Lift "Refresh" Best Options?

[zerovandez]

Hi,

Here are specs of my TB

2002 TB 4x4 LTZ
Rear Z71 Tahoe Springs
MarkMC Lift - I'm not sure what version this is. The front are single huge blocks versus the 2 piece that is available. Rear is 3 inch block.
Front Bilstein HD shocks
Rear BDS Shocks
Current wheel/tire size - 265/75/16 (steelie wheels), Tires are Hankook DynaPro ATM
Wheel spacers - 1.5inch 6x5 to 6x5.5 (or vice versa, can't remember)

Here's my problem. I've always had front end problems after the above mods. The TB looks really good and drives really good. But after a month or 2 of driving, I'm always having to replace the front hub, and CV boots. My TB is parked and not driven most of the year. So far, I've gotten the tires/wheels rebalanced, lower suspension arms w/new bushings and front knuckle w/new ball joint replaced. Also got an alignment done. I think the angle that the CV axle sits at is too aggressive - I wouldn't be surprised if the inner joints popped out.

So onto my next move. I want to "level" out the TB but unsure of what lift(s) to purchase. I'm going to get rid of the steelies and install Silverado wheels instead using 265/70/17 tires and they're going to be All Season tires. I don't want a lift that is too aggressive, just something that gets the job done and can fit the said tire/wheel size without much mods. So, with rear z71 springs, which lift would you think better suites my new goal?

Thanks

[navigator]

The front hubs should last longer than a month or two and the lift wouldn't really have an influence on them wearing out, that would have more to do with the spacers and tire size. You are running a really common combo of the 1.5" spacer and the ~32" tire. If you are wearing hubs out that quickly with no more than you are driving, you might try a different brand. I've run the cheap ebay versions and usually get 2yrs or so out of them though I only put about 5k per year on my TB.

You do a little search on CV boots, there are a few threads about the ones that hold up best.
I ran the rough country lift with Z71 springs for awhile (no extra rear lift) and it was almost level. I think the front was a tad bit higher but hardly noticeable. I've since added the 3/4" rough country spacer to the rear and one of MarkMc's 1/2" front spacer and that sits pretty level to the eye test. I've run that for some time and never had an issue with the factory boot. I did finally tear it, removing it, when I did my front differential swap last summer. I dropped one in from Oreilly's with no issues yet.

I think keeping the milder lift in the front has helped me not have CV boot issues, I also don't wheel mine like some of the guys on here do. I'm just trying to get to those hunting/fishing/camping spots that few other people take the effort to get to.

[zerovandez]

Yeah it doesn't make any sense that the hubs were wearing out that quick. I don't do any kind of wheeling either, just mostly highway and on loose dirt maybe once (if that) out of the year. The spacers are from MarkMC as well. I thought that my combination of parts were also pretty "normal" but searching the boards, I didn't find any issues such as mine occurring that quickly. Maybe I'll have MarkMC inspect the current spacers. But if you're stating that the lift has nothing to do with my issues, then, I suppose I can save a few hundred and keep the current and look at other areas which may be the problem.

Also, would having a top mounted spacer be more beneficial than having the bottom mounted blocks for the rear?

[v7guy]

The original hubs dying after the lift isn't surprising, New hubs dying in months is shocking, it really just doesn't happen unless they were garbage to begin with.

The shock bushings in the lift spacer do wear out rather quickly, I found I was replacing mine every year or two.

CV boots will slip off at the inner joint unless they are clamped on. Any of the neoprene boot CV axles seem to hold up pretty well, Detroit axle has been the go to for a few years now, unless something has changed I would grab them, you shouldn't have to worry about it after using a worm gear clamp on the inner joint.

Your experience is def an anomaly and your setup is generally considered to be pretty mild.

[Jrgunn5150]

Replace your shock bushing's with poly versions for a Acura Integra or Honda Civic, that will firm that up.

As for the hub's, i have to agree with everyone else, you just got crappy ones. My Detroit Axles ones worked fine for close to 20,000 miles.

[zerovandez]

All of the hubs were replaced with ACDelco replacements. I was driving to Las Vegas Nevada from Los Angeles California a year ago and hand to pull over to do a hub job...that wasnt fun. I have done it so many times that I've streamlined the process to just under 25 minutes. Also, each time that its replaced, i use a new axle nut and torque it to specs. Going to cross my fingers now, issues havent happened this past month I was driving it.

Funny honda/acura mentioned here...im in the middle of building a honda for track lol.

[Jrgunn5150]

For whatever reason, those are the ones that fit Mark's 3" lift lol.

[bartonmd]

Shit, I'm still on my stock hubs, which seem to still be tight, at 133k miles, having been lifted with a bumper/winch for the last 70k miles, and having had the same combo you've had (1.5" spacers, 32" 10-ply tires, although stock wheels. What's your wheel offset? Pics of how they look on it?) for the last 20k miles, and still going strong. I check them every time I rotate tires just to make sure, but yeah...

Also, which AC Delco replacements? Just because they say AC Delco on them doesn't mean they're OEM. There's like 3 quality levels of AC Delco hubs. The "real" ones are the "GM Original equipment" ones, which should be ~$140+ each.

Mike

[bartonmd]

Shit, I'm still on my stock hubs, which seem to still be tight, at 133k miles, having been lifted with a bumper/winch for the last 70k miles, and having had the same combo you've had (1.5" spacers, 32" 10-ply tires, although stock wheels. What's your wheel offset? Pics of how they look on it?) for the last 20k miles, and still going strong. I check them every time I rotate tires just to make sure, but yeah...

Also, which AC Delco replacements? Just because they say AC Delco on them doesn't mean they're OEM. There's like 3 quality levels of AC Delco hubs. The "real" ones are the "GM Original equipment" ones, which should be ~$140+ each. (though if I was going high end, I'd be getting the Timken ones for $130)

Mike

[zerovandez]

Alright. I decided to stick with what I have. I only decided to install Silverado wheels instead. New size is 265/70/17 which should be about the same size as my 16's. everything went well. Tq'd the spacers to 90lbs to hub, tq'd the wheels nuts to 85lbs. Even the test drive was good! Smooth as butter. I can feel the car responds quicker than it did with steelies. Feels "lighter" too! BUT...here's the catch....

The passenger rear wheel looks to be sticking out much more compared to the rest of the other 3 wheels/tires! Almost seems like the entire rear axle somehow shifted right (if looking from rear of car). I don't notice anything looking bent, the springs looks well seated and not at an angle. What would cause this?

I don't have pics of my car right now because the pics are on a host that I forgot my credentials to lol. Here's a TV thread with info and a few pictures.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.p ... 456&page=3

[moose1]

You are dog tracking! To rectify that situation you need to address the panhard bar. Either get a drop bracket that will help align the rear or you can get an adjustable bar. Massive makes an adjustable bar that is pretty slick and there are drop brackets available from one of the members here. That is one of my pet peeves when guys lift their trucks and don't address the tracking, most of the lifted vehicles you see will have the issue.

[mason10198]

Your wheel is stuck out because your rear axle is out of alignment from your suspension lift. The stock pan hard bar is a certain length for stock suspension and when you lift the truck it gets pulled to the side of you don't replace the stock pan hard bar wth a longer/adjustable one. My truck looks the same way.

Edit: for some reason I didn't see mooses reply on my screen lol. What he said^^

[zerovandez]

Okay, so I'll I've elected to purchase adjustable panhard bar. Any tips on installation? Does the TB need to be on the ground or on jacks?

[v7guy]

you can adj the panhard rod to stock length, hook it up, then lengthen it or shorten it as needed with it installed.

I usually use that route.

Measure how far out the tire sticks out, then adj the phr half that measurement.

[Jrgunn5150]

Okay, so I'll I've elected to purchase adjustable panhard bar. Any tips on installation? Does the TB need to be on the ground or on jacks?

You could just buy the bracket from Erik to correct it.

[zerovandez]

So fill me in. What are pros and cons of adjustable panhard bar vs the drop bracket?

Any install write ups for either or both?

[Jrgunn5150]

Well the drop bracket is cheaper is the pro. The con is it moves your bar a fixed distance, so if you're doing something outside the norm for these trucks, it won't be perfect.

A adjustable bar is three times as much, but beefier, and adjustable lol.

IMO, the bracket is the way to go for 99% of the people, 99% of the time. Here's a link to the thread with info, pics, and Erik's ordering info.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6384&hilit=bracket

[zerovandez]

I probably fall into that 99%. Not looking to hit hardcore trails, just some dirt roading here and there. I will contact him. Thanks!

[zerovandez]

So shortly after this thread started, i had a failing driver hub. I replaced both for the heck of it. Im getting really good at it lol. This time, i opted for SKF hubs with xtracker technology. Also replaced pads with akebono - the hawk pads created tons of dust!

Im not sure where to go with these bearing issues. My next move will be to lower the rear lift. Currently, there is a total of 4.5 inches of suspension lift in the rear (z71 springs, 3 inch block). Front is only 2.5 inch of lift. Anyone else thinks that the 2 inches of rear rake is causing excessive weight to the front hubs?