Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Installation tricks and stuff

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by aaronrules » Sun Apr 25, 2010 3:09 am

Okay, like I have said a million times before, I am in Afganistan right now. I will be home (thankfully) in a couple weeks or so :woot: . I have ordered the MarkMC lift kit, BDS 5500's for the rear and Bilstein HD's up front. I got a set of Hummer H3 wheels and stock tires also, and a set of 1.5" spacers. OH and the Z71 springs. I have all that ordered/at the house now. What I am wondering...before I get a chance to really read directions or study anything...are there any tricks, or anything else I will need to install all this stuff? I am well aware that to 33's under this dude I will probably be doing some bumper trimming...no biggie there, I have a Dremel if needed for that.
As far as the MarkMC lift, or the springs, and spacers and suspension parts, is there anything that I will need to know going into it to make it easier? I figure this could be a good place for everyone to dump all thier good experience and busted knuckle wisdom for those of us who haven't had the opportunity to install stuf yet.

Any extra hardware I need? Any special tools, other than spring compressor and impact and torque wrenches?

Thanks in advance guys!
Lift, shocks, wheels and tires installed...need some armor now.
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by fishsticks » Sun Apr 25, 2010 4:01 am

Personal experience:

In front: I tried a pickle fork to remove my lower strut mount from the control arm. What a waste of time. Get a 3-4lb sledge and have them off in 5 whacks.
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by The Roadie » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:28 am

And mine was the opposite experience. First time in 2005 when the Roadiemobile was new, an hour of sledging failed to budge those strut mounts. I got a Pittman arm puller and that's worked for removing mine about six times now and five other vehicles so far. YMMV.

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by MrSmithsTB » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:33 am

Sometimes you need both, so make sure they are handy. Pitman arm puller is a must, and make sure you have a nice short handled sledge on hand in case the lower mount won't move. You also want to make sure to spray the lower strut mount and the upper strut mount/top strut nut with a penetrating oil(PB Blaster, not KY Jelly) for 5-7 days everyday until you do the work. This will make the removal of everything much easier.
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by irishboy02 » Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:25 am

Also, your going to need a 24mm socket for the bolt for the panhard bar in the rear(which needs to be removed to install rear lift)
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by Zero » Sun Apr 25, 2010 3:17 pm

irishboy02 wrote:Also, your going to need a 24mm socket for the bolt for the panhard bar in the rear(which needs to be removed to install rear lift)



I never had to remover my panhard bar to install my lift.
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by fishsticks » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:20 pm

Zero wrote:
irishboy02 wrote:Also, your going to need a 24mm socket for the bolt for the panhard bar in the rear(which needs to be removed to install rear lift)



I never had to remover my panhard bar to install my lift.

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by aaronrules » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:22 am

short handled sledge..check..pittman puller, I will get. Any other hardware? I thought I read about needing washers or something for the Z71 springs?
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by The Roadie » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:27 am

Not for the springs. If you're installing OEM Z71 shocks, you'll have to shim them with some washers. Better to choose BDS shocks and they come with all the right hardware and they're sized for the vehicle.
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by aaronrules » Mon Apr 26, 2010 12:31 am

The Roadie wrote:Not for the springs. If you're installing OEM Z71 shocks, you'll have to shim them with some washers. Better to choose BDS shocks and they come with all the right hardware and they're sized for the vehicle.


WERD UP! That's what I got for the rears! Wish I could this thing up on a lift to make it easier!
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by aaronrules » Thu May 20, 2010 9:40 pm

This is a dumb question, but I gotta ask...will I need a spring compressor to install the Tahoe springs with Marks spacer? Trying to get the back half done before heading down to the father-in-laws house to do the rest.
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by Zero » Thu May 20, 2010 9:45 pm

No, for the rear springs you just need some elbow grease.
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by aaronrules » Thu May 20, 2010 9:58 pm

Well then...I might get that done tomorrow! Gonna look kinda weird for one night! Going to be all raked out! But it will save us time on Saturday! If i didn't have to drive into town tomorrow, I would try to get started on the whole thing...might get up early and see what I can, but I bet the back end is the only thing I get done...to be clear, I won't need the compressor to get Tahoe springs WITH the spacer in?

I'm so impatient that I just wanna get it all done!!! There are a million TB's around here, but NONE of them are lifted or even more than a cheapo grill guard on the front! I want to be different!!! :viking:
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by Zero » Thu May 20, 2010 10:57 pm

If anything you may need a pry bar, but no compressor. Its not that bad. Dont syke yourself out. I think Roadie has a write up on the OS with pics and stuff, or check JD's original website.

Check my build thread on this site for pics too.
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by KE7WOX » Thu May 20, 2010 11:03 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:Sometimes you need both, so make sure they are handy. Pitman arm puller is a must, and make sure you have a nice short handled sledge on hand in case the lower mount won't move. You also want to make sure to spray the lower strut mount and the upper strut mount/top strut nut with a penetrating oil(PB Blaster, not KY Jelly) for 5-7 days everyday until you do the work. This will make the removal of everything much easier.



Will any kind of penetrating oil do?
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by The Roadie » Thu May 20, 2010 11:04 pm

You jack up and support the frame. Then get a floor jack under the diff. Remove one end of the shocks, which is the down-limiting element of the rear suspension, then slowly lower the floor jack to lower the pumpkin. The next item to limit the articulation will be the emergency brake cables. You can use a bottle jack very carefully to get a bit more opening to slide in the spring. Often a buddy, crowbar or better yet a flat "wonder bar", boot, or 2X4 will persuade it to go in. But be careful of those brake cables.

Penetrating oil is penetrating oil. Just don't believe the marketing hype and believe that WD40 is a penetrating oil. It isn't.
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by Zero » Thu May 20, 2010 11:30 pm

I like "jig-a-loo" because it sounds funny, and the look on the face of the guy at the counter is priceless. hahahaha
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by aaronrules » Fri May 21, 2010 10:21 am

HMMMM....thinking real hard about trying to get this done toady...don't have to be anywhere until 4:30...but whenever I get something going...that jerk ass murphy always shows up...
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by MrSmithsTB » Fri May 21, 2010 11:07 am

If you are going to try it today, get started right now. You are going to need the time. My advice is to start with the front first. That way, if it gives you any trouble you can put it back together and not have to worry about the rear being lifted already.
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by aaronrules » Fri May 21, 2010 3:22 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:If you are going to try it today, get started right now. You are going to need the time. My advice is to start with the front first. That way, if it gives you any trouble you can put it back together and not have to worry about the rear being lifted already.


The task has been postponed...I played around my new Echo weed eater/ edger today instead. Gotta be at my father-in-laws house at 7AM to get started! I'm gonna try to take alot of pics definitely before and after! Wish me luck guys!
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