Water in (AIR)

[tarsh]

hey fellas been a while. last couple of weeks I heard this what sounded like boiling water noise in The engine bay, obviously first thought was coolant but levels were good and cap seems to be breathing correctly on the rad. Got to poking around and heard the air filter bubbling. Took it off and seen a little water in the intake tube so I took it off and drained it out. Put it all back on and started it up. Still there... I know now it's my secondary air injection system that has water in the tune conected to the intake tube on the bottom side. What's the actual purpose of this injection? Could it potentially be deleted? A long time ago the pump used to wine sooooo dam loud and one day it just stuck on. Keys out door open and everything! So I crawled under there and pulled and pried on the houseing and seen the plug for it so I disconnect it. So it's obviously full of water. How hard is it to replace? I know it's expensive too. If it could be deleted, I'm sure it would leave a check engine light wich I don't really care about. Don't hate on me to much, I know u guys like to pick on me!

[v7guy]

It's relatively common, you can unhook the hose at the air pump and drain it out.

The air pump is there for emissions, might have issues with the cat without it.

[Eredin]

I need to look at this, this weekend. Since my last offroad venture, I get a nice sound of something running upon first startup, motor or fan of some kind. Lasts about 15 seconds and normally only does it if I've been parked on a grade for a period of time. Hrm...

[v7guy]

Yeah, on a cold start up the air pump fires up, it's loud and you'll hear it inside

[tarsh]

I plan to remove the cat At some point. Could this emissions crap be deleted? I know it will leave a hole where the other hose conects to that silonoid thingie on the engine but I can cover that. Doesn't that need to breathe?

[v7guy]

If you ain't using it, then yeah, it can be deleted. The solenoid opens up the tube from the air pump to the exhaust stream. You'd just be eliminating all that.

[tarsh]

I just bought one of those mini breather filters. I'll use the existing tube in the solenoid and mount it that way, or I'll eliminate the solinoid and make a plate with a gasket and a tube that way. Not sure yet, that will be my easter project! Lol

[Trail X]

If you just hook up your breather to the solenoid, you'll get exhaust gasses coming out of it. You'll have to gasket off the solenoid or just potentially unplug it. Probably another code causing agent.

[tarsh]

So what I did was eliminate the pump and hoses. Took the small hose and cut it short, took the little hose conecter part and put it in the other end of the tube because it had a natural 90 degree bend in it so it would shoot upward. Them simply put the breather filter in. While it was all off I cleaned my throttle body and reset the PCM. This is what it looks like

If I knew more about this system might have a diffrent approach at this but to me, it collects water and honestly does nothing. And it's expensive. If the older TB can run without so can mine! And yes there's a code but the SES light has always been on for dumb stuff but it doesn't bug me any. Maybe later down the road I will change it up

[v7guy]

As James said, basically you're letting hot exhaust just out of the head blast that filter when the valve opens.
I dunno if it's hot enough to burn the filter or set it on fire, but it's something to consider. Might be ok if you unplug the electrical connector on the solenoid. But at that point you don't need a filter on it, just take the tube off since it isn't going to doing anything anyways.

Or if you wanna delete it, unbolt the solenoid, then cut out a plate to seal the hole in the manifold. It would basically just be a couple holes drilled in some steel, super easy to make.

[tarsh]

Yeah, that's what I figured, after my test drive to work today with the heat on it was letting some exhaust fumes in the cabin so I will be changing it up tonight. Ill probably make a plate like u said Jason. Live and learn right. When the heat was off I didn't smell any fumes, they went bad but I got kids so that's a given to change it up. I know it's got something to do with vapor build up or something like that. That won't pose an issue closing it up would it?

[Trail X]

No, the solenoid only opens for like 30 seconds on startup on a properly operating machine. If you're serious about removing the system, just block it off. But be sure to block off the end that connects to the intake too, otherwise you'll be pulling in unfiltered air into your intake.

[HARDTRAILZ]

You can buy the blockoff plate from GM. Wink did it years ago i am pretty sure. Never heard of any potential cat issues before. When I deleted the codes and chatted with Roadie and others about it way back when, it was said it would have no effect on anything but possibly emissions testing if done from cold, but since you would have to drive there it would not run anyway for testing. I have it all in place and can hear it run occasionally, but more often it does nothing and used to toss a code, so my last tune eliminated the code for me a couple years back. Never had any issue since. I would buy the plate and close it up and remove everything, but I just don't think its worth the hassle in my case.

[tarsh]

Will do Kyle. On the tune topic, I was considering getting it done. Any recommendations? I'm planning on some 33s here soon so I'm assuming I'd need to set it for that, am I correct?

[HARDTRAILZ]

PCMofNC is the general consensus unless you can get a local tune. I love my tune and would never go back to stock. I do not think their is a way to correct your speedo for 33s with yours being prior to 06, but you can eliminate the torque management and adjust the shift point and such. I got increased MPG and drivability.

[tarsh]

I'm aware of these things but I'm curiouse about"specs" that u guys use. Iv read something about somethings about them. I do wheel at least 2 times a week and the rest is daily drive. Any setup recommend guys? I don't care about speedo

[Trail X]

All the AIR system does is jumpstart the cat's operation by injecting unburned oxygen into the cat. Basically works the same as blowing on an ember to try to stoke a fire. Gets the cat working quicker than it otherwise would.

[tarsh]

Gotcha, thanks james

[HARDTRAILZ]

I'm aware of these things but I'm curiouse about"specs" that u guys use. Iv read something about somethings about them. I do wheel at least 2 times a week and the rest is daily drive. Any setup recommend guys? I don't care about speedo

I tried shift level 2 and 3. 3 is quite firm, but that is what I like. Many go with 2 and it was a marked improvement over stock to me. I think I had basically all torque management pulled the last go round. That kinda gets rid of the lil hesitation GM built in when you hit the go pedal. How it kind of goes then really kicks in. It give you the instant throttle response and feels way better. I tuned for high octane fuel, but more for my own curiosity really. Seems to run a bit stronger, but I can still run 87 without issue I have found and not feel much difference. I was able to get my gears and tire size matched up so it is ll accurate as well.

[HARDTRAILZ]

All the AIR system does is jumpstart the cat's operation by injecting unburned oxygen into the cat. Basically works the same as blowing on an ember to try to stoke a fire. Gets the cat working quicker than it otherwise would.

I understand the concept, but out of sheer curiosity...do you really think it is going to save the cat in the 30 seconds it runs occasionally? I really think it is fairly useless and complicated emissions to keep the greenies happy. I wonder if there are any studies on it?