I HAVE ISSUES

[larryk]

OK....so I swapped out my rear axle for a 4.10-posi from an SS..and so started the problem. Since I have a 4x4, it means I need to swap the front diff too. You think that would be a simple project....nope. Without having removed a part yet...here is where my apparent issues start....

As long as I'm changing a diff, needed to rebuild it, so all new thrust washers, bearings and seals are in it, so I don't have leaks or other problems and have to do it again. Can I buy standard parts ..nope, had to get Timken. Took the diff apart, and do you think I can just rebuild it and put it back together...haha...nope again. Had to beadblast it and clearcoat it for protection. The diff being done, of course I have to replace the disconnect. Same deal as the diff...but scored new gears too from American Powertrain.... Beadblasted and cleared as well...and of course added a zerk. Afraid I'll break something taking the old parts out...picked up a new oil pan. It's getting the clearcoat treatment as well. New front driveshaft...new universals painted and cleared? You bet. Soooo....As long as I'm digging all that apart, might as well change the wheel bearings. Timken...clearcoated...check. New axles from Detroit axles? You bet. Well....all that work and I don't touch ball joints? You jest. New Mevotech TTX all around. Do I want to screw around with taking the parts off, rebuilding them, and reintstall? No. Picked up used a-arms and knuckles from a yard in California so they were rust free. Stll...can't just install them as-is, so they were beadblasted and painted. What do you think happened next? You bet....those bushings maybe are bad???...of course...gotta change them. Stock replacement? No. Prothane? Yes. For the final touch...Since I'm going to drop the pan to change the diff (I know...but it's not that tough), that means I need to drop the steering rack. You know where this story ends right...? Upgrading to a cleaned/painted rack from an SS to get the quicker steering.

So I just can't NOT put new, upgraded, cleaned and painted parts on anything I touch. It's a sickness, obviously. Where does this ever end???

Pics of the diseases symptoms attached. Enjoy

[Anthony Hernandez]

Great job man, I really like the color.

[larryk]

Great job man, I really like the color.

Thanks. I'm trying to stick to a theme...suspension arms/springs that blue color, axle and knuckles black, and driveshafts (front rear and cv's) silver

[ErikSS]

Holy Over Kill! It sure looks good, but "have too" is a pretty interesting concept in this write up. lol

[Aries]

OK....so I swapped out my rear axle for a 4.10-posi from an SS..

Good Job
I have also been looking for a SS rear differential

[Trail X]

I thought your truck had issues. Turns out its you?

Why would you bead blast the diff? Are you sure you didnt accidently blast any of the machined surfaces? That could give you some bad results.

They do look nice and new, but aren't you just going to get it dirty at some point?

[larryk]

I thought your truck had issues. Turns out its you?

Why would you bead blast the diff? Are you sure you didnt accidently blast any of the machined surfaces? That could give you some bad results.

They do look nice and new, but aren't you just going to get it dirty at some point?

Yup....I cant just bolt parts on without upgrading them/making them pretty

And yes, Im sure I didnt blast any critical machined parts on the diff. I did lightly dust up the mating surface for the RTV, so it will bond better....but all good otherwise.

Yeah, they are going to get butt azz dirty not long after I install them. But they will a)clean up better at the pressure washer, and b)in the Chicago area, with salty winter roads, I cannot STAND rusty parts. Also, as we all know, once lifted (as mine is) its only a matter of time until you have to replace broken parts. Nice clean, rust free, anti-seize coated parts are a lot easier to remove next time you have to go in

[Nexus1155]

How did the SS steering rack work out? I have an XUV that I trail sometime, and go hard in the paint around rotaries. The quicker turn steering rack on a heavier longer machine does not seem like a good idea? Especially when the power steering pumps are beefier to support it, might make matters worse. I do think I need a new rack though, it is popping and whining after pump and cooler retrofit.

Also, I was thinking about the prothanes too. The stock ones get DESTROYED and make the truck shit...

[larryk]

How did the SS steering rack work out? I have an XUV that I trail sometime, and go hard in the paint around rotaries. The quicker turn steering rack on a heavier longer machine does not seem like a good idea? Especially when the power steering pumps are beefier to support it, might make matters worse. I do think I need a new rack though, it is popping and whining after pump and cooler retrofit.

Also, I was thinking about the prothanes too. The stock ones get DESTROYED and make the truck shit...

Well, the longer wheelbase versions have a quicker ratio than the SWB version of the truck, and the SS is faster still. Here are the ratios I was able to dig up:

SWB: 20.3:1
LWB: 18.5:1
SS: 16.0:1

Defintiely noticably quicker steering....but I havent been able to really test it yet as I need to get it in for an alignment before I really drive it. The around the block/go to store test felt great thogh.

Turns lock to lock:

SWB: 3.82
LWB: 3.48
SS: 3.00

The way I justified this, was that GM decided to put a quicker box in to the LWB version for a reason. If the SS box was quicker, it would probably be better for the LWB as well. So far, it is.

The old bushings in the truck were def worn.....just normal deterioration of rubber bushings. The Prothane were easy enough to install, and make the front end tight as a drum. Again, on the test drive....no squeaks, no binding, and no harshness. Good upgrade