Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Suspension question??

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by ValleySt_05 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:07 pm

I've been reading up on builds on here and pirate 4x4 for almost two days now and I can't come up with a good set up, I'm looking at 89 front springs and Z71 rear springs with a 2.5-3" lift... My goal is to lift my daily driver and get a little more clearence to run some 33s but I also want it to perform the way it should, I do alot of snow wheeling and fishing and some of the farm ponds I go to are kinda hard to get to depending on what you have, right now I have a 85 K10 with a little lift and 35s but that will soon be going to the back of the barn... Any help would be great
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by tsmith1156 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:10 pm

I am not as knowledgeable as most of the members on here but I am currently running moog 81114s which I believe is like the 88 springs and 3” block in the front and z71s in the rear, I like it but the rear is a little lower so I am looking to get a pair of .5” blocks to go with the z71s to kinda level it out. Also what gears do you have right now? If you’re like me and have the 3:42s you’ll want to regear to run 33s. Just trying to give some advice that I’ve learned over the years of trying to build mine!
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by Trail X » Tue Jan 02, 2018 2:13 pm

89s and a 2.5-3 in lift will probably top out all the time and ride really rough. You can however cut down a 89 a bit to get a stiff but shorter spring, which is what I'd do if I didn't do coilovers.

Tsmith is right about 3.42s. They don't mix with 33s. They would be fine in most offroad situations, but you'd overheat your trans on the highway.
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by tsmith1156 » Tue Jan 02, 2018 9:17 pm

I second what James is saying, my front end is STIFF! To the point where I have considered saving for radflos and I’ve only had the lift for just under a year
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by cpyonker » Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:00 am

Why is it going to the back of the barn?

But really you need to regear

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by Anthony Hernandez » Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:39 pm

Yes I second James's opinion also, considering that's what he helped me do. I still have them, honestly wish I hadn't cut them and just used the 2" bds lift. I think that would've been the best suited lift option for me personally. I have been riding on those shit MOOG 114's as of late, they can //// off.. horrible.. I am going to try to find 88's, it always seems impossible though. when I had the 3" pucks and cut 89's it worked well, but I advise against any heavy spring without front bumper and skids minimum. I have had to change my cv's 3x now in just a year.
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by tsmith1156 » Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:32 pm

Anthony Hernandez wrote:Yes I second James's opinion also, considering that's what he helped me do. I still have them, honestly wish I hadn't cut them and just used the 2" bds lift. I think that would've been the best suited lift option for me personally. I have been riding on those shit MOOG 114's as of late, they can //// off.. horrible.. I am going to try to find 88's, it always seems impossible though. when I had the 3" pucks and cut 89's it worked well, but I advise against any heavy spring without front bumper and skids minimum. I have had to change my cv's 3x now in just a year.


Agreed! I have the 114s and bilstein HD’s without a front bumper and it is STIFF!
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by v7guy » Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:18 pm

89s and 2.5" lift with no bumper still results in broken front shocks unfortunately. I don't advise it.
3" lift with 89s and even a winch bumper resulted in regularly broken shocks.

Fishstiks had success with 89s, half inch spacer I think, and cut fenders with 33s. It's probably the route I would go at this point... assuming you've got the gearing for it.
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by ValleySt_05 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:27 am

Sorry it took so long to get back, thank you for your replys, I may just get the 3" lift with the springs that I have and run with it, I am planning on putting a trans cooler in and a gear swap, as I do have 3:42s, what would be the right gear to run? And the older truck is getting pushed off to the side is because it belonged to my grandfather and one time and I'd like to restore it..
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by ValleySt_05 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 11:52 am

Also would like to add, it's a open diff so I'd probably look for a locker while I'm looking at gear sets
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by TBYODA » Sat Jan 06, 2018 3:26 pm

ValleySt_05 wrote:Also would like to add, it's a open diff so I'd probably look for a locker while I'm looking at gear sets

I am gonna assume you have a sbw with a 8.0” rear, that being said there are only two options stock G80 and true track LSD. Well you could always weld the spider gears. :mrgreen:
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by ValleySt_05 » Sat Jan 06, 2018 5:17 pm

TBYODA wrote:
ValleySt_05 wrote:Also would like to add, it's a open diff so I'd probably look for a locker while I'm looking at gear sets

I am gonna assume you have a sbw with a 8.0” rear, that being said there are only two options stock G80 and true track LSD. Well you could always weld the spider gears. :mrgreen:


Yep, that's what I have, i acquired a 94 Ranger 2wd SCSB and ive always wanted to do a Solid axle swap and I'm doing research on that also, I want a truck that is fun to drive and will get me places I need to go, the TB is my daily so that's why I'm reading up on both trucks, if I swapped the Ranger I'd go with a D44/8.8 set up.. (Truck is already 8.8 swapped) was going to drop a SBC/Th400 into it
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by Trail X » Sun Jan 07, 2018 1:32 am

ValleySt_05 wrote:I am planning on putting a trans cooler in and a gear swap, as I do have 3:42s, what would be the right gear to run?


As low as possible. 4.10s or better yet 4.56 if you're going to 33s or 34s.
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