Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

SOLVED? running rough, ABS light on p0017

Something not working right?

by navigator » Fri Aug 14, 2015 12:45 pm

Hi folks, we are on our way home from Portsmouth Island and are having some issues . I got in the truck this morning and the ABS light came on along with the brake light an the tb sounds like it has a miss or bad gas. No engine light is on but the traction control lights are on. We ran through some deep water on Tuesday but I do not think it was even up to the doors. I figure it is a sensor of some kind that got wet. I haven't driven it since Tuesday. Oil,air filter,temp tranny fluid all look good. 2wd indicator is not lit up per normal. Been 20-30 highway miles and still the same. Transfer case sounds odd. Will try to check that fluid as well. Will check back in next stop. Thanks in advance for your help.
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by navigator » Fri Aug 14, 2015 1:03 pm

Ok, crawled back under there and the noise is coming from a little pump beside the transfer case,right under the driver seat. It is running even though the engine is off. It has two lines running to the front of the tb and two running toward the rear.
I disconnected the battery, will unplug the pump and see what is going on.
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by Karo » Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:26 pm

That is the abs pump. The abs system isn´t throwing codes you could read out easily. :-/
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by navigator » Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:56 pm

thanks Karo, I figured out it was the ABS pump by figuring out those were brake lines.
I pulled the ABS fuse to get the pump to shut off, very odd that it was running when the truck was off. We made it home, I did eventually get some codes, will look them up once I get unpacked.
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by navigator » Fri Aug 14, 2015 9:04 pm

ok, I had several codes today that I will look into tomorrow
P0014 Camshaft position actuator
P0017 CPAS and CPS out of sync
P0106 - Map Sensor
P0300-random misfire.

so I'll change the oil, clean the CPAS and Map and see what happens.
Then I will worry about the ABS pump.
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by beavercountyemt » Fri Aug 14, 2015 10:17 pm

i can't speak to the codes you posted, but the issue with the abs sounds like a bad abs sensor. Check them all and make sure the ends are clean and free of debris. Also use some sand paper on the end of the sensor. Make sure it's good and clean. I had the same issue as you and that fixed it.
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by navigator » Sat Aug 15, 2015 9:31 pm

Thanks Ben, that might be it. I expect it is possible salt water got to one of the sensors and could have corroded it.
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by navigator » Sat Aug 15, 2015 9:40 pm

OK, I have changed the oil, cleaned the MAF sensor and the CPAS and installed a new MAP sensor. Still running rough, kind of like it is "camming" at idle and a periodic miss sound while under way. P0017 is the only recurring code now outside of the P0300 which I expect is related. Will keep digging.
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by navigator » Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:21 am

Installed a new camshaft position actuator this morning. Drove a few miles, no code yet but still running rough. It actually stalled one time but cranked right back up. Anyone think the ABS pump issue could cause it to run rough? I pulled the fuse to keep the pump from running constantly.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:15 pm

Almost sounds like a bad coil but that should have thrown a code.

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by navigator » Thu Aug 20, 2015 7:54 am

Odd thing is it might run well for several seconds, then stumble. I'm wondering if something else got wet that just isn't throwing an OBDII code possibly a chassis code or something with the traction control.
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by Trail X » Tue Aug 25, 2015 10:26 am

Thinking about the brake system - I wonder if you have a vacuum leak. It could likely cause the MAP error, and it might be confusing the computer enough that its thinking the other major sensors are giving it screwy information. Is your engine stumble mainly at idle and not when you apply power? If its stumbling while cruising, try shifting to a lower engine gear that requires more rpm and see if that makes the issue better or worse. Unregulated air entering the intake plenum can really throw off engine computations. Its one of the few possibilities that I can think of that would kick off that many codes. Wish Roadie was here, I bet he might have seen this before.
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by navigator » Tue Aug 25, 2015 8:55 pm

Now that I have cleaned the CPS and MAF and replaced the CPAS and MAP, I get no codes now. I've driven 10-15 miles since those changes with no codes. It seems to runs rougher the more stress you put on it.
At idle you hardly notice.
If you are parked(N or P) and rev to about 2k rpms, it will after a few seconds ramp up to 2500 rpm and a few seconds later drop back down.
At cruising speed it isn't too bad, sometimes it seems like it is all better, under acceleration you can really tell it.
I'm going to take it and see if there are any chassis codes. For the ABS pump it is common for the EBCM to get wet and cause it to run constantly, there is a C code that is usually triggered for that. If I have that code (C0265 I think) I might get one out of a junker.

I did notice there is a vacuum tube toward the front of the engine near the intake side. It has a cap on it that was split. I repaired that split but no change.

I was thinking today about siphoning all the gas out and see if there is water in the tank, it acts a lot like it has water in the tank. We got gas right before going on the island the station was kind of old but looked like a high traffic station. My wife filled up her Jeep TJ though and it has had no issues. I know different engines handle things differently but I figure I only have a 1/2 tank, it might be worth siphoning the gas out.
The only thing is I can't get a hose into the tank. I'm using a long vacuum hose to try to get in there. I might try taking the filler neck off later this week and see if I can get a hose in that way.

I think my next steps are to
try to get the C codes read if any
drain the gas out to check for water
start with all low lying electrical connections and trying to disconnect and clean them and work my way up.
Check and see if I can find any other vacuum leaks.
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by KingBird » Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:46 pm

I'd also check the grounds right there on the frame rail on the driver's side of the vehicle. I broke one of my bolts while installing custom rock sliders and I had similar problems until I got home and got a good ground connection.

This won't fix your misfire woes.
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by KingBird » Sat Aug 29, 2015 7:49 pm

If you add fuel to it and it runs fine, odds are that your fuel pump has decided to come apart inside the tank. That happened with mine.
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by v7guy » Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:09 am

I'm kinda interested in this, it would appear the usual suspect are addressed.

Most of your issues sounded similar to mine after a good dunking, they resolved themselves after a bit of drying out.

The random misfire is particularly interesting. You don't generally see multiple cylinders giving you the finger on these things. Have you pulled the coils and checked for water/oil at each one? It's a pretty common issue.
As James had mentioned a vacuum leak at the manifold can really bugger things up as well.
How old are your plugs, have you pulled em to see how they look?

Have you checked fuel pressure, specifically while at higher rpms? Lil harder to check it under load, but with some tape and some sketchiness you can cobble together a method to get the gauge on the windshield for a short around the block drive.
I'd be looking at fracked up plugs or a fuel pump on it's way out at this point. The worsening symptoms at load is what steers me this direction.
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by Trail X » Mon Aug 31, 2015 4:21 pm

Yeah, I originally thought vac line when I thought it was worse at idle. Same would go with an exhaust leak, I think both of those get better under load at higher rpms.

Chris, good luck siphoning the gas, these tanks have an anti-siphon valve in there, which is why they get away with no lock or release on the gas door.
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by navigator » Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:37 am

I have not pulled plugs or coils yet, I figured they would throw a code of some sort. I've kind of put the misfire situation on hold until I get th ABS issue figured out just in case they are somehow related. I'm going to check the ground and if that doesn't work mail the EBCM off for repair. It is about $50 for the mail in repair with a lifetime warranty and if you buy a new/used one you have to get it reprogrammed by the dealer.

James, I figured there was some kind of block as I couldn't get a thin vacuum hose in the tank. I though I might try disconnecting the filler hose from the tank to see if I could get a hose in that way.I also haven't checked the pressure on the fuel pump. I need to read up on that and see what type of gauge I need for that.
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by navigator » Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:47 am

So I have been driving short runs trying to burn up the remaining fuel with no noticeable improvement. I let it idle for several hrs Saturday morning and then went for a short drive. During that drive I had no noticeable issues. I've driven several trips since then, with one about 20 miles and have occasionally had a minor hesitation upon take off but nothing else noticeable. I'm almost empty now, I think I will fill up with a tank of non-ethanol and see how it goes. I also haven't run the AC or defroster lately to make sure what seems like heavy condensation isn't wetting some sensor. I'm unsure at this point if it was bad gas or something finally drying out. As many times as I have pressure washed the underside and as many of you have driven through deep water, my guess is it was just bad gas and coincidental timing.
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by Trail X » Wed Sep 16, 2015 9:13 am

Bad gas is often blamed but I'd be wary to put it all on that.
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