Somewhat of a unique problem.

[JustBlaze05]

So after hours of searching, I can't seem to find someone or an article that helps with my exact problem. Stay tuned, read on, it's going to get interesting.

Whilst my engine was out of the truck for a full rebuild, I also took the opportunity to air chisel out the old axle disconnect, and replace with a zinc chromate coated rebuilt disconnect that I bought on the interweb.

I also took the opportunity while everything was out of the truck to install a Lock-Rite Locker in the front differential.

In addition to the front driveline work, I also replaced suspension parts: Springs- 88's, CV Shafts, Ball Joints, Tie Rods, pretty much everything in the front end was rebuilt or replaced.

The only part that I did not replace, was the 4wd actuator.

From the day that I finished it, until now (almost two years later) while in 4wd the truck has had a wicked pull to the right under acceleration, then when I let off, it goes back to straight tracking.

It dawned on me the other day driving through the snow, that the passenger side front tire is not being driven equally, causing the pull to the right.

I had a friend watch in a slippery parking lot my front wheels, and I gave it a bit of gas to get the wheels to break loose on the ice, to see if both front wheels were spinning (only the driver side tire spun).

OK- so begins the diagnosing. 1. 4wd disconnect, 2. 4wd actuator, 3. Fuse to the actuator 4. Differential

1. The 4wd disconnect was rebuilt fresh when I bought it- I purchased a rebuild to avoid the ungodly cost of a brand new one (probably going to be my undoing).

2. I pulled the actuator tonight, cleaned it out in some parts washer, cleaned the 4 blade contacts with a connector cleaner file that I have, and re-installed it. (No dice, still same problem.)

3. Is there even a separate fuse that goes to the Actuator itself? Ive checked every fuse involved in the driveline/4wd system that I could find in both fuse boxes.

4. I am not convinced that I could have broken/damaged a new lock-rite beyond proper function in the short time that I have had the rebuild completed.
The rebuild was completed in May of 2012, and I am extremely conservative with my 4wd system. I don't ever run 4wd, even if the roads are snow covered,
mainly because I learned how to drive in a rear wheel drive, standard shift, Ford ranger. I am used to how 2wd feels in slippery conditions, therefore I don't use 4wd unless I ABSOLUTELY have to.
I also have never switched on the 4wd on dry pavement.

So to the readers, my direct questions are these-
What is the 4wd disconnect supposed to look like in the small slot where the actuator inserts in to it?

Attached are links to pictures showing it is completely closed off,
save for a small hole in the very bottom of the casting. To me, this does not make any sense as to the functionality of the 4wd disconnect system.

If the picture is correct, and this is how it should look, is it possible that the actuator itself is bad?
The research I have done shows that its very improbable that the actuator itself is bad.

Thoughts? Brainstorming? I need opinions- especially you guys that have the lock-rites installed. Do you also have a pull to the right under acceleration?


http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215009.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215042.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215033.jpg
http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t38 ... 215026.jpg

[The Roadie]

Rear fuse #48 runs the front axle actuator, and the "N" mode lamp on the switch. If the "N" doesn't light up red during the lamp test, you may have lost the fuse.

The actuator can fail to have power even if the fuse is OK, but you'd get a flashing light on the switch any time you moved out of 2HI mode. Because the actuator would be failing to obey a command.

The place where your actuator's plunger goes is blocked off?!?!?!?! How did you check the rebuild to see if worked when you put it in? You didn't take it apart to check the quality of the rebuild or even that they put in the right amount of new parts?

You should be able to push a pin punch or screwdriver into the hole and get the fork to move against mild spring pressure. Good functional test.

Does the actuator whine and extend its plunger if operated while in midair?

Normally I'd guess a pull to the right is EXCESS torque on the right tire, not less.

[JustBlaze05]

I will double check fuse #48 for sure.

The actuators plunger hole is blocked off, so that's definitely not supposed to be that way then.

Looks like I'm pulling apart my front end.

I would have had something to go off of had my disconnect not have been completely nuked to begin with,
I remember thinking when I put it in that it didn't look right. At the time I didn't quite understand the whole actuator/disconnect/driveshaft through oil pan deal....

Guess I still don't. Looks like I'm pulling the front end off the truck again

Thanks for the response Roadie, in regard to the pull to the right, its not really a pull. Hard to describe, more the fact that I am in 4wd and the right wheel is not being driven at all.
It torques the steering wheel so hard that If I were to take my hands off and hit the gas, I'd be in the ditch in a split second.

[v7guy]

No AWD sleeve?

Hasn't it been commented on that when the locrite engages there's a good pull?

[Trail X]

I will double check fuse #48 for sure.

The actuators plunger hole is blocked off, so that's definitely not supposed to be that way then.

Looks like I'm pulling apart my front end.

I would have had something to go off of had my disconnect not have been completely nuked to begin with,
I remember thinking when I put it in that it didn't look right. At the time I didn't quite understand the whole actuator/disconnect/driveshaft through oil pan deal....

Guess I still don't. Looks like I'm pulling the front end off the truck again

Thanks for the response Roadie, in regard to the pull to the right, its not really a pull. Hard to describe, more the fact that I am in 4wd and the right wheel is not being driven at all.
It torques the steering wheel so hard that If I were to take my hands off and hit the gas, I'd be in the ditch in a split second.

Your actuator hole looks correct to me from your first picture. What you are seeing inside the hole is the fork. The fork has a small grease circulation hole inside it's bore.



Have you gone through our 4WD diagnostic flow chart? It still somewhat applies even though you have a locker.
http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... wd-system/

The pull you describe does make it sound like it's only driving the left tire. Only three real options, provided your CV is intact.
A) Actuator is not locking up correctly (most likely)
B) Your locker is only locking on the left side (less likely)
C) You forgot to install the intermediate shaft (least likely)

If your actuator is toast, the sleeve is an easy fix. If you do that (or run through the diagnostic flowchart and have proper engagement of the system) and still find that you're still having pull issues (and checked to ensure the intermediate shaft is in there), then focus in on the locker.

[JustBlaze05]

I appreciate all the input guys. Up until 3am this morning diagnosing my 4wd using the flow chart and re-reading the disconnect write up.

After some testing it turns out my problem lies within the disconnect itself. I will be pulling it apart and doing the AWD sleeve and installing a zerk as JD did.

My actuator is functional, as well as the differential, at least to the left side tire.

I know I remembered to install the intermediate shaft lol

Ended up using a long ratchet extension and operating the fork of the disconnect to see if it would move in and out, which it did. Then re-installed the solenoid
that was confirmed to be working, placed it in 4wd and spun the right side tire. No connection to the left side, and scary grindy noises from inside the disconnect housing.

It's coming apart today, so I guess in short my problem for now is found. Will post more pictures when I tear down and rebuild.
I guess I just ruled out the disconnect being an issue since it was new, hadn't re-read any of the write ups on the 4wd system and instead was looking straight to the actuator
completely blind that I had destroyed my disconnect.

[The Roadie]

Sorry, we forgot you weren't from New Joisey.

Who did this rebuild anyway? Ebay vendor or what? We keep track of who the incompetent ones are.

[JustBlaze05]

Sorry, we forgot you weren't from New Joisey.

Who did this rebuild anyway? Ebay vendor or what? We keep track of who the incompetent ones are.

Yes it was an ebay vendor, I will get you his user ID if I can track it back.

I believe it was "am-autoparts".

[Trail X]

Well, it's also been two years. A disconnect on a lifted truck can easily degrade to dust in two years without constant monitoring of it's operation. You should have looked into this two years ago. I don't think we can cross off a vendor entirely based on a diagnosis two years later.

[HARDTRAILZ]

AM- Autoparts has treated me excellent. The minor issues I had were remedied quickly. They stand behind their warranties and will send a new part without making you have the truck down while shipping in the old one. I plan to order from them this week again actually.

[NC_IslandRunner]

AM- Autoparts has treated me excellent. The minor issues I had were remedied quickly. They stand behind their warranties and will send a new part without making you have the truck down while shipping in the old one. I plan to order from them this week again actually.

X2

I have used am-autoparts without issue to.

[JustBlaze05]

As JD said though it has been almost two years. The disconnect looked perfect when I installed it, like I said I did not split it to inspect the innards just installed it.

I do believe it did work when It was first installed, I just thought I had a different issue going on because I was unaware of the short life of these things on lifted trucks.

Thanks for all the input