Front passenger side wobble

[CNCwell]

While driving this morning the front end developed a vibration and wobbling noise on the passenger side. When the wheels are pointing forward it is barely noticeable. If the wheel is turned (going around a turn) it is much more pronounced. Any thoughts?

[Moots1288]

While driving this morning the front end developed a vibration and wobbling noise on the passenger side. When the wheels are pointing forward it is barely noticeable. If the wheel is turned (going around a turn) it is much more pronounced. Any thoughts?

Wheel hub. Does the sound get worse depending on which way you're turning as well. Ie. Does it get worse when you're making a right? Then the right tire wheel hub is no good

[Moots1288]

Lift the truck and rotate the tire or wobble the tire

[CNCwell]

While driving this morning the front end developed a vibration and wobbling noise on the passenger side. When the wheels are pointing forward it is barely noticeable. If the wheel is turned (going around a turn) it is much more pronounced. Any thoughts?

Wheel hub. Does the sound get worse depending on which way you're turning as well. Ie. Does it get worse when you're making a right? Then the right tire wheel hub is no good

You nailed it. Much worst when turning right.

[CNCwell]

It looks like Moog makes a good one. I'm headed to Advanced to get it now.

[The Roadie]

The consensus seems to be for Timken if you want longest life. YMMV.

[Moots1288]

I had a moog fail on me about 10k on the way to tecore but I have two moogs back in now

[Trail X]

Timken is the way to go, I've got 80k lifted miles on mine so far.... or you can do like some people on here and buy cheap ebay hubs and replace them yearly.

[v7guy]

I've been rocking a couple Timkens for a couple years and about 30k miles. They're still alright.

[Diacom]

Should this thread be moved to troubleshooting?

[mikekey]

Yes is should.

[Trail X]

Good call. Thanks for the heads up.

[CNCwell]

My bad guys. I was researching from my phone. When I didn't find anything I just sent a thread.

[CNCwell]

So I replaced the wheel hub this weekend. The problem is that I am not sure if the hub was the problem. When I pulled the tire the spacer was a bit loose and 5 of the 6 lugs were cross threaded. One was so bad that I had to saw one of the posts off. When I spun the hub after I removed it I didn't hear the normal rattling sound indicating that the bearing was gone. I'm not sure if this is a coincidence or not but I wanted to document this in case anyone else had a similar issue. I did check the other wheel spacers and they seemed fine.

[jonbo2002]

what did you do use an impact to install your spacers and wheels?

[The Roadie]

Did you do it or a shop? What torque did you use on your torque wrench? (100-105 ft-lbs?) Had you taken your wheels off in the first 500-1000 miles to check and retorque your spacer lug nuts?

Reminds me that I need to do that now I'm at just under 500 miles from new tire and spacer reinstallation.

[CNCwell]

Did you do it or a shop? What torque did you use on your torque wrench? (100-105 ft-lbs?) Had you taken your wheels off in the first 500-1000 miles to check and retorque your spacer lug nuts?

Reminds me that I need to do that now I'm at just under 500 miles from new tire and spacer reinstallation.

I put them on and torqued them to 103 ft-lbs. I ran them for about 200 miles before I had the new tires put on. I did have the guys at the tire shop check the torque when they put the new tires on. I failed to follow up and check them after 500 miles though. I will not make the same mistake again. Thanks everyone for the quick trouble shooting!

[Trail X]

Cross threading lug nuts and having them spin all the way down is pretty hard to do especially with the stock installation lead-in on the tip of the stud, so I'm very surprised it actually was cross threaded. Are you sure they were cross threaded and not just seized? Did you use anti-seize upon reinstall?

[CNCwell]

Cross threading lug nuts and having them spin all the way down is pretty hard to do especially with the stock installation lead-in on the tip of the stud, so I'm very surprised it actually was cross threaded. Are you sure they were cross threaded and not just seized? Did you use anti-seize upon reinstall?

After looking at the lugs and reading the ideas on here I have come up with a theory. I failed to give the spacers their due diligence. Because of this the lugs started to creep up the studs and loosen the spacer. The truck was driven 44 miles back to my home once the problem was noticed. I believe the constant banging of the tire/wheel assembly beating on the lugs during the trip caused them to do just that James. They seized. I took a second look at the lugs and noticed that the threads were disfigured top to bottom. The one thing that I still don't understand is this. The bottom third of the threads on the the lugs (closest to the bevel) were nearly smooth. This is what caused me to believe they had been cross threaded. It is all a moot point now. But for guys like me who haven't been doing this very long it is a lesson learned. MAKE SURE YOU RETORQUE EVERYTHING AFTER 500 MILES!

[mikekey]

I didn't see the word "loctite" anywhere in this thread, but I'm pretty sure my directions from Mark recommended using blue loctite on the threads. Which is what I do.