a pipe wrench.

I got a 15 inch wrench, because I think you Moots told me in the Chat thread to do that.

Boom, it was off in under a second, literally. I can't believe how fast it came off.

So, personally I suggest the wrench over the tool, because everyone has to modify the tool.
I believe it was Erik and I agreed. Because I cannot see how a pipe wrench would fit, it would have to be a 6" wench to fit in there
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 29, 2014 10:44 am

My 15 inch adjustable fits fine.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:23 am

Wait, Mike, did you use a crescent adjustable wrench, or a pipe wrench?

Moots, I meant a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod ball housing. For clearance, I think the key is to turn the steering wheel so the rack is sticking out a bit from the subframe. At that point, shouldn't be too hard to get a 15 in wrench on it. Seems like a crescent wrench would be even more difficult to fit in there since the flats are on the back side of the joint, and there are only two flats. A pipe wrench can bite in at any angle and doesn't need 180 degrees to turn before re-biting in.
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:31 am



Crescent. Maybe I'll get a pipe. My Crescent doesn't fit my Fabtechs. :facepalm:
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:51 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Wait, Mike, did you use a crescent adjustable wrench, or a pipe wrench?

Moots, I meant a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod ball housing. For clearance, I think the key is to turn the steering wheel so the rack is sticking out a bit from the subframe. At that point, shouldn't be too hard to get a 15 in wrench on it. Seems like a crescent wrench would be even more difficult to fit in there since the flats are on the back side of the joint, and there are only two flats. A pipe wrench can bite in at any angle and doesn't need 180 degrees to turn before re-biting in.
Hmm you have a point its just very tight to fit a jaw of a 14" pipe wrench. And you wouldnt chew up the inner with an adjustable. But I see what you're talking about
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by ErikSS » Wed Jan 29, 2014 12:57 pm

mikekey wrote:Crescent. Maybe I'll get a pipe. My Crescent doesn't fit my Fabtechs. :facepalm:

Huh. Works great on our Moog! Lol
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:04 pm

ErikSS wrote:
mikekey wrote:Crescent. Maybe I'll get a pipe. My Crescent doesn't fit my Fabtechs. :facepalm:

Huh. Works great on our Moog! Lol
I wonder what the pipe is going to do.. maybe build sliders?
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:45 pm

ErikSS wrote:Huh. Works great on our Moog! Lol


Good, cause you'll probably break yours. AGAIN.

Here I took a photo. Problem is the wrench opens up to 1.50 inches. I need a wrench that opens to 2 inches.

rrik_sucks.jpg


The pipe will be used for knocking smart ass on their rear. :finger:
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 1:58 pm

mikekey wrote:
ErikSS wrote:Huh. Works great on our Moog! Lol


Good, cause you'll probably break yours. AGAIN.

Here I took a photo. Problem is the wrench opens up to 1.50 inches. I need a wrench that opens to 2 inches.

rrik_sucks.jpg


The pipe will be used for knocking smart ass on their rear. :finger:
Why wouldnt you just use the pipe for sliders? And he broke his because they were chinese no name... now theyre Moog. Might be Chinese but atleast higher standards, and we have RC sleeves. :)

PS: Hope that's a big pipe cause there is a lot of smart asses
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:07 pm

Looks like you can generally get a 12" pipe wrench to work on a 2" diameter. Mike, I'd try that. The biggest question though is if the teeth of the pipe are hard enough to bite into the ball joint housing. I'd bet it will, but who knows.
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by Moots1288 » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:20 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Looks like you can generally get a 12" pipe wrench to work on a 2" diameter. Mike, I'd try that. The biggest question though is if the teeth of the pipe are hard enough to bite into the ball joint housing. I'd bet it will, but who knows.
The end of the inner well def be hard enough to bite, if you can grab a bite on brass pipe itll be fine.
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