Rear Control Arms!

[gotricebih]

When I've priced flex joints in the past they were around $40-$50 bucks each. Putting just one on each control arm would buns the price up at least $200 extra for a set. If there are people that would pay that much extra then maybe I could look into making them with flex joints...

[glfredrick]

I'm not getting into a debate about your pricing structure, but I'm not sure how the price jumps that much for adding the flexy joints. You have to buy or build a set of poly joints on each end, and even if they are just DOM cut to size, you have something in them, probably around $20 for a pair according to what I've paid when I did control arms. Welding is the same. Add the cost difference of the joints and make a great control arm! Should be between $60-$80 more than without.

[gotricebih]

I will have to look into this more.

I looked around earlier tonight and I couldn't find anyone that makes flex joints with our mounting width.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I keep looking at the truck and they really need to be longer. They are not centered in the wheelwell yet. I think they need to be 1.25 over stock or maybe 1.5 over stock.

I am headed to Redbird Offroad area this weekend for a HI-Lift sponsored wheeling day so they should get some testing.

[bartonmd]

I keep looking at the truck and they really need to be longer. They are not centered in the wheelwell yet. I think they need to be 1.25 over stock or maybe 1.5 over stock.

I am headed to Redbird Offroad area this weekend for a HI-Lift sponsored wheeling day so they should get some testing.

Take a look at how far back they are on full stuff... Make them too long, and it'll put the axle back too far when they're stuffed...


Mike

[HARDTRAILZ]

Take a look at how far back they are on full stuff... Make them too long, and it'll put the axle back too far when they're stuffed...


Mike

But they will still hit the front with a bigger tire at stuff is the issue. I can cut the back but not the front of the rear wells.

[bartonmd]

Take a look at how far back they are on full stuff... Make them too long, and it'll put the axle back too far when they're stuffed...


Mike

But they will still hit the front with a bigger tire at stuff is the issue. I can cut the back but not the front of the rear wells.

Ah, gotcha...

Mike

[MrSmithsTB]

Take a look at how far back they are on full stuff... Make them too long, and it'll put the axle back too far when they're stuffed...


Mike

Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think this will be an issue. The driveshaft is a fixed length, much like the control arms. If the control arms stretch farther back as the angle becomes less severe, the driveshaft would do the same thing which wouldn't allow leave it in danger of falling out. At least that is how I see it.

[bartonmd]

Take a look at how far back they are on full stuff... Make them too long, and it'll put the axle back too far when they're stuffed...


Mike

Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think this will be an issue. The driveshaft is a fixed length, much like the control arms. If the control arms stretch farther back as the angle becomes less severe, the driveshaft would do the same thing which wouldn't allow leave it in danger of falling out. At least that is how I see it.

If the arms are 1" longer than stock, the drive shaft splines will be 1" less engaged when the arms are parallel with the drive shaft.

I was actually talking about the wheel hitting the back of the inner fender at full stuff, though...

Mike

[MrSmithsTB]

Gotcha. With all the talk about driveshafts being to short, I read your post the wrong way. I wouldn't worry too much about the rear of the well. Things look very modifiable back there.

[bartonmd]

Gotcha. With all the talk about driveshafts being to short, I read your post the wrong way. I wouldn't worry too much about the rear of the well. Things look very modifiable back there.

Very true on the bumper cover, but you run into the same problem at the rear of the inner fender, because that goes into the cabin, as well... Could probably pound it in, but would be making holes into the cabin if you cut on it...

Mike

[HARDTRAILZ]

I could gain clearance from another top mount spacer. 35s will fit in the rear with z71 and one or two spacers without cutting. IF...the axle is centered in the wheelwell. There is no reason to cut anything if not needed.

[gotricebih]

Well it looks like I'm gonna have to offer these in 1/2" longer for guys with less lift and 1" longer for guys with more lift.

I think if we go any longer then 1" over stock we will run into issues with rubbing or even drive-shaft issues.

[HARDTRAILZ]

One thing i should add is that my rear of my truck is 2 inches taller than the pics of the tires being stuffed before. Now there would be quite a bit more clearance.

[bartonmd]

I could gain clearance from another top mount spacer. 35s will fit in the rear with z71 and one or two spacers without cutting. IF...the axle is centered in the wheelwell. There is no reason to cut anything if not needed.

I do agree, but with as short as our rear arms are, with the angle change when lifting, if you jack the rear 5" over stock and center the wheel with 1.5" extended arms, you're going to be 1.5" farther back when stock when the wheel travels up to stock height.

The only way to get away from that is to do different mounts and longer arms.

Mike

[HARDTRAILZ]

but the tires will never tuck as far up as in the tecore pics with 5 inches of lift. that is tucked with 1.5 inch of lift. adding 1 inch to the tires outer diameter and having an additional 3.5 inch of lift is going to leave the tire a couple inches from the top of the wheelwell when tucked.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Well it looks like I'm gonna have to offer these in 1/2" longer for guys with less lift and 1" longer for guys with more lift.

I think if we go any longer then 1" over stock we will run into issues with rubbing or even drive-shaft issues.

i thought it had been calculated that 1.5 over stock would be ok with the driveshaft. Rubbing should not be an issue with the rear lifted up.

[bartonmd]

You've got something in there that hits before the bump stops?

The bump stops were what your stuffed side was sitting on.

Mike

[HARDTRAILZ]

You've got something in there that hits before the bump stops?

The bump stops were what your stuffed side was sitting on.

Mike

No I dont, i had myself mixed up. but that would be an easy fix. Extend the bump stops. Or will the swaybar act as the stop with enough lift?

I may not be getting the rear flex with the stock shorter swaybar links... plus those pics may have been the rear disco'ed after the bolt broke...

[bartonmd]

Yeah, extended bump stops would be easy, but if you're going for traction, you'd want as much flex as possible (as you know), and not want to kill it with longer bump stops, for the sake of centering something that doesn't touch, as it is...

It's just something to look at, and think about... May be something where you take the rear spring out and use a jack to make the wheel move the whole range of motion, then add 1/2" or subtract X, or whatever, for the length you're wanting...

I know the anti-roll bar end links were fixed when you were going down off that rock, right before camp on Friday night.

Mike