[Solved] Overheating while driving

[Trail X]

I'm not convinced that its your water pump. If it wasn't circulating any water, you'd just have steam instead of coolant. It doesn't circulate much at idle, and a hot top hose and a cool lower hose seems to say that its working properly and that it IS circulating some coolant.

A good way to test that flow is present is to squeese the hose with your hand and rev the engine after its been running for a while. When you rev the engine you should feel a rush of fluid.

[drburke]

After thinking about it, I wasn't too sure either. All my cooling system knowledge comes from my Camaro; upon startup, the rad would flow immediately and you could see it with the cap off. Because I didn't see that here, I immediate concluded something was wrong. Upon googling, talking, and thinking, I wasn't convinced. I haven't installed the water pump yet because of that. The fact that 1.) shifting to 3rd seems to cool the engine a tiny bit (but not the trans) and 2.) James' test of revving and feeling water rush through the hose proved true, I'm not sure on anything yet.

I ordered the fan clutch, and I think that's my first step towards fixing this, as Dave and Moots have said. Water pump will probably go in at the same time, because why the hell not. If it ain't those two, I may look into the radiator next.

[drburke]

Fan clutch and new water pump installed. Did not help at all. Highway temps found it self at 225/230, city (on the way back) 225/240. I have no clue now.

[Moots1288]

Fan clutch and new water pump installed. Did not help at all. Highway temps found it self at 225/230, city (on the way back) 225/240. I have no clue now.

did you check and make sure all the air bubbles are out and the fluid is full?

[drburke]

I was under the assumption that the I6s really don't have a way to let air bubbles as it doesn't tend to collect any. Other than removing the rad cap and letting it flow to temp, I'm not sure of another way to bleed it (yes I did this). Fluid is full.

Side note:
- I could stop the new fan clutch with my hand at idle. need to verify at temp, this was at cold.
- Any time the engine is 220+, the oil pressure/check gauges acts up when idling. When rolling, it's fine (probably an unrelated issue).

[Moots1288]

I was under the assumption that the I6s really don't have a way to let air bubbles as it doesn't tend to collect any. Other than removing the rad cap and letting it flow to temp, I'm not sure of another way to bleed it (yes I did this). Fluid is full.

Side note:
- I could stop the new fan clutch with my hand at idle. need to verify at temp, this was at cold.
- Any time the engine is 220+, the oil pressure/check gauges acts up when idling. When rolling, it's fine (probably an unrelated issue).

Did you use gm clutch?

[Trail X]

Check those other trans codes I told you to check.

[drburke]

Sorry for lack of update. Day after I fixed the issue, the transmission lost 3rd and 4th gear. Radiator replacement solved the issue. There must have been a clog in the line somewhere. Ran perfect afterwards. I updated the first post so future readers will have a concise view of the problem and the solution.