Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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by jhmeg2 » Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:58 pm

Hey all, been a long while since I have been in here, a lot going on in life. But I got stopped for my tires. I need flares bad. I am running 35x12.50 Cooper sst rubber. Any help is good. I had made some makes shift ones but they didn't pass. Please help. I heard something about the Jeep ones fitting. ...
2003 LTZ-3" suspension-3"body-Massive rear upper/lower-pan hard bar-Bilstien HD struts-Skyjacker 7000 shocks-Micky Thompson 15"W/-35-12.5-15 STT-Barton front bumper, oil and radiator skids-turbo mufler-And then theres the audio
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by DirtyBacon04 » Tue Sep 16, 2014 12:21 am

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by TuckerJack » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:42 pm

(mason9905) I must say, this is probably the sexiest mall rated build on the forum... No homo. I don't know why, but train horns and a cam are just beautiful!
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:33 am

Grimor:

My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
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When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.
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by Grimor » Tue Dec 09, 2014 1:49 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:

My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
__________________________________

When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.


I did, the lines on the body are good, everything lines up. I think the frame either got tweaked when the truck bounced off the pole last winter, pr it's been in a wreck before. I think the hood and drivers door got repainted at some point before I got the truck. Running stock tires, you have a lot of room to be off and not notice a difference. Running 34"+ wheels or welding on a bumper you really start to see stuff not lining up.
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by bartonmd » Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:07 pm

Grimor wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:

My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
__________________________________

When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.


I did, the lines on the body are good, everything lines up. I think the frame either got tweaked when the truck bounced off the pole last winter, pr it's been in a wreck before. I think the hood and drivers door got repainted at some point before I got the truck. Running stock tires, you have a lot of room to be off and not notice a difference. Running 34"+ wheels or welding on a bumper you really start to see stuff not lining up.

The lines on the body will always be good, because the body is one complete structure and the frame is separate. A misaligned body and frame won't show up in door and hood gaps. Where you really see it is where the frame mounted front and rear bumpers meet the body.
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by Grimor » Sun Dec 14, 2014 2:54 pm

bartonmd wrote:
Grimor wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:Grimor:

My frame and body do not align like they should, so the drivers side wing is actually trimmed about 1-1/2" forward to line up with the fender. The fab guy did a good job of boxing the front near the head lights to make it look good though.
__________________________________

When you did the body lift did you leave the bolts loose and drive a bit to let things shift and settle? It really helps keep everything trued up.


I did, the lines on the body are good, everything lines up. I think the frame either got tweaked when the truck bounced off the pole last winter, pr it's been in a wreck before. I think the hood and drivers door got repainted at some point before I got the truck. Running stock tires, you have a lot of room to be off and not notice a difference. Running 34"+ wheels or welding on a bumper you really start to see stuff not lining up.

The lines on the body will always be good, because the body is one complete structure and the frame is separate. A misaligned body and frame won't show up in door and hood gaps. Where you really see it is where the frame mounted front and rear bumpers meet the body.

i guess i could clarify a bit. according to the measurements when i had my frame checked, the front driver side rail is up and back some. every other part of the truck for frame and body line up
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by bartonmd » Sun Dec 14, 2014 3:33 pm

Grimor wrote:i guess i could clarify a bit. according to the measurements when i had my frame checked, the front driver side rail is up and back some. every other part of the truck for frame and body line up


Oh, OK. gotcha!

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by ErikSS » Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:35 pm

Tony, I have some questions about your build.
Do you really plan to go SAS and only have 35" tires? I was recently picked on for considering SAS and only 37" tires... lol
Are you going SAS and only 3.73 gears? Most people who go SAS also gear much lower than that.

You're considering a 6.0 swap. Are you considering the LS2 TBSS engine, or the LQ9 truck engine? Either would be a Very expensive venture. You're transmission would bolt up, but probably not hold up to the additional power. I also doubt you're I6 transfer case would hold up to either engine also. If you're going to do this, you'll probably need a donor truck. You'll need PCM, Transmission Control Module, Transfer case Control Module, as well as the engine, transmission, transfer case and adjusted or changed drive shafts. There are many other parts you would need to change or adjust. Mine started with a 6.0 and it was still a PITA. lol

I like your ambition! I'd be your biggest cheerleader if you tried the 4 link front suspension as that's what I would most like. I do question the Dana 44 axle. I would encourage a Dana 60.
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by anthonyl79 » Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:39 pm

ErikSS wrote:Tony, I have some questions about your build.
Do you really plan to go SAS and only have 35" tires? I was recently picked on for considering SAS and only 37" tires... lol
Are you going SAS and only 3.73 gears? Most people who go SAS also gear much lower than that.

You're considering a 6.0 swap. Are you considering the LS2 TBSS engine, or the LQ9 truck engine? Either would be a Very expensive venture. You're transmission would bolt up, but probably not hold up to the additional power. I also doubt you're I6 transfer case would hold up to either engine also. If you're going to do this, you'll probably need a donor truck. You'll need PCM, Transmission Control Module, Transfer case Control Module, as well as the engine, transmission, transfer case and adjusted or changed drive shafts. There are many other parts you would need to change or adjust. Mine started with a 6.0 and it was still a PITA. lol

I like your ambition! I'd be your biggest cheerleader if you tried the 4 link front suspension as that's what I would most like. I do question the Dana 44 axle. I would encourage a Dana 60.


I am planning the SAS swap with only 35" tires as of right now. Can always go bigger on tires. Well the 3.73 on a 35, I should probably go lower, but for the start I will just stick to what is in the rear, and the front that I picked up came with 3.73 already. That is something that I can do down the road as well. The 6.0 swap I will probably just get the LQ4, I dont want the LQ9 as the compression is higher and if I venture down the road of a supercharger I dont want the extra compression. I figured the LQ4 or the LQ9 is more available and cheaper than the LS2. There is a guy that sells them complete with harness and ECM for $700, so just waiting for him to get one in.

Transmission, that will come out and be taken to a friend that has a transmission shop. He is gonna change out a couple of things inside to make it hold up, but they did use the 4l60 behind the V8 with no problem stock. But I do have an issue with the transmission already with the turbine speed sensor cutting out do to to much end play, so the cruise control wont stay engaged as of now.

The transfer case I will change out at the time of the Dana 44. Gonna run the 231 or 241 T-case, what ever my buddy happens to have laying around. That will get a SYE kit. http://www.jbconversions.com/ I am gonna run a CV front drive shaft due to the angle of the driveshaft.

The four link is gonna happen, no leaf springs here. That would be too easy. There is another guy here that is running and LS1 and a four link in his blazer. I have not seen it, but it is a friend of a friends that lives an hour away. Next time its in town I am suppose to get a call and I'm gonna take some pics.

I do have some friends that deal in the auto repair business, so as far as parts like the trans and t-case I kinda of have it made.
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by ErikSS » Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:54 pm

As far as I know, the 4l60e was behind the 5.3 but not the 6.0. I lost 4 before I went to a 4L80E. Hopefully you have better luck than I had.

What rear axle do you have? The SS 14 bolt is almost a bolt in. Just a U joint and shortening the drive shaft.

Why do you want to stay with such a small tire? So you can keep the gear ratio?
There is a SAS Trailblazer on a Dana 44. It seems he kind of regretted not going with the 60. So, why would you go with that axle?

I'm curious what you will have for roof height with this set up though. Honestly, despite my questions, it isn't terribly far off from the set up I'm considering. I am thinking it's possible to do what you're explaining and keeping the roof height pretty short. (one of the things I like about my truck)
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by Fastonthetrack » Wed Mar 25, 2015 4:12 pm

Nice build man. You have a ton of patience it appears. Did you have any caster problems when you installed the d60? I have neg caster on mine now and to address that and perch angle I plan on rotating the axle tubes.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:40 am

Fastonthetrack wrote:Nice build man. You have a ton of patience it appears. Did you have any caster problems when you installed the d60? I have neg caster on mine now and to address that and perch angle I plan on rotating the axle tubes.


Does your pinion angle prevent you from just shimming it?
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by Fastonthetrack » Mon Apr 06, 2015 10:49 pm

What exactly did you do with your VSS sensor and getting your truck to shift in 4lo?
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by Anthony Hernandez » Sun May 17, 2015 7:54 pm

That's one hell of a load out plan brother
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by DirtyBacon04 » Sun May 17, 2015 8:10 pm

Thanks man. It's taken up a lot of my time.
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by Docsmudpig » Tue Jun 09, 2015 5:27 pm

Are those pics of it with the suspension lift and body lift on 35's?
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by WagDatto » Mon Jun 22, 2015 1:33 pm

Looks great! Substantial lift compared to the Envoy next to you in that last picture. For clarification, your truck is using the 3" Mark's kit, spacers and bigger tires? How much taller would you say it is total?
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by Jrgunn5150 » Mon Jun 22, 2015 1:38 pm

Correct, Mark Mc 3", front spacers only, 255/75r17 Goodyear Duratracs.

I didn't get any before and after measurements unfortunately, but it's at least the 3" advertised, it doesn't seem that high to look at alone, but by another one it is dramatic.
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by navigator » Thu Oct 01, 2015 10:35 am

Can you rotate your pics before posting? They are kind of hard to view sideways.

Rickalicka18 wrote:More pics of the wheel spacers on :D and my dads beautiful powerstroke in the background :drool3:
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