Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

2016/17 Winter Engine Rebuild (and more)

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by bartonmd » Mon Jan 16, 2017 11:05 am

IMO, I'd run penzoil platinum. The new M1 sucks worse than some conventional oils, since they took the sulfer out of it. Turbo manufacturers actually say specifically not to run M1 with turbo engines, these days. I found that out only after my Cruze (totally stock) took a turbo at 75k miles.

Mike
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by HawkeyeC25 » Mon Jan 16, 2017 9:21 pm

Interesting... I know when I bought my 07 LMM Duramax, Mobile 1 Delvac was the only low sulfur CJ-4 rated oil on the market required for the new engines to protect warranty. Didn't realize the requirements changed for gas engines as well. I put 120,000 miles on that truck with a high torque tune and a lot of towing near gvwr on M1 with no issues. I would need some good evidence against it to not run it in my gasser... But I'm open to Pennzoil or royal purple.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Mon Jan 16, 2017 10:13 pm

Finally got all my parts off to the machine shop today!!! :viking:

Here's the repair list!!

Block and Rotating Assembly:
Degrease Block
Crack Check Block
Bore/Hone w/ Dual Deck Plates (A must with the aluminum blocks)
Polish Crankshaft
R&R Cam Bearings
Balance rotating assembly

Heads
Clean/Crack Check Cylinder Heads
Valve Job
Resurface Cylinder heads
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by bartonmd » Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:16 am

HawkeyeC25 wrote:Interesting... I know when I bought my 07 LMM Duramax, Mobile 1 Delvac was the only low sulfur CJ-4 rated oil on the market required for the new engines to protect warranty. Didn't realize the requirements changed for gas engines as well. I put 120,000 miles on that truck with a high torque tune and a lot of towing near gvwr on M1 with no issues. I would need some good evidence against it to not run it in my gasser... But I'm open to Pennzoil or royal purple.


Delvac is a completely different oil. Their "extended protection" is still "OK" but the regular M1 sucks now. Look at BITOG forums about it.

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by HawkeyeC25 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:53 am

Been working with the machine shop! Block and heads are clean - no cracks! Block has some scoring in the cylinders (which I knew). Only required a .010 over bore, but going with a .020 instead (more availability in pistons and rings... and... why not? :) ).

They were going to use my valves and clean them up, but said the intake valves are marginal and may not seal well with the 3 angle grind. So I ordered up new intake and exhaust valves. Going to be like new all around!

Parts on the way! Looks like by the time I'm done, the only thing reused will be the bare heads, bare block, crank, and con rods :thumleft:
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by rScherzer » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:38 pm

Go big....Stroker crank, titanium rods.....valves.....ohhhh the POWER!!!! lol building engines is fun.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Sun Feb 05, 2017 10:45 pm

rScherzer wrote:Go big....Stroker crank, titanium rods.....valves.....ohhhh the POWER!!!! lol building engines is fun.


Ha!! Complete rebuild with Stage 2 cam will have to do for this motor! Full machine work and balance should allow me to run a few more rpms and get some good power increases. But more power is not really my end game. Just want a nice new motor with no AFM!
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by rScherzer » Mon Feb 06, 2017 12:21 pm

Yeah I see a lot of AFM problems here at work. I wouldn't have it in my engine.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Feb 09, 2017 10:43 pm

It actually wasn't an AFM lifter that failed oddly enough. A normal lifter collapsed, then the roller intermittently locked and started grinding down the cam lobe! I figured why replace it with a stock AFM cam when I can go taller and longer duration!! So bye bye to the AFM while I'm in there (cams are specific for AFM engines)! With all the mods I have, the overall drag of the vehicle at highway speeds meant I almost never saw AFM activation anyway.
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by bartonmd » Mon Feb 13, 2017 4:45 pm

Actually, I read that DOD or not, a cam roller is like the #1 hard failure in well maintained engines.

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by HawkeyeC25 » Tue Feb 14, 2017 11:51 pm

bartonmd wrote:Actually, I read that DOD or not, a cam roller is like the #1 hard failure in well maintained engines.

Mike


Then I guess I'm in good company :)

Also, the heads are done!! They are still at the shop while the block and crank get worked next. I took a quick look at them and they look great!! Can't wait to get the rest back!
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Feb 16, 2017 10:23 pm

Well, the crank had some rough spots as well after shop inspection. A polish has now become a grind on the crank! Also, the con-rods are a bit out of round. They are definitely salvageable, but the expense is within $20 of a new set of lighter forged con-rods. UPGRADE!!! I guess I'm down to only having the stock bare block (bored .020 over), bare heads, and crank (with grind).

I also picked up the 4.2L Torque converter - should stall a bit higher than the stock 1600 V8 converter :roll:
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by bartonmd » Fri Feb 17, 2017 1:21 pm

HawkeyeC25 wrote:Well, the crank had some rough spots as well after shop inspection. A polish has now become a grind on the crank! Also, the con-rods are a bit out of round. They are definitely salvageable, but the expense is within $20 of a new set of lighter forged con-rods. UPGRADE!!! I guess I'm down to only having the stock bare block (bored .020 over), bare heads, and crank (with grind).

I also picked up the 4.2L Torque converter - should stall a bit higher than the stock 1600 V8 converter :roll:


You could probably sell your V8 converter to somebody with an inline 6 who wants to upgrade and stop making so much damned heat. I switched from the L6 TC to the V8 one when I did the trans rebuild on the Envoy that I had, and I loved it. It didn't make crazy heat for no reason, didn't need an aux cooler any more, all that. The inline 6 converter is higher stall (like 2100rpm, IIRC), so it'll be great for drag racing, but they make a ton of heat doing stuff like offroading or towing.

Mike
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by HawkeyeC25 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 11:06 pm

Wow - almost a month since I've been on here! A lot has happened!
I decided to put a new pump in the trans since it was staring me in the face with my engine's being out. Well, one thing lead to another, and before you knew it, I'm deep into the 4L60 :shock: New spacer plate (old one was close to losing a check ball), new clutches, new 2-4 band, new reverse input drum. Should be all set in a few days when parts get here.

But more exciting than that, the machine shop is done with my engine!!!! :excited: Just picked up the parts today. Now the fun begins! :mechanic:

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by HawkeyeC25 » Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:26 pm

Well, another month, and a LOT of updates! I assembled the trans, and engine, put it all back in the truck and fired it up!! Started right up! No leaks, oil pressure came up very quick and remains near 40psi at warm temps now (used to drop to 15-20 at times). Engine is running like a champ!

I started tuning with HP tuners and things were going well, until I realized my trans started slipping in Reverse. The Low /Reverse clutch was either done or there was a seal leak. This was the one part of the trans I didn't touch... guess I should have done a complete rebuild. At this point, I was burnt out on doing the engine and trans work, so I decided to find a local shop that sells and installs reman'ed built up 4L60's. So I now have a "new" trans behind the new motor :woot:

My engine and trans tuning is underway. I'm going to drop a few more wrap-up pics here and call this post done! Feel free to post any comments/questions on the project! Thanks for following along :cheers:

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2005 Trailblazer EXT LT V8 Lifted
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There are 10 types of people in this world, those who understand binary and those who don't.
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HawkeyeC25
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by bartonmd » Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:08 pm

Nice!
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