Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Transmission Rebuild Kit

Something not working right?

by Regulator1175 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:43 am

I am looking to attempt a complete rebuild on my transmission. I am curious if anyone has any experience and advice. I have watched a handful of youtube video's on rebuilding the 4L60E and it looks to be pretty straight forward.

I have been looking at various kits, and am finding some good prices on Ebay. Is this a case of "you get what you pay for" or can I really trust these kits to work?

Here is an example of what I am looking at.



Is there anything else that I would need that is not listed in that kit? Anything else I should consider upgrading while I have the trans out?
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:41 am

I'd consider installing a shift kit along with the rebuild kit. Also, now is your chance to upgrade to a deep serviceable pan.
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by mikekey » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:48 am

Frankly yes, I believe it is what you pay for and I'd avoid cheaper kits that are selling for the same price or in the same neighborhood. I bought my kit from Oregon Performance Transmission.

You can get the basic rebuild kit for $155 http://www.oregonperformancetransmissio ... E-4L60E-RB

Or a more heavy duty ended version http://www.oregonperformancetransmissio ... 4L60E-RBHP

I'd also recommend a few additional upgrades, such as the Torque converter and Corvette servo and shift kit. We have a torque converter from an SS in our's along with a a carbon clutch kit.
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by ErikSS » Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:27 pm

:Iagree: I don't do my own transmission work. I do almost everything else, but sometimes I feel it pays to let someone who does this for a living take a crack at it. v7guy seems to have a handle on Transmissions, you could ask him!
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by TBYODA » Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:06 pm

ErikSS wrote::Iagree: I don't do my own transmission work. I do almost everything else, but sometimes I feel it pays to let someone who does this for a living take a crack at it. v7guy seems to have a handle on Transmissions, you could ask him!
beside you get a warranty if they F it up.
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by mikekey » Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:11 pm

You only get partial warranty on 4x4 for 3 yrs. That's what we where given.
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by ErikSS » Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:12 pm

You must have hired a good builder! The best I could find was a 12 month warranty. I'm selectable 4x4 because of failed transmissions.... Thank GOD for warranty.
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by mikekey » Sun Sep 29, 2013 3:22 pm

I did, there is a pretty heavy SS scene here in Tampa Erik, and I went to the guy whose building 4L60E's and doing 4L80E swaps and had him build ours. We where the first 4WD Trailblazer his shop had done. Real great guys too, they had the thing done and back in our truck in 2 days.

We had tried the Jason route ourselves (with a shift kit) that exasperated a problem with the burned out clutches and we had to get a full rebuild.
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:30 pm

Thanks for the replies. I posted the same question up on GMT thinking that I would get more experienced advice there from the performance guys. So far there has yet to be a post there. :roll:

I appreciate the advice, after doing some more reading and research it appears that the Alto kit I linked to on Ebay is decent for a rebuild for daily driving, but will not hold up to higher demands. It makes sense to spend the extra $100 and get the high performance rebuild kit from Oregon Performance.

I do already have a shift kit and corvette servo that I picked up a few years ago. It has just been taking up space on the shelf until I could get around to doing the rebuild.

I have been thinking about upgrading the torque converter as well, just unsure of what to look at. There are a lot of available options and it is all Greek to me. Need to do more research to understand what I am researching I guess.
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by ErikSS » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:37 pm

I ended up with a stock converter. I felt it was all around best for me. Of coarse mine is from a 2500, but the point is the driveability. I had a higher stall in mine, loved it... kinda. I had to rev it up to get out of the driveway, parking spots, ect. The stock RPM converter makes me happy in every way except launch. I'd personally try to find a good converter at your OEM RPM. At a minimum I suggest flushing it (don't ask me how, I hire this stuff haha) to get all the metal out of the fluid that's in the converter. I'm not a Trans guy... And knowing you I imagine you know all of this... But hey! It's my $0.02 worth
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by mikekey » Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:59 pm

Actually for us with the gearing that you have and Iw I'll have a higher stall is a good thing. Check over on TBSSOwners, there is some good info floating around from guys more serious about performance than GMTNation. A lot of what you'd do to handle torque at the strip will work for your transmission offroad and towing. Although some things need not apply.
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:57 pm

Any suggestions on what a good stall rate would be for our use? It seems that the common recommendation for towing is 2000 rpm, but not sure if that can/should translate to off road applications as well.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:08 pm

If you dust tape the stall antenna to the canuutenater valve body singlet on the drivers rear passenger corner near the pirate flag you can use a 4750 rpm one, but if you dont cross your uncle brother with the flonator fluid vacuum lifter, could be better to run a 800 rpm. Depnds on the left side of the family tree times the weights on you rear pass tire, but not including the first row on the spare.
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by Regulator1175 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:09 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:If you dust tape the stall antenna to the canuutenater valve body singlet on the drivers rear passenger corner near the pirate flag you can use a 4750 rpm one, but if you dont cross your uncle brother with the flonator fluid vacuum lifter, could be better to run a 800 rpm. Depnds on the left side of the family tree times the weights on you rear pass tire, but not including the first row on the spare.


It is all so clear now, thanks! :thumbsup:

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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:14 pm

Figured you would understand the tech if i laid it out in late night garage terms.
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by jonbo2002 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:49 pm

wait!! Kyle did you just say uncle brother? what kinda family tree you got going there bro?

oh and Matt as for your stall speed question I know jack schmit when it comes to transmissions, but this thread will be helpful because I will be trying some things with mine once we are moved. So I am glad you started this project.
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by Regulator1175 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 2:55 pm

jonbo2002 wrote:wait!! Kyle did you just say uncle brother? what kinda family tree you got going there bro?


Moms sister is married, he is my uncle. (No blood relation) his mom marries my dad after the hit it off at the back holler reunion, that makes him my brother. Uncle-brother duh

Disclaimer: no this is not my family

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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:00 pm

Its the Aunt nephews that are real weird. Tree mighta been hit by a lightning tornado .
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by jonbo2002 » Mon Sep 30, 2013 3:07 pm

yall are too funny
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by Regulator1175 » Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:05 pm

So two days ago I was ready to pull the trigger on an Oregon Performance HD Master rebuild kit and 2000-2400 torque converter. Then I got this message from the same post on GMT. I am now second guessing my plan. Should I be?

[QUOTE=kawaholic;181272]First of all, this is NOT a job for the faint of heart... LOL I had no prior experience with automatic transmissions and I just did mine recently, it was an "interesting" journey but so far, so good. I've got about 1k miles on the rebuild and it hasn't blown up yet. :cool:

There are quite a few things missing from that kit that need to be addressed. The sun gear/ reaction shell is a known weakness in these trannys. Your accumulator pistons are most likely plastic. There are many upgrades available for the commonly known failures of these trannys. I'd say if you're looking to do a COMPLETE rebuild, that kit's falling a little short.

The kit I used cost significantly more than the one you have listed but it had EVERYTHING in it. The only other things I needed that didn't come in my kit was the reverse input drum and the large o-ring that seals the pump to the case. The o-ring I got with my kit was for an earlier style pump. The reverse input drum was no good in mine. Other than that and the 3-4 clutches being cooked, everything else looked pretty good for 150k miles.

Mine came from Dana at pro built automatics 700R4 & 4L60E Automatic transmissions specialists - ProBuilt. VERY complete kit that he puts together by hand. I went with the heavy duty kit for towing.

This is the parts list that came in my kit, along with a dvd that walks you through disassembly, parts inspection and reassembly. It also comes with very detailed instructions for installing the shift kit, new servo's, accumulators, and all the other upgraded parts.

Seal retainer
Late design seal
13-vane rotor with vanes, slide, rotor guide & pin assembly
Trans-Go steel rings & priming spring (under 5,500 rpm WOT)
New replacement stator support with extra wide bushings installed

"Clutches, Steels And Pressure Plates"
4 Borg-Warner reverse/input clutches .078
4 Reverse/input "low drag" Turbulator steels .078
1 Reverse waved steel (eliminates the belleville spring that tears up the inside of the drum)
5 Borg-Warner forward clutches .070
5 Forward steels .090
2 Borg-Warner overrun clutches .078
2 Overrun steels .091
5 Borg-Warner low/reverse clutches .087
5 Low/reverse "low drag" Turbulator steels .068

8 Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 3-4 clutches .080
3 3-4 steels .060
5 3-4 Steels .076
1 3-4 top pressure plate .128
1 3-4 bottom apply pressure plate .225
1 3-4 snap ring .062

Borg Warner dual cage 29 element sprag.
GM "heat treated" sunshell
Borg-Warner low/reverse roller assembly (late design)
Trans-Go (Hi-Rev) replacement forward springs & 3-4 springs
Transtech paper & rubber (gasket) kit
Transmission filter (OEM)
Bushing kit with 3 teflon
Thrust washer kit
Sealing ring kit
HD Bearing kit
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band
Corvette servo
Trans-Go Heavy Duty Shift kit, with .500 boost valve & w/accumulation for nice part throttle shifts
Vamac 3 lip rear seal
New steel molded rubber pistons for overrun, forward & 3-4
New aluminum 4th & forward accumulator pistons
New aluminum "modified" 2nd accumulator piston for smoother part throttle shifts
New oem 4th accumulator pin
New 2nd & Forward "hardened" (RC52) accumulator pins
New TransGo PWM eliminator valve

Dana told me I could use my original torque converter being that there was no metal in my pan but I couldn't bring myself to put the old one in after doing all that work. I wanted to go with one of the ones he recommends but I ended up just getting a remanufactured one locally from transtar for about $160.

When it was all said and done I was in for right at $1k for the kit, reverse input drum, pump o-ring, torque converter and 12 quarts of fluid.

HTH, Tom[/QUOTE]
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.
So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
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