Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

What did you do to your GMT today?

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by Moots1288 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:37 pm

navigator wrote:looks good man
thanks man
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by TBYODA » Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:34 pm

Matt why did you leave in the Panhard bracket?
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by Trail X » Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:40 pm

More horizontal bar = more vertical motion of axle over bumps.

Looks good Matt. What end links did you use?
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by Moots1288 » Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:12 pm

Trail X wrote:More horizontal bar = more vertical motion of axle over bumps.

Looks good Matt. What end links did you use?
The rod ends? The tube and rod ends are from ruff stuff specialties I posted the link up in my build thread. And I also left it it cause its easy enough to drill through. And actually didn't do much adjusting yet. It's pretty close got to drive a little bit more though.
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by Trail X » Sat Aug 16, 2014 7:37 am

Yeah, that's what I meant. I'll check out your build for the details.
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by gerbil21 » Tue Aug 19, 2014 9:35 am

Plast Dipped The whole grille, Rims and the lower plastic trim under the doors between the wheels
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by DirtyBacon04 » Tue Aug 19, 2014 7:05 pm

Found the passenger side floor board soaked in about a gallon of water...

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Driver side has been occasionally getting moist for months. Since i had the carpet up anyways, I went ahead and fixed that.

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This is where the leak was taking place.

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With the assistance of a squirt bottle filled with dyed water, we traced the leak to the bottom two hoses going through the firewall. Also, unclogged the drain tube with some compressed air and let out another 4-5 cups of water.

Also there was an active leak throug the same firewall, but i think it was two seperate leaks. One from clogged drain, one from deteriorated weatherseal.

Image

It went on for about 20 minutes straight with engine ON and heater ON full blast. Left the carpet out to monitor it, but no leaks thus far.
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by Moots1288 » Wed Aug 20, 2014 2:53 pm

What did you use to fix the leak on the drivers side?

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by Trail X » Wed Aug 20, 2014 3:48 pm

Got my new roof rack and new jerry can holder powder coated. Hope I can get them installed shortly.
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by Shdwdrgn » Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:02 pm

Trail X wrote:Got my new roof rack and new jerry can holder powder coated. Hope I can get them installed shortly.

What kind of price do you pay for small jobs like that? I have a motorcycle frame ready to be powder-coated, and I'm afraid of what it's going to cost.
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by Trail X » Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:25 pm

I have a REALLY good deal through my work, so I'm positive it isn't applicable to your situation.
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by Shdwdrgn » Wed Aug 20, 2014 5:45 pm

Can you move closer to me so I can get in on that deal? :) We have better mountains here!
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by Shdwdrgn » Wed Aug 20, 2014 11:24 pm

Woot! Received the 80amp breaker in the mail today! I was a bit nervous, several reviews said the unit arrived to them in pieces, but for $10 it seems pretty solid to me. Has a nice push-button to turn off the juice, and a swing-arm to reset the breaker, and the terminals appear to be solid brass. I'll pick up a couple more ring connectors tomorrow and get this wired in. Later on when I have more time I might just run a dedicated line up to the battery and mount the breaker under the hood, but this will provide some protection for now...

Does anyone know why they used an expensive mega-fuse for the 125amp line instead of a manual-reset breaker? The breaker is only twice the cost of the fuse (around $15 for a 125A). If/when I ever blow my fuse, it seems worthwhile to just replace it with a breaker attached to the side of the fuse box.
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by Trail X » Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:34 am

I've been meaning to follow up to my front diff failure with some pictures. Finally got some and figured out what happened. The results are somewhat interesting.

First, some broken ring gear teeth:

IMG_20140806_180759_454.jpg
Ring Gear 1


IMG_20140806_180806_256.jpg
Ring Gear 2


The pinion was completely frozen. I couldn't turn it no matter what I did.

IMG_20140806_180752_859.jpg
Pinion Broken


Upon attempting to extricate the pinion from the housing, I realized it was being held against not only rotation, but also against axial movement really well. Normally, you can hammer the pinion out of its bearing with a light hammer and a few whacks. This one required the 20lb sledge.

IMG_20140812_193314_077.jpg
Pinion Bearing


It seems the cage melted inside the bearing, seized up the pins, and then forced the pinion to attempt to rotate inside the inner race of the bearing until that galled up. My guess is that is why there are two distinct portions of ring gear teeth missing.

I should have also gotten better pictures of the housing. It punched the oil-pan side carrier bearing into the recess in the pan, put a huge crack in the exterior housing, and sheared the rear diff mounting tab (near the pinion) off.

Moral of this story - don't forget oil.
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by Moots1288 » Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:36 am

20lb sledge huh

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by DirtyBacon04 » Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:14 pm

Moots1288 wrote:What did you use to fix the leak on the drivers side?

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Good ol' fashioned Flex-Seal

very useful stuff.
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by Moots1288 » Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:03 pm

DirtyBacon04 wrote:
Moots1288 wrote:What did you use to fix the leak on the drivers side?

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Good ol' fashioned Flex-Seal

very useful stuff.


Yea, I need to grab something and do mine ASAP.
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by Trail X » Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:55 pm

Trail X wrote:Got my new roof rack and new jerry can holder powder coated. Hope I can get them installed shortly.


Got it all installed and wired up.

Image

I'm looking forward to seeing how the lights do at night.
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by navigator » Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:43 pm

ok, it is night, we need night photos :-)
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by v7guy » Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:47 pm

Any concern about blocking more flow to the radiator James?
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