KE7WOX wrote:Based on my personal experience I wouldn't use anything that is not guaranteed to be DEXCOOL certified / safe / whatever. Some oil change place put regular green coolant in my friend's STS (we think it was Big O) and we didn't discover it until it started puking coolant all over the parking lot (caused by his mom's poor driving skill - se hit a curb and broke something), then we realized it was green and not orange/pink, and then when he took it to the Cadillac place they also found out some damaged gaskets which had in turn damaged some sensor, and that was causing a failure that was not fully caused by the broken cooling system.
Compatible With Other Fluids
AMSOIL Antifreeze & Coolant is dyed neutral yellow and is compatible with all ethylene and propylene antifreeze and coolant formulations on the market, including DEX-Cool®, Sierra® and Zerex®. It is also compatible with fully formulated diesel anti-freezes and other organic acid technology (OAT) and hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulations.
I hope that won't be a big issue.bartonmd wrote:I use the Evans NPG+ in my motorcycle... Same basic type of "waterless propolene glycol coolant"... Interesting thing is; it boils at 270F under no pressure, but the glycol has a lower specific heat than water... Because of this, some automobiles need a higher capacity water pump to run the coolant through faster, and you will run hotter than before; though you won't boil coolant, and oil doesn't care as long as you're below ~350F... Oh, and if you have an engine that has hot spots in the water jacket and spot-boils coolant, making hot spots in the cylinder, causing pre-ignition (siamese bore small block 400, for instance), it pretty much stops that...
There are plusses and minuses to it, but if you're at all close to your cooling capacity (like we talked about at TECORE), I'd personally stay away from waterless stuff...
Mike
ETA: Scratch all that! I just saw that it was a mix coolant that you half with water...
Zero wrote:I have personally put that stuff in many high performance vehicles. It seems to work very well. No complaints. I had it in my heavily modified pickup and it worked out great for me.
I also get the stuff @ cost so let me know if you are interested and i can call amsoil and have it shipped to u most likly or find a warehouse near you that you can pick it up ur self @.
JamesDowning wrote:The higher boiling point was what initially led me to this option. Running hotter inside the engine produces a higher efficiency. So as long as the boiling point is higher than the engine running temp, and below the oil flash point... seems it would allow more efficient running. The only worry I have is the specific heat you mentioned. It would run hotter... but how much hotter is unknown.
To get everyone on the same page... in the last heat wave we've been having, my engine coolant has been getting up to 225 F during highway driving... not dangerous yet, but worrisome. I believe the root problem is the big headlights and bumper I have. It creates a wind deflection shield over the grille, so the airflow into the grille and over the radiator has been decreased some. Just looking for ways to ensure I don't boil my coolant.
Zero wrote:JD...if you are really think you may have a bit of a heat problem you want to get under control. You may want to switch to a more efficient radiator. Even if your air flow through the grill stayed the same, the rad would still be able to dissapate the heat on its own.
Id suggest looking at aluminum core rads....like the "be cool" rad. They have heat sink fins on the body that also double as mounting points for fans electronics whatever.
My point is, you need a radiator that has a high cooling ability. Just like adding / increase in the size of a trans cooler. If its running to hot, at more cooling surface and or increase the fluid capacity to make the thermal transfer more efficient.
Just my 2cents.
Or if you want to be a bit wild about it, get a functional cowl hood. It will help relieve the heat under the hood, also adding the rads efficiency.
bartonmd wrote:Or you could just remove the lights from in front of your grill...
JamesDowning wrote:bartonmd wrote:Or you could just remove the lights from in front of your grill...
Never!
JamesDowning wrote:Yeah, I wasn't really looking for a way to increase cooling so much as increase boiling point initially. It makes me feel better knowing it's 265F. For some reason I thought it was closer to 230.
