Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Confusion

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by Fisker » Wed Jun 29, 2016 12:51 pm

If I get longer suspension for the front and back of the TB, is there a limit to how high I can go before I run into problems? It seems like everyone here is running a longer than stock suspension, but if we lift our vehicles suspension or body more than three inches we have problems from what I understand. So if we can have longer suspension and 3" lift why is it that we cannot do for example 6 inch body or suspension lifts without running into problems?

Also, I was looking at Hardtrailz build and noticed he at one point had a two inch body lift, are these still manufactured? Finally, Hartrailz how much would you sell your TB for cash in hand?
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by TBYODA » Wed Jun 29, 2016 1:24 pm

The limiting factor on the suspension lift is CV binding on stock CV unless your willing spend $2k+ on a one off CV's. Most haven't felt the custom CV are justifiable. Beside most would also say it not worth it with our crappy IFS.
Money is better spent towards SAS build if your looking at 37"+ tires.
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Jun 29, 2016 2:41 pm

I believe you can still get the lift meister 3" body lift. That plus the 3" lift kit and stiffer springs should put you over 6" in the front atleast. If thats what you're looking for
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by Fisker » Wed Jun 29, 2016 3:40 pm

I think in the future when it isn't my DD I will consider doing the body lift on top of my two inch suspension lift. I was more curious as to why we had to combine two lifts to get to 6" instead of doing a 6" suspension lift. and to see if they do the 2" suspension lift still. if that is the case I might could do that and get an overall lift of four inches.
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by Rickalicka18 » Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:17 pm

The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212
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by larryk » Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:04 pm

Rickalicka18 wrote:The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212


Other than personal preference.....is there any good reason to put on a 2" instead of a 3"?
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by KingBird » Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:38 pm

larryk wrote:
Rickalicka18 wrote:The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212


Other than personal preference.....is there any good reason to put on a 2" instead of a 3"?


13537631_612035095491_7325353928188303819_n.jpg
13537631_612035095491_7325353928188303819_n.jpg (14.49 KiB) Viewed 28453 times


I dunno.
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by SnowBlazer » Thu Jun 30, 2016 3:05 am

Fisker wrote:Finally, Hartrailz how much would you sell your TB for cash in hand?


He won't sell it. I've joked with him about winning the lottery and acquiring it and even then he shot me down. :D
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by TBYODA » Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:56 am

larryk wrote:
Rickalicka18 wrote:The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212


Other than personal preference.....is there any good reason to put on a 2" instead of a 3"?

One reason is MDB Fabrication doesn't make a bumper kit for the 2" BL, only non and 3" BL.
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by bartonmd » Thu Jun 30, 2016 11:05 am

TBYODA wrote:
larryk wrote:
Rickalicka18 wrote:The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212


Other than personal preference.....is there any good reason to put on a 2" instead of a 3"?

One reason is MDB Fabrication doesn't make a bumper kit for the 2" BL, only non and 3" BL.


I do now make a winch bumper kit for the 2" body lift, because for a while, Mark wasn't selling the 3" body lift, and a few people had to downgrade to the 2" body lift.

Mike
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Jun 30, 2016 12:55 pm

Fisker wrote:Finally, Hartrailz how much would you sell your TB for cash in hand?


10K
I hate to advocate weird chemicals, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone...but
they've always worked for me.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:04 pm

As stated, the front CVs limit the suspension lift so to get maximum lift we combine the susp and body to get about 6ish inches. Dont want to do more than 3 inch body due to leverage on the mounts.

I did the two inch which is still available before the 3 existed, then worked with Mark to dial in the 3 inch over a few months. I see no reason to do the 2 vs 3 now if you have the option of both. The work is the same for install.

I saw the custom CV mentioned, but I cant recall them actually being purchased by anyone. They seem like the flared fenders and a pipe dream even at the cost named until you have someone step up to buy them. I wanted the fenders, but the real price was triple what had been tossed around here for a good while. I think its possible, but may cost even more than mentioned so bear that in mind.

Never shot anyone down on buying it..Never had someone honestly ask, as you did, for a real price. I have had that in my head for awhile and mentioned it to a few in person.

MDB Fab can do anything if your touch the right spots ;)
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by bartonmd » Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:28 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:MDB Fab can do anything if your touch the right spots ;)


(and if you're local)

BAD TOUCH, bad touch, goohohohohood touch...
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by Fisker » Thu Jun 30, 2016 5:12 pm

larryk wrote:
Rickalicka18 wrote:The 2" body lift is made by zone offroad. Heres a link to it: http://zoneoffroad.com/zone-offroad-pro ... azer/c9212


Other than personal preference.....is there any good reason to put on a 2" instead of a 3"?


Depends on money, and true time wise and application I might as well put the three inch on, but I don't need something that I cannot put gas in either. I don't know that one inch make the world of difference, because I cant really do either with my skill level. I just wondered what the price difference was. I am also trying to be careful because I do not want to replace every part in my vehicle because I lift it right to its limits. Honestly I wish I had fount this website before I bought my rough country lift or I would have bought marks three inch and probably wouldn't want any more. I did however just buy his 2" rear spacer so I will have a total of 2" all around, not the 2 in front, .75 in back bull shit.

HARDTRAILZ wrote:As stated, the front CVs limit the suspension lift so to get maximum lift we combine the susp and body to get about 6ish inches. Dont want to do more than 3 inch body due to leverage on the mounts.

I did the two inch which is still available before the 3 existed, then worked with Mark to dial in the 3 inch over a few months. I see no reason to do the 2 vs 3 now if you have the option of both. The work is the same for install.

I saw the custom CV mentioned, but I cant recall them actually being purchased by anyone. They seem like the flared fenders and a pipe dream even at the cost named until you have someone step up to buy them. I wanted the fenders, but the real price was triple what had been tossed around here for a good while. I think its possible, but may cost even more than mentioned so bear that in mind.

Never shot anyone down on buying it..Never had someone honestly ask, as you did, for a real price. I have had that in my head for awhile and mentioned it to a few in person.

MDB Fab can do anything if your touch the right spots ;)

I was curious because your rig is bad ass and if I had that kind of money I would be on my way to wherever it is you live. As far as the reasons for only doing six inches by both body and suspension it is starting to make sense now.
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by Fisker » Mon Jul 04, 2016 10:46 am

Hey guys,
on the topic of me being confused and inexperienced, I ran into a small issue while trying to install the two inch rear spacers, however I ran into a small problem. I got the tires off, TB put on Jack stands, shocks off, then lowered the rear diff, however I do not have enough space to get the small spacer and springs out, and certainly not enough to put an inch and a half bigger spacer in. So I went back to the instructions and they say to also remove Panhead bar bolts. I do not know what these are, does someone have pictures or a description of what this is so that I can hopefully get these spacers in.
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by larryk » Mon Jul 04, 2016 2:23 pm

It's the big bar that goes from the frame on the drivers side, to the axle on the passenger side, behind the axle

Fwiw....if you have jackstands on the frame, and removed both of the lower shock bolts...you should EASILY have have enough room to put them in.
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by TBYODA » Mon Jul 04, 2016 3:51 pm

and remover the sway bar end links. No need to remove the panhard bar bolts.
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by Fisker » Tue Jul 05, 2016 8:50 am

TBYODA wrote:and remover the sway bar end links. No need to remove the panhard bar bolts.


I think that makes more sense to me than removing the pan head bar, however I am still curious why removing the pan head bar bolts would help lower the differential?
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by Jrgunn5150 » Tue Jul 05, 2016 6:38 pm

Fisker wrote:
TBYODA wrote:and remover the sway bar end links. No need to remove the panhard bar bolts.


I think that makes more sense to me than removing the pan head bar, however I am still curious why removing the pan head bar bolts would help lower the differential?


I always removed mine, it allows the rear end to drop straight down, instead of a sideways arc. It only took me a second to remove that one bolt. I took my rear swaybar out the first time I ever did anything back there, so i forget about the end links.
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by Fisker » Wed Jul 06, 2016 4:24 pm

Jrgunn5150 wrote:
Fisker wrote:
TBYODA wrote:and remover the sway bar end links. No need to remove the panhard bar bolts.


I think that makes more sense to me than removing the pan head bar, however I am still curious why removing the pan head bar bolts would help lower the differential?


I always removed mine, it allows the rear end to drop straight down, instead of a sideways arc. It only took me a second to remove that one bolt. I took my rear swaybar out the first time I ever did anything back there, so i forget about the end links.


with stock springs you think I would be able to lower the rear enough to pull out the springs and put them back in over the 2" spacer? I do not have spring compressors so I was hoping to lower the rear enough to do it by hand
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