Cam shaft position sensor

[2000sdime]

So my check engine light was on, I checked the code it was the cam position code, so I replaced the cam position sensor with battery disconnected, after changing the sensor I hooked the battery back up, let it sit for a min as I went inside to eat came out to start it, no more check light but some idle issues, let it run for a bit idle went back to normal then since it was cold out I turned the heat on, rough idle came back let it run for a bit rough idle proceeded the same, all the way to stalling started it back up still rough idle, turned heat off, no more rough idle, so basically I only get a rough idle when the heat is on, does anyone know what could cause this, or does it take longer for the computer to recognize the new sensor? Please help

[navigator]

I had mine go bad, got a new one and seems like a week later it went bad, so bad that I had to stick the original one back in. The dealer made it good though. The one I have now has been good for a couple years now.

If you aren't throwing codes, I would drive it a little and see if it clears up. It seems like mine had a rough idle for a couple minutes but not long. Mine went out in the summer but I don't remember the AC having any effect. If you keep having issues, I might take it back and get a new one.

[The Roadie]

... battery disconnected... hooked the battery back up... rough idle ...heat off, no more rough idle, ...

Classic, classic dirty throttle body behavior. $5 and a half hour to fix it, plus a little bit driving around to teach the PCM the clean throttle body response.

http://gmtnation.com/content/how-clean- ... -body-120/

[2000sdime]

It had no rough idle symptoms or stalling before changing the cam sensor

[The Roadie]

It had no rough idle symptoms or stalling before changing the cam sensor

The trigger event was disconnecting the battery. Trust me. Also recommend cleaning it every 30K from now on to prevent problems after future battery disconnections or discharges.

[2000sdime]

Alright, if it don't clear up by Friday ill clean the TB and go from there

[2000sdime]

But it is Wierd it only does it when I turn the heat on, any reasoning behind that
Without the heat on it can run for an hour with no hiccups/glitches
But as soon as I turn the heat on the idle starts goin nuts

[fishsticks]

I'm guessing heat = defrost.

Defrost cycles the AC compressor to dry the air.

AC compressor cycling is what pulls the idle down. It gets bad when the TB is dirty.

It really doesn't "clear up."

[2000sdime]

Update: it did clear up today, no more rough idle with or without heat/defrost on
But it still wouldn't hurt to clean the TB here in the near future, thanks for the advice and help

[The Roadie]

Very rarely, driving around for a bit will allow the PCM to relearn the dirty throttle body's behavior. It isn't typical, though. And it's coddling a throttle body that's just crying out to be cleaned.

[2000sdime]

Yeah I'm still gonna clean it within the next week or so, to prevent any problems down the road
Probably do it while I do the oil change

[2000sdime]

Update: so after changing the cam position sensor I had the check engine light come back on with codes P1345 and P0014 I thought ok no problem just some sensors not workin together and my timing is off no biggie, went and bought the cam solenoid and crank sensor after it died several times and died on the way to the parts store and wouldn't start and had to call upon friends for a ride and a trailer , I did have some knocking and thought that may be cause the timing is off, got home got it to start knocking was getting worse and after I shut it off it wouldn't start , I was like "uh oh", then I found that my cam position sensor was loose I was like "sweet that's it" nope I was wrong it still would start even after haveing the battery disconnected for awhile, so I disconected the battery, pulled the new sensor out and l put the old one back in and cleaned the throttle body and changed the oil, re connected the battery wah la it started,still knocking like a mo fo tho, oh and there was oil and gold flake on the cam sensor I pulled out, I let it run for 10min drove it lightly for 10min no new codes but still knocking and now squeeking, idle is good oil pressure is good all seems to be running smoothly but still knocking and squeeking and progressively getting worse and I have gold flake in the oil on my dip stick so now I'm thinking engine is done time to rebuild, I'm thinking crank bearings, wrist pins or a broken piston, sounds more like a rod knocking now that it's gotten worse
LMK if you guys may have some better news other than an engine rebuild/replacement

[2000sdime]

Sorry for the wording and punctuation, hope you can understand it, my trailblazer has me to the point of drinking and I'm a lil tipsy right now cuz I'm at my wits end with this thing
But don't worry I'm not working on it right now, I'm sitting in my thinkin chair doin some drinking and reading

[TangoBravo]

First thought.... Cam position actuator syliniod(sp). But the shavings lead more to a walking cam. If the cam moves enough, it can cause misreads with the cam sensor if I am remembering correctly.

[2000sdime]

The clunking/knocking noise sounds like bottom end

[2000sdime]

The last time the code popped up, it said bank 1 timing advance, so I'm assuming cylinder 1 is where the noise is coming from whether it be bearings or a rod I still don't know
I mean the noise is pretty loud

[2000sdime]

http://youtu.be/iT4mQa8_YH0

This is the same exact noise mine is making
I would start mine and record it but I'm scared that ill make the problem worse, but this is pretty much the exact noise it's making, clunking and chirping and everything

[2000sdime]

Maybe a lil worse tho

[TangoBravo]

I had a bank 1 advance code when my CPAS went out. It was explained to me that we dont have banks if you have an I-6 so default is bank one. What happened was my CPAS went out and caused an over advanced timing issue. Truck run like crap(when it ran at all) and made alot of noise. Much like what you describe. What really concerns me is your sounds are explained to be much louder then mine. Also the brass shavings are something I didnt have and I know for sure you arent the first to have that spacific issue, so a search should do ya good. If I recall the shavings are related to a cam "walking" issue.

[2000sdime]

Yeah I found a thread on gmtnation where someone was haveing the same trouble codes and some gold flake like mine but never described any loud noises, and I think his ended up being just the pigtail on the crank sensor, and mine isn't throwing any codes anymore which has me concerned, cuz that was my first thought was the timing was jacked but the more I listen to it, it sounds like a spun bearing,
Do you think I should try to see if the CPAS will fix it or just save my money since its not throwing any codes but still has the clunk/knock of a spun bearing or rod