SS brakes

[Zero]

Does anyone know if the SS brakes will fit on our trucks? I know I have around a 1/2" of extra space for the larger caliper, and still clear my wheel safely.

From my understanding.....our trucks have a 2 piston sliding caliper system. The SS trucks have a 4 piston solid mounted caliper.

I am interested in this swap for a few reasons.

1. The increased # of pistons will decrease the pedal effort for the same amount of braking force (This is also affected by the master cylinder type).

2. Having a caliper that doesn't slide, means we don't have to grease the pins when we do our brakes, or worry about water, and dirt damage.

3. It will improve stopping distances.


If the SS will not be made to fit, then my boss is interested in seeing what he can come up with putting stuff together from Tilton. We use the Tilton product line almost exclusively when building customs cars, and cars for film. Its good stuff!

So please post your input if you know about the SS system, and also speak up if you would like to see a moderately priced brake system upgrade for our trucks. This system would be especially helpful to those who carry a lot of extra weight, frequently trailer, and live in areas with abundant large hills.



Z

[Philberto]

I thought I'd want extra braking, but have yet to hit the limits of my braking. And I'm only on factory pads. Aftermarket pads open up a whole other element. Personally, I'd rather see slotted rotors and more aftermarket pad selection before a big-brake upgrade, but that's just me.

[Gordinho80]

I don't know if anyone has done SS brakes, but I do know that Dizzle has done slotted/drilled rotors all around. I think he was happy with them, I'll let him chime in though.

[Zero]

Wouldnt slotted, or drilled rotors be bad for an off road vehicle due to the likely hood of something getting stuck up in there?

Also keep in mind I have an EXT so I have quite a bit more curb weight then you guys do (both vehicles being bone stock).

[Philberto]

Likelihood of getting things stuck in slotted rotors = very very small... the slots are tiny, and there isn't much of a gap between pad and rotor... That said, I did manage to get a rock stuck in the brakes for a while... made an increasingly painful noise until the rock finally popped out... 50 miles later. No chewing on the rotor though. I can only assume that the rock was ground down to the point that it got flung out. Worst-case scenario I see with slotted rotors is some mud gets in there and dries, which would only last until you heat up the rotors again, and it burns/contracts.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Lowered buddy off the OS has and loves the drilled and slotted rotors with Advance Auto Gold pads. Said the difference was extremely noticeable and the pads have lifetime warranty.

I have the drilled and slotted front rotors sitting in the garage, have been for 3 months. But I figure until mine wear out, why put them on?

[Zero]

I have stock pads and new rotors up front. The pads are gona be changed soon. The rear has new Raybesto Professional series ceramic pads, and new rotors. I hope when I change the front pads to something more aggressive it will help.

I also bleed my brake lines dry, and put in some Amsoil DOT3 racing fluid for the increase temp, and the added water absorbing properties. Changing the fluid totally helped a lot with pedal feel.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I have no issues with the stock replacements that i bought mine with. The brakes work great, but the abs doesnt work for shit with the bigger tires. It will lock the brakes, but I perfer that, since I grew up with it that way. ABS has no light, but I have only noticed it a handfull of times in the year I have owned it. It has locked the tires more times than I have felt abs.

[janesy86]

I also have a set of the drilled/slotted rotors sitting in my apt since Nov. I'll get around to putting those in as soon as its a bit nicer out. But I do also remeber Dizzle being happy with them as well.

[bartonmd]

1. The increased # of pistons will decrease the pedal effort for the same amount of braking force (This is also affected by the master cylinder type).

Fluid power 101... It's not the number of pistons, but the total piston surface area... If they've got the same master cylinder we've got, odds on, they've got about the same surface area in the 4 pistons that we've got in our (2) pistons... The thing you've got to watch about mis-matching hydraulic components is; if they've got a larger surface area in the calipers, and you put larger calipers on a smaller master cylinder, yes, you're going to get an increased force at the rotors per how much pressure you put on the brake pedal; BUT, you're also going to run out of pedal quicker, and always have a spongy pedal feel... Remember, in sizing calipers to master cylinders, you're always playing a game of balancing pressure with pedal travel and feel...

3. It will improve stopping distances.

Not nessicarily... They've got a lot of extra traction than we do... If you can lock up your tires with the brakes right now, and your current brakes don't fade before you've stopped, you won't stop any faster with bigger brakes...

Mike

ETA: BTW, slotted brakes and generally considered better off road and in the mud, because the slots offer a place for the mud that's gotten between the pads and rotors to go... Otherwise, on a flat rotor, you've basically got to wear the mud away...

[Dizzlenator]

I have drilled slotted on mine. They were actually cheaper than the stockers that I could find online when the time came to replace the rotors on mine. I also drained the brake system and refilled it with new fluid when I changed them out. I have not had anything get caught up in the holes, I believe because they are chamfered (think funnel, big at top, smaller as you go). I have had no issues with them actually and did notice that my brakes seem to bite a little more than before. I have had to floor the pedal once when a cop pulled out in front of me from a hiding spot in the trees of the median with no lights on. I saw him because I had my roof lights, grille lights, and quad headlights burning to watch for deer. After I was able to stop and experienced no brake fade, I was sold. I had to change lanes with the back end of my truck almost off the ground, but I missed him. I stopped and got out because I suddenly had the urge to go potty. The cop stopped too and said "sorry about that, I didn't see you coming"...then said he should give me a ticket because it's illegal to run high beams and fog lights, and that my roof/grille lights are for offroad use only. I laughed, but he was serious.

Anyways, I gained a bit over the stock set up. I think I could probably stop faster than a stock TB, even with my larger rolling mass. Keyword is think though...not really something I want to test....

[bartonmd]

Not trying to play down your experience, Dizz, but I had to pannic stop the TB with 3 guys, a fair amount of gear, and a 6200# car trailer behind us... From 65mph to stopped, and the trailer brakes (front axle only) were recently adjusted, so weren't as strong as they normally were (not worn into the adjustment yet, if you know much about how drums work)...

Did the whole thing threshold braking with little bits of ABS here and there, with no fade, and without excessive pedal force... Actually had to have the tires re-balanced because they had rotated on the rims. Brakes didn't warp or glaze, either... Windows were down, and you could smell the burning dust and stuff from inside the cooling fins, but didn't smell like burnt brakes...

ETA: I have the slightly larger V8 SWB and EXT brakes, though...

Mike

[Dizzlenator]

Damn Mike. That's nuts! Never heard of tires actually rotating on the rim. Glad you were able to whoa her up, as they say in NASCAR...

[Zero]

Happens all the time to track and drag cars, especially high torque muscle cars.