So after hours of searching, I can't seem to find someone or an article that helps with my exact problem. Stay tuned, read on, it's going to get interesting.
Whilst my engine was out of the truck for a full rebuild, I also took the opportunity to air chisel out the old axle disconnect, and replace with a zinc chromate coated rebuilt disconnect that I bought on the interweb.
I also took the opportunity while everything was out of the truck to install a Lock-Rite Locker in the front differential.
In addition to the front driveline work, I also replaced suspension parts: Springs- 88's, CV Shafts, Ball Joints, Tie Rods, pretty much everything in the front end was rebuilt or replaced.
The only part that I did not replace, was the 4wd actuator.
From the day that I finished it, until now (almost two years later) while in 4wd the truck has had a wicked pull to the right under acceleration, then when I let off, it goes back to straight tracking.
It dawned on me the other day driving through the snow, that the passenger side front tire is not being driven equally, causing the pull to the right.
I had a friend watch in a slippery parking lot my front wheels, and I gave it a bit of gas to get the wheels to break loose on the ice, to see if both front wheels were spinning (only the driver side tire spun).
OK- so begins the diagnosing. 1. 4wd disconnect, 2. 4wd actuator, 3. Fuse to the actuator 4. Differential
1. The 4wd disconnect was rebuilt fresh when I bought it- I purchased a rebuild to avoid the ungodly cost of a brand new one (probably going to be my undoing).
2. I pulled the actuator tonight, cleaned it out in some parts washer, cleaned the 4 blade contacts with a connector cleaner file that I have, and re-installed it. (No dice, still same problem.)
3. Is there even a separate fuse that goes to the Actuator itself? Ive checked every fuse involved in the driveline/4wd system that I could find in both fuse boxes.
4. I am not convinced that I could have broken/damaged a new lock-rite beyond proper function in the short time that I have had the rebuild completed.
The rebuild was completed in May of 2012, and I am extremely conservative with my 4wd system. I don't ever run 4wd, even if the roads are snow covered,
mainly because I learned how to drive in a rear wheel drive, standard shift, Ford ranger. I am used to how 2wd feels in slippery conditions, therefore I don't use 4wd unless I ABSOLUTELY have to.
I also have never switched on the 4wd on dry pavement.
So to the readers, my direct questions are these-
What is the 4wd disconnect supposed to look like in the small slot where the actuator inserts in to it?
Attached are links to pictures showing it is completely closed off,
save for a small hole in the very bottom of the casting. To me, this does not make any sense as to the functionality of the 4wd disconnect system.
If the picture is correct, and this is how it should look, is it possible that the actuator itself is bad?
The research I have done shows that its very improbable that the actuator itself is bad.
Thoughts? Brainstorming? I need opinions- especially you guys that have the lock-rites installed. Do you also have a pull to the right under acceleration?
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215009.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215042.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215033.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215026.jpg