Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

*SOLVED* no 4x4, no lights, no nothing!

Something not working right?

by The Roadie » Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:45 pm

List price used to be $11 per liter IIRC and you need two. Dealers that mark things up beyond list deserve to be shot, or shunned.
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by djthumper » Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:31 pm

I only paid $18 for 2 of them the last time I bought some.
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by Aries » Sat Mar 22, 2014 9:17 pm

DustinC1989 wrote:As far as I know, no kit. But the parts are available pretty readily

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-2367 ... 02-09.aspx
navigator wrote:AutoTrac II only which you can pretty much only get from the dealer.

I added four gts on my last order from Summit Racing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12378508
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by tarsh » Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:28 pm

:woot: Got everything in. 4wheel works again. Now to make a new cb antenna mount and mount my winch . Back to the drawing board .
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by navigator » Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:16 am

Nathan, in your build thread, you posted that there was a trick to getting the xfercase out and it went back in easily. Can you post any tips you came across? If you got several pics, it might make sense to do a write-up or at least add a few notes here or to your build thread.
It might also be good to change the title now that you have the issue nailed down.
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by tarsh » Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:50 pm

:coffee: No tricks really, but I can tell you what sizes you will need to get the job done . I used a jack and a one foot piece of 4x4 and used the floor jack to hold every thing up. Placed it on the very back of the trans pan, obviously not applying tons of Pressure to the pan to prevent damages to it. Next you will have drop the skid/ crossmember to gain room for working. Thus, the jack holding the weight of the trans and tcase.now you may remove the rear drive shaft. The front shaft is alittle tricky because I have never delt with that type of propshaft befor. I use a small prybar and some muscle to remove it, Once the ujoint was free. Fyi-where u remove the ujoint in front( looking towards the front of the vehicle) move the shaft just towards the drivers side. It alows a lot more room for pulling the lock ring side of the shaft off. Since both shafts are out I put new ujoints in and greased up both ends of the prop shafts( which will also fix the "bump when stoping issue we get") now you may lower the floor jack just enough to gain room for the upper bolts on the transfercas. Remove the bolts, there are 5 of them. 2 up top, 1 on each side and 1 on the bottom side and you will have to remove the trans mount to get at it.you will need a 15mm socked,1/2 inch drive and a 15mm wrench, it is very tight. And watch out for that trans mount, it's very sharp :hissyfit: .You may want to unplug all sensors befor dropping the case. I dropped mine first then unpluged them but I broke one of the speed sensors on the rear or "tail" of the tcase if you will, so be carefull because the clips to become brittle afte 156000 miles. I do not have any other pictures, BUT! I do want to open up my old case to see what exactly broke. Thanks to all who helped me figure this out.
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by tarsh » Mon Mar 24, 2014 12:54 pm

I have yet to drop the fluid Ann replace with new Autotrack2. Working 6 10s so everything is closed.
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by TBYODA » Mon Mar 24, 2014 7:44 pm

Amazon has autotrack II it is a little more but you getting shipped free on prime if you have it.
Image
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by tarsh » Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:19 pm

:idea: I'm makeing the ol' lady go get some tomorrow.
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by Cable810 » Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:29 pm

:hijack: I paid just over $17 bucks for 2 bottles at my dealership.
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by tarsh » Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:33 pm

Sweet. Vic caniver would sell such thing correct . I don't think a lasco would being all ford.
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by Chango » Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:46 pm

I bought mine at Napa. Some independent stores have/can get it.
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by tarsh » Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:50 pm

Ahh, good to know
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