For the $30 it will cost at the aftermarket stores, it's pretty much not worth your time to try to test it. Unless the intermittent failure turns into a permanent one. The failure rate is horrible, and if it's not dead now it will be later on, and I predict it will be 20 miles from pavement. It's even more vitally important for an offroader to have a reliable switch than a mall queen. I changed mine out when it showed the FIRST hint of failure, and I bought a spare on Ebay for $5 and carry that around to sell for $100 to somebody who didn't carry their own spare 20 miles from pavement.
But if you DO want to throw a voltmeter on it:
RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:
White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START
RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:
Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START
That said, you could always have a flaky battery or fuse block wiring, because the radio does NOT have switchte power. It gets fed straight from the battery and gets turned on and off by a data packet from the BCM.
But unless and until you have a known-good ignition switch, the fault could be as subtle as the ignition switch confusing the BCM and causing an odd reset.