Ignition Switch

[HARDTRAILZ]

Last couple days my iginition wont hit every time and I thought it was a loose cable or short, but checked around and it seems it is the ignition switch. Truck will run perfect once started, but it wont try to start every time and when it doesnt try to start, it is like the truck is dead.

I read the write-up in the other site and it seems pretty easy to replace, however, I thought I would ask to see if anyone here has any advice in part choice or installation. I am just starting to research, but don't know if dealer or aftermarket part is better.

Any help/advice is appreciated.

Thanks

Kyle

[The Roadie]

It was redesigned to address some of the reliability issues, but I still changed mine out when it got flaky (1 out of 50 start attempts failed). And I carry a spare I got for $5. I'd recommend any aftermarket one for $30 or less. I don't want to be jumping wires in the steering column on the trail in an emergency. Faster to swap switch guts.

[Trail X]

Kyle, what year is your vehicle? Your profile says other.

[HARDTRAILZ]

2006. Had an early Christmas but will be home later today or in the morning to try and fix it.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got the switch from Orielly Auto, BWS..i think.. and installed it Monday. Battery light stayed on at first, adjuststed it, and it did nothing, adjusted again and worked like new. Probably 5 or 6 starts on Monday without incident, then Tuesday morning, it is cold and it acts just as it had been. Started, ket run fo a few, then off for a few and restart. 3 out of 3 times I had a bit of issue with stating. After the drive to work, shut it off and it restarts just fine.

It is like the battery is unhooked, you got nothing, then all the lights will come on, then you can start it, but it wont always start and sometimes the lights cut out again like its a short or its unplugged. Battery is all good, I do have an aftermarket radio, which I plan to take out and re-install the factory one, since when this happens, the radio flickers and beeps and resets and sometimes wont turn on at all until you turn key all the way back and restart it.

Do I need to re-align the gear again, because I thought it was aligned this time, but I guess I could have been off by a tooth? Sound more like a short? Is there something else I need to look at?

It hasnt left me stranded yet, but it takes its sweet time to start sometimes. I hate to have it acting up when it is cold out. Help....

[Trail X]

Check your battery wire connections and tighten them. Temperamental wire connections can be a bear to trace because they don't show up with a multimeter. They generally only rear their ugly head when there's high current.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I checked Battery terminals and pulled fuses for extra rear power wire and stereo wire and lights. I will try completely diconnecting those wires and re tighten terminal. Should I try some dilectric grease or whatever that is, or is that not good for battery terminals?

The thing that makes a short hard to believe, is that once started, there are no hiccups, flashing lights, or anything. Since I got my truck the battery dummy gauge on the dash has shown a bit of fluxuation while driving, but it has not fluxuated more than normal.

I was wondering if the battery at near 4 years old with over 100,000 miles should be changed, but I hate to spend that money with the holiday expaenses.

[MrSmithsTB]

Check your battery wire connections and tighten them. Temperamental wire connections can be a bear to trace because they don't show up with a multimeter. They generally only rear their ugly head when there's high current.

Remove them and give a good scrub with a wire brush and maybe spray with brakleen. The corrosion on the side terminal batteries tends to build up in the threads, restricting healthy contact. Get inside the battery terminals as well. Check the terms at the megafuse.

[The Roadie]

Can you get a meter on the battery cable when it messes up, and catch it in the act? You say you turn the ignition switch, and no lights go on, and the dash doesn't light up? If you press the brake pedal right then, do the brake lights go on? Brake lights don't go through the ignition switch or anything - they're ALWAYS active even with the key out, so they are a good test of the raw battery function.

If you can get a meter on the ignition switch harness, here's what should be happening there:

RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:

White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:

Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START

[HARDTRAILZ]

It was nasty out last night, windy and raining, so I did the errands I had to do which included turning truck on and off about 5 seperate times. The first time starting it screwed around and didnt start and then once it did, no radio. All the next times until the last, it didnt hesitate once, Just started right up. The last time it acted dead, then came to life and started up. This morning...same thing.

I got the garage cleaned enough to get the truck in so I will try and figure it out tonight, Prolly clean terminals, change out radio to stock, and try moving the switch one tooth. Hopefully I get it figured out since it is snowing and windy and brutally cold out now.

If not, I will have to have my dad help me. I am not an electrical person, but he has restored and wired a couple cars, and he has a good meter. Only problem is he is 75 miles away.

[Excell]

I definitely agree with cleaning the terminals, but don't grease them with anything. IMO it's a good idea to pull and clean battery terminals annually.

[Trail X]

Good catch!

Should I try some dilectric grease or whatever that is, or is that not good for battery terminals?

Dieletric Grease is actually an insulator. You don't want this between your contacts. People don't grease their terminals to get better conduction, they do it to stop terminal corrosion and rust by keeping water and air off the metal.

[HARDTRAILZ]

:Iagree: Good catch!

Should I try some dilectric grease or whatever that is, or is that not good for battery terminals?

Dieletric Grease is actually an insulator. You don't want this between your contacts. People don't grease their terminals to get better conduction, they do it to stop terminal corrosion and rust by keeping water and air off the metal.

Yes. Good Catch on that. And thanks for explaining it James. It makes more sense now.

[OregTrailBlazin]

...... Prolly clean terminals, change out radio to stock, and try moving the switch one tooth......

Remember One thing at a time, if you do all this at once, You'll never know which one is the problem! Good luck!!

[HARDTRAILZ]

Actually with the nasty cold and a party coming this weekend, plus a trailvoy buddy and some other friends around tonight for chili, I did none of the previous idea. I did however on my couple needed stops on the journey home try something.

When I went to start it, I would turn the keyy all the way forward and hold it for 10 seconds or so after the initial fire. The radio stayed on, the start seemed smoother, so I am thinking that maybe I am a tooth off.

But the one thing at a time is good advice. I planned it that way, but life happened.

[Trail X]

I don't think that should make a difference. As I understand it, once the ignition switch gets the start signal from the key, it operates independently of the key signal in order to prevent over or under-starting the engine.

For instance, if you bump your key into start for half a second, the vehicle will still turn over until it starts.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Well, research on the OS pointed me to a dying battery. So I went and had it tested and 459 cranking amps...Not so good. So now I search for a dual terminal cheap battery. I found Everstart Maxx is the same as the Die Hard Gold, but no dual terminals. I figure cheap for now and try to figure a dual setup with the winch. anyone had any good luck with a cheap dual terminal battery?

Also...what and the pro/cons of removing the active cooling system{plastic box) and running a bigger battery?

[MrSmithsTB]

I see no cons to a dual terminal and losing the box.. Except for a shortened life because of running accessories like a winch/lights. If it were me, I would replace the battery with stock, and go for an aux battery setup inside the vehicle somewhere, to run all of the addons you plan on. That and a larger alternator.

[The Roadie]

I got rid of the box so I could use the top terminals for the winch, as recommended by Optima and the winch folks. Even if I kept the box, I'd use an AGM battery instead of normal plate-style, for the vibration resistance.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I read everywhere that any Optima younger than 2 years old is junk due to moving production to Mexico. I like odessey but too much cash for now. I thought Optima until the recent reviews, old reviews are good, but new suck. Any other similar batteries? I hear Napa has one, but have not found it yet.