SOLVED - odd rattle from passenger side - wheel bearing

[navigator]

Hi folks, I'm a little late getting an alignment and my front tires are wearing a little uneven, getting a little noise.
I've been waiting on replacing the struts to get an alignment. I noticed the past couple times I drove I was getting a rattling but the tires were roaring so bad I couldn't really hear it that well.
Yesterday I replaced the struts and rotated my tires and I can still hear the rattling.
The rattling seems consistent at about 38, 48 and 52 mph. It seems to increase with speed. It doesn't seem to make a noticeable difference if I am accelerating or decelerating or turning in a curve.
It is coming from my front passenger side. Everything i can see and grab under there is tight. I do notice it seems that the passenger CV axle has a little more play than the driver side if I try to wiggle it. I'm thinking that outer bearing in my disconnect is going/gone. I haven't had any issues with 4WD yet that I am aware of.

I've read through several of the disconnect threads and thing this is my problem but want a few opinions before I tear into it. I'm expecting I'll find I at least need an outer bearing and seal, maybe more.

I took a little video of the noise to see if any of you can recognize the rattle.
Notice the noise at the 10,39,46,1:04,1:26 and 1:35 marks.
After spending all day yesterday replacing the struts and flipping the UCA's, I dread the thought of tearing into my disconnect.

[Trail X]

Sounds more like a heat shield rattle to me.

I did have a rattle in my disconnect, but it was only noticeable with windows down, and seemed to happen only at lower speed.

You can inspect your outer-most bearing without removing the disconnect. Just remove the CV. If it's crushed, missing rollers, or dry, it could be the culprit.

[navigator]

thanks James, I had the windows down. You can barely hear it with the windows up.
Hopefully it is just the heat shield but it is very consistent at certain speeds.
I get no noise until I get about 35, I hear it from about 35-38 and 45-48 and then from about 52-53.
I've not been any faster.
I'll check the shield see if it is loose.
I need to pull the CV and grease that bearing anyway.

[Stoked]

Check that the transmission cooler lines are snapped into place behind the radiator (passenger side).

[bgwolfpack]

This sounds and acts like a rattle, not anything bad. (Remember, my ears are worse then your audio.)

I had one sort of like this that drove me crazy for a few miles once, turned out to be a large piece of gravel sitting on top of the muffler.

Good luck, hope it's nothing.

[navigator]

ok, the heat shield is solid and the tranny lines appear to be snapped in place.
They have very little wiggle when I shake them.

[navigator]

This sounds and acts like a rattle, not anything bad. (Remember, my ears are worse then your audio.)

I had one sort of like this that drove me crazy for a few miles once, turned out to be a large piece of gravel sitting on top of the muffler.

Good luck, hope it's nothing.

it could be something like that but the "rattle" sounds rotational in nature if that makes any sense.
If I shake the CV lightly it seems pretty tight but If I give it a good shake it does have some play in it.

Could a bad alignment cause it?
If I get it aligned and have to pull the splined disconnect out will I have to get it re-aligned?

[Trail X]

Take a video of the CV shaft when you shake it. Sometimes it's the best way to visualize things.

I don't see any way that an alignment could create a rattle.

You will not have to get it realigned. The only things that MAY require alignment are changes to the UCA, LCA, tie rods or ride height. The disconnect has no bearing on the position that the wheels are held.

[navigator]

thanks James, I didn't think so but couldn't remember if I had to pull out the spring/strut to get the axle out or not.
We have to go to town today, I was thinking about dropping it off to get an alignment. I might wait a week or so for things to settle, re-tighten and then do it.
In the mean time I'll try to figure out what the rattle is.

[Trail X]

Even if you did have to pull the strut (which may make it easier for you!) you wouldn't need to do an alignment. You wouldn't be changing anything.

[navigator]

I pulled the wheels off today and tried shaking my axles, they are both really tight side to side. The only real play seems to be if I shake from the disconnect toward the hub (in and out) which I expect.
I tried checking the wheel bearings but there was no real play like I have seen in jeeps. When turning the wheels by hand the only thing I could hear sounded like the pads on the rotor. I pulled my passenger side hub off anyway.
When I spin it I can tell there is a little more resistance and not a smooth as I would expect and I expect with the weight of the vehicle it would be worse.

I searched through some threads here and ended up ordering a set(2) of hubs with the ABS sensors from an ebay dealer for $76. I know they are cheap, but the seller had like 91k reviews and like 99.8% were positive. When looking over the ebay negs for the seller most were the person ordering the wrong part anyway. I'll give them a try and see if that solves my issue and let everyone know.

[Nakashige]

I have that same rattle after replacing my disconnect and actuator

[Trail X]

Chris, I hope those help you, but honestly that sound didn't sound like a wheel bearing.

[navigator]

yeah, I don't think so either. I had been getting a roaring that has been getting worse. I could tell my tires were wearing uneven and needed rotating. Since I replaced my struts though and rotated tires I can still hear the roaring coming from the front, the rear is pretty quiet. I'm pretty sure the rattling isn't my bearings but I think they are going as well.

When I had the passenger hub off I shook the axle good and there was really no side to side play in it. I might pull it when my hubs come in and take a further look to see if I can tell anything. I need to go read up on pulling the axle because it wouldn't just slide out like the jeeps would.

[navigator]

ok, the new bearings solved all of my odd noises, my TB sounds like new again.

[DirtyBacon04]

glad to hear, chris. This thread, hopefully, will empower others to properly diagnose their own discrepency, and not have to bug everyone when the answers are right in front of them. Great thread.

[navigator]

just an update, I put on the eBay hubs(from autoandart) in late Jan/Early Feb of 2012 and I think they are roaring again, time for another set. I expect I have about 15-18k miles or so pretty easy miles on them.
I now see them as cheap as $72 for a pair on ebay. At <$75 per pair, I think I will keep using them and change them every year if needed.

[Gordinho80]

I've got those hubs in my fronts as well. They wear out kind of quick, like you said. I also have the big 33s on my wheels, which doesn't help them last any longer.

I'm due to replace mine again... Rock Auto has cheapos for $50 each... and Timkens for $140 each.

The question is... will the Timkens last 4 times longer than the eBay units? I don't know.

[navigator]

I've got those hubs in my fronts as well. They wear out kind of quick, like you said. I also have the big 33s on my wheels, which doesn't help them last any longer.

I'm due to replace mine again... Rock Auto has cheapos for $50 each... and Timkens for $140 each.

The question is... will the Timkens last 4 times longer than the eBay units? I don't know.

My thoughts exactly...

[The Roadie]

I guess nobody's worried that the cheap ones might die DURING an expedition and let the wheel fall off? You might carry spare hubs, but do you have enough lug nuts and a spare spacer/adapter when the outer race breaks off and takes the goodies with it and the tire rolls off a mountain?