This may help. Good luck.
http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... wd-system/
AWD Woes Driving Me Crazy
34 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
2008 TB Radflo coil overs, Z71 rear springs, 2" spacer, skyjacker N8030 shocks, LT285/75R16E Goodyear MTR
My Build ----- MY Youtube Channel
My Build ----- MY Youtube Channel
-
TBYODA - Moderator
- Posts: 1762
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:07 pm
- Location: NY, Rochester
- Name: Robert Sengillo
- Vehicle Year: 2008
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Limited Slip
- Rank: Offroad Rated
Needs duct tape???
Last edited by HARDTRAILZ on Sun Mar 23, 2014 8:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
they've always worked for me.
-
HARDTRAILZ - Moderator
- Posts: 6342
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 1:49 am
- Location: IN, Batesville
- Name: Kyle
- Vehicle Year: 2006
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
- Rank: Extreme Offroader
Diffs can break without the fragments getting ground up. But draining the fluid would be informative.
-
The Roadie - Founder
- Posts: 5011
- Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:29 pm
- Location: CA, Vista, San Diego County
- Name: Bill Carton
- Vehicle Year: 2004
- Vehicle: GMC Envoy
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ G80
- Rank: Expedition Guide
The front are not LSD...
they've always worked for me.
-
HARDTRAILZ - Moderator
- Posts: 6342
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 1:49 am
- Location: IN, Batesville
- Name: Kyle
- Vehicle Year: 2006
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
- Rank: Extreme Offroader
Did you reset the backlash and pinion depth when you replaced all the seals and bearings on the diff?
build thread
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
-
v7guy - Moderator
- Posts: 3712
- Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:17 pm
- Location: NY, long island
- Name: Jason
- Vehicle Year: 2004
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD
- Rank: Offroad Rated
KingBird wrote:Then what is the clutch-pack for?
Edit, never mind, I was looking at the wrong pics. I need a better organization system.
Then what could have been popping? Disconnect?
I got to ask when you replace all the seals and bearings did you re-set the mesh, backlash and pre-load on the ring and pinion. Because you should have not had any popping or crow hoping. Like Roadie said drain the diff to see if there are any metal in the oil and I would see if you can look inside.
2008 TB Radflo coil overs, Z71 rear springs, 2" spacer, skyjacker N8030 shocks, LT285/75R16E Goodyear MTR
My Build ----- MY Youtube Channel
My Build ----- MY Youtube Channel
-
TBYODA - Moderator
- Posts: 1762
- Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:07 pm
- Location: NY, Rochester
- Name: Robert Sengillo
- Vehicle Year: 2008
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Limited Slip
- Rank: Offroad Rated
Well the AWD has no disconnect, it's remotely possible that the bearings that support the CV and the intermediate shaft (the piece that goes through the oil pan) are worn. But that wouldn't cause you to have no power to the wheels. In the AWD the transfer case puts power to the front and both Axles are permanently connected by the sleeve... as a side note that's reason many of us has put the AWD sleeve in our disconnect, it removes one more mode of failure and spreads the load across the bearings of the intermediate shaft and the CV more evenly in the "disconnect housing" and at less of an angle.
So your basically down to two options here since you said the front driveshaft is turning...
One, both CV shaft tripots are broke/tripot stubs broke/intermediate shaft. I've seen a cracked tripot before (not on our vehicles) it should of been so obvious that you wouldn't of missed it. in this case the diff would be turning but the CV wouldn't
Two, the front diff is internally in pieces. Pinion and or ring gear missing teeth. If the front diff is getting power and neither CV shaft is (and they aren't really broke) then there's pretty much only this left.
You said earlier you put new bearings in the front diff, new bearings require a different preload on the pinion 14-19 inch lbs new vs 6-8 inch lbs used, you also have to realize that setting the when setting backlash just a 1/16th of a turn can change it by a good lil bit... "this is the number of turns it was at" isn't the way to do it.
You also stated it had no oil in it. Did anything else look amiss in there? Generally new or used, you're suppose to use a new crush sleeve every time. Given that you said you heard a nice crunch crunch, pop pop after feeling binding and then the binding stopped and eventually the crunch and pop stopped I'd be inclined to think it's time for a look at the inside of that diff.
So your basically down to two options here since you said the front driveshaft is turning...
One, both CV shaft tripots are broke/tripot stubs broke/intermediate shaft. I've seen a cracked tripot before (not on our vehicles) it should of been so obvious that you wouldn't of missed it. in this case the diff would be turning but the CV wouldn't
Two, the front diff is internally in pieces. Pinion and or ring gear missing teeth. If the front diff is getting power and neither CV shaft is (and they aren't really broke) then there's pretty much only this left.
You said earlier you put new bearings in the front diff, new bearings require a different preload on the pinion 14-19 inch lbs new vs 6-8 inch lbs used, you also have to realize that setting the when setting backlash just a 1/16th of a turn can change it by a good lil bit... "this is the number of turns it was at" isn't the way to do it.
You also stated it had no oil in it. Did anything else look amiss in there? Generally new or used, you're suppose to use a new crush sleeve every time. Given that you said you heard a nice crunch crunch, pop pop after feeling binding and then the binding stopped and eventually the crunch and pop stopped I'd be inclined to think it's time for a look at the inside of that diff.
build thread
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
-
v7guy - Moderator
- Posts: 3712
- Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:17 pm
- Location: NY, long island
- Name: Jason
- Vehicle Year: 2004
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD
- Rank: Offroad Rated
well if you decide you need a new front diff I got a couple 3.42 diffs layin around not doing anything.
build thread
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
All things in moderation, including moderation.
Some people never go crazy... what truly horrible lives they must lead
-
v7guy - Moderator
- Posts: 3712
- Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:17 pm
- Location: NY, long island
- Name: Jason
- Vehicle Year: 2004
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD
- Rank: Offroad Rated
-
KingBird - Trail-Blazer
- Posts: 411
- Joined: Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:30 pm
- Location: Lubbock Texas
- Name: Brian
- Vehicle Year: 2002
- Vehicle: Other GMT360/370
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ G80
Are you MAKING us ask how?KingBird wrote:Fixed it.
-
The Roadie - Founder
- Posts: 5011
- Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:29 pm
- Location: CA, Vista, San Diego County
- Name: Bill Carton
- Vehicle Year: 2004
- Vehicle: GMC Envoy
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ G80
- Rank: Expedition Guide
Duct tape, chewing gum, or diff swap?
they've always worked for me.
-
HARDTRAILZ - Moderator
- Posts: 6342
- Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 1:49 am
- Location: IN, Batesville
- Name: Kyle
- Vehicle Year: 2006
- Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
- DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
- Rank: Extreme Offroader
34 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2