Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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by Trail X » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:14 pm

You figured me out.

Auto deflators are nice time savers, the PITA is adjusting them to your preferred pressure.
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by dirty anton » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:20 pm

like it,also like the use of the copper tubing. seems it can conform well and stay tucked away easier, less zip ties.
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by fishsticks » Mon Apr 11, 2011 10:01 pm

dirty anton wrote:like it,also like the use of the copper tubing. seems it can conform well and stay tucked away easier, less zip ties.


My big worry was getting rubber air lines too close to the exhaust manifold... but yeah, just a few zip ties to the body lift blocks and a couple other places.
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by djthumper » Tue Apr 12, 2011 1:54 am

If you went down the let side of the vehicle you could probably run it inside the frame and avoid the exhaust.
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by Harry Moto » Tue Apr 12, 2011 2:38 am

fishsticks wrote:Me likey! Will probably steal ideas from your build on this. :)


+1

Reading, looking at the pix, taking notes. :work:
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by Trail X » Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:17 pm

The TECORE 5 guys may know my compressor kicked the bucket after airing up my tires and some of Matt's tires. In reality it had probably done the equivalent of more cycles than that, because I had a air leak in my air system that was bleeding air.

Anyhow, I finally got around to tearing it down yesterday and found that the connecting rod had separated from the drive yolk. It's simply pressed into place.

I don't have any pictures of my fix, but I removed a bit of the yolk so that the motor output's D would press into the connecting rod D due to the force from a set screw. Again - should have taken pictures. But if anyone runs into a similar problem and wants pictorial help, I can always tear the compressor down again and take pics.

---------------

One takeaway from my experience with a OBA system, is that a smaller tank could be a benefit. Mine comes in a bit above 4 gallons. I'd maybe recommend one gallon, or a way to bypass the air tank. The benefit of the air tank basically runs out after the first two tires, because the tank gets down to the pressure of the tires. So now instead of airing up a 7 gallon tire, you're effectively airing up an 11 gallon tire. So whenever I revisit this system again, I think I will put in an option to bypass the tank once the tank's pressure decreases below a beneficial level.
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by fishsticks » Mon Nov 14, 2011 5:34 pm

JamesDowning wrote:The TECORE 5 guys may know my compressor kicked the bucket after airing up my tires and some of Matt's tires. In reality it had probably done the equivalent of more cycles than that, because I had a air leak in my air system that was bleeding air.

Anyhow, I finally got around to tearing it down yesterday and found that the connecting rod had separated from the drive yolk. It's simply pressed into place.

I don't have any pictures of my fix, but I removed a bit of the yolk so that the motor output's D would press into the connecting rod D due to the force from a set screw. Again - should have taken pictures. But if anyone runs into a similar problem and wants pictorial help, I can always tear the compressor down again and take pics.

---------------

One takeaway from my experience with a OBA system, is that a smaller tank could be a benefit. Mine comes in a bit above 4 gallons. I'd maybe recommend one gallon, or a way to bypass the air tank. The benefit of the air tank basically runs out after the first two tires, because the tank gets down to the pressure of the tires. So now instead of airing up a 7 gallon tire, you're effectively airing up an 11 gallon tire. So whenever I revisit this system again, I think I will put in an option to bypass the tank once the tank's pressure decreases below a beneficial level.



I vote for the bypass vs the smaller tank. Having a good size tank will give you enough air to set a bead on a tire.

That said, I understand what you mean. My 5 gal tank is good for one of my tires from 15 to 30ish.
07 Tacoma - Offroad stuff, 33s, C38-81 @ 12psi, 394whp/360wtq
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
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by Blazintrails03 » Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:23 am

Alright so I did a big party foul and PM'd JD some questions about this when I should've posted here originally. So I got the gasketed bulkhead for the hose going from the compressor through the sheetmetal to the tank and the one way valve to prevent back flow. Here's another question. Is the manifold what controls the compressor turning on automatically at certain levels or something else. Most of my wiring knowledge is radio based and cat5e/6 based haha
Last edited by Blazintrails03 on Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Trail X » Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:35 am

The manifold is just a block with holes in it. The pressure trigger is what signals the relay, which provides power to the compressor.

The pressure trigger is the item on the manifold that has the wires coming out of it.

Image
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by Blazintrails03 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 11:43 am

Thinking about it while working today I might just hard mount it where you did James and run the hose through the same way but just run it to the winch hole for the spare. Later on if I want to throw a tank under there I will. Also will probably put an adapter on the hose that came with the mv50 to extend a 25 foot coiled hose I get that way it will reach all 4 tires no problem. The spare will of course be carrier or roof mounted so I won't have to worry about blocking that hole
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by Trail X » Tue Apr 02, 2013 12:39 pm

It's fine running it without a tank. Just keep in mind that you do not want to run it with a hose attached that has a shutoff valve. If you do, you will likely blow your hose. You will at least need a blowoff valve in line.

Reading back through, I realized I never updated this thread. I did get a new MV50, and its been working much better than the old one and runs much faster. I think they have a fairly finite life span - and are nearly irreparable since they have very limited service parts. I had attempted to fix my old one twice, and neither time it held together for very long.

Glad I read back through it though - it reinforced my need for a tank bypass valve.
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by Blazintrails03 » Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:59 pm

JamesDowning wrote:It's fine running it without a tank. Just keep in mind that you do not want to run it with a hose attached that has a shutoff valve. If you do, you will likely blow your hose. You will at least need a blowoff valve in line.


I'm saying just hard mounted and lined to the bumper so I can just reach in, turn it on and use it, and then turn it off. I wouldn't have it on at all times. Would I still need the valve?
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by Trail X » Tue Apr 02, 2013 2:31 pm

All depends on what hose end you have to fill tires. If it has a valve, you would need the blowoff.
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