Lift recommendation?

[ComputernerdBD]

Hey everyone. I have an 07 Trailblazer LT with 42k that I was looking to do some mods on to make it better in snow/mud and also for long trips. Mainly a suspension lift and also put larger tires on it in the spring when the time comes for new tires. I was looking at the BDS 2"/2" and Supreme Suspensions 3"/3" kits as possibilities but I am open to all suggestions and recommendations. Not looking to do anything crazy as this is my daily driver but was looking for a few recommendations for a setup that fits the following:

-Will not adversely affect handling and stability at high speeds on highways or on windy roads
-Will not cause suspension components to wear out much faster
-Keep stock wheels (I have the LT 18" 5 spoke models)
-Keep most of the suspension stock as possible so spare parts are easier to get as the car ages
-Avoid trimming body components

Also with the lift and tires, what other implications such as speedometer calibration would I also have to take care of?




In the long term I was looking at doing the following as part of this "project", thoughts on this?

-2" Suspension lift
-Oversize tires with wheel spacers
-Front bull bar with LED lights
-Roof rack with LED lights
-Hitch spare tire carrier (Maybe I would just get another 18" wheel and tire as the one under the truck is rusted and put that on there)
-Plastidip paint job
-Undercoating with Rust Encapsulator
-Skid plates




Thanks

[Rickalicka18]

Brendan, your tire size will depend on you gear ratio. If you have 3.42 then your max tire size is a 32". You should also add a transmisson oil cooler to that list if you do put 32" tires. As for lift. You would most likely be happiest with the markmc 2.5" leveling kit. Which you can find with a google search of "liftmeister". To fix your speedometer problem, you can get a pcm tune. Pcm of nc should be able to recalibrate up to a 32" tire. Lastly, I would recommend flipping uca's, changing rear shocks and front struts (which you can find here: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20) Lots of guys also upgrade to tahoe z71 shocks and springs in the rear and get stiffer front springs (I wouldn't go over a 87 spring in the front). You can find the front springs thread here: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=158

Other than that, goodluck and I encourage you to explore the site.

[Cable810]

Personally I'd go with Marks 3"(liftmeister) lift. I got away with no trans cooler with 32s on 3.42 gears. I'd also look at upgrading rear axle and changing the gear ratio. As Ricky said flip your UCA it will help with alignment!

[Rickalicka18]

Personally I'd go with Marks 3"(liftmeister) lift. I got away with no trans cooler with 32s on 3.42 gears. I'd also look at upgrading rear axle and changing the gear ratio. As Ricky said flip your UCA it will help with alignment!

I like my 3" markmc lift too but he did say he wanted to keep mostly stock so the 2.5" lift would be recommended. If he were to change shocks, struts, and springs then the logical choice would be the 3" (which is the better option). A trans cooler is also just another recommendation and a quick fix if he has 3.42 and doesn't want to change the gear ratios. Changing gears and an axle swap is also a good idea, but not cheap.

[djthumper]

He has to take the front struts apart for the lift anyhow so go with the 3" lift.

[Cable810]

I was looking at the BDS 2"/2" and Supreme Suspensions 3"/3" kits as possibilities but I am open to all suggestions and recommendations.

Well He was looking at a 3" lift already...

[ComputernerdBD]

Hey everyone,


Thanks for the tips, I already have a transmission cooler from PCM of NC with stainless lines and it appears I have 3.42 gears based on the glovebox label but I may have an 8.6" ring gear. I don't tow but I want to have that capability if needed. Is the 8.6" ring gear with a 3.42 ratio even possible? When I went to change the rear axle fluid I used the cover the dealer gave me that they looked up for this VIN and it carved a deep groove in the cover and left a ton of metal shavings. Only the deeper cover from an 06 fit which I am running now.

If I go 32" tires how much extra strain is that going to put on everything else? I have P245/60R18 tires on the truck already. What is the max size tire I could safely run if I did not have a trans cooler or taxing the one I have? I looked at a tire size comparison and it appears that 265/65R18 are 31.6", 275 is 32.1". My local shop had a stack of 275s when I was there for a repair. They look huge and I asked them for a price. Another customer laughed when I mentioned I was looking to lift this.

With complexity and wear in mind, I understand 3" may be great but maybe the 2" lift would be better? Would flipping UCAs be needed for that? Also would the axle bearings and CV boots last longer in this case?

Thanks again!

[Trail X]

If I go 32" tires how much extra strain is that going to put on everything else? I have P245/60R18 tires on the truck already. What is the max size tire I could safely run if I did not have a trans cooler or taxing the one I have?

Take a look at the link below, its not an exact science. There's no cliff that you go off of when you hit a certain size. Its just recommendations based on our collective experiences. The closer you get to the red area of the calculator, the more you need a cooler (at a minimum). I'd go so far as to recommend getting a shift kit also that removes the PWM valve from the torque converter clutch circuit.

http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... alculator/

With complexity and wear in mind, I understand 3" may be great but maybe the 2" lift would be better? Would flipping UCAs be needed for that? Also would the axle bearings and CV boots last longer in this case?

"Better" is only defined by your point of view, based on what you hold valuable. If you want the most clearance, then 3" is what to do. If you value component reliability higher, then in theory 2" would be what you should do. Although, the component life between 2" and 3" of lift may be negligible. No one has ever done a study, and I doubt there's enough data available to create any sort of statistical proof.

[ComputernerdBD]

Ok I got to revive this thread because I have a really valuable opportunity here.... Long story short, I have to replace my front differential again (another thread on a sister site) and I was thinking of taking the opportunity to have the shop regear the rear differential at the same time as replacing the whole front.

I am revising my plan. I think I am going to keep it conservative with a 2" lift and eventually put 265/65R18 or slightly larger (no more than 32") tires once the existing ones wear out so it is still viable as a daily driver but more capable in the snow. Now which would be better for a mild tire size increase but better for driveline loads, power, gas mileage and speed - leave it alone at 3.42 or go to 3.73 or 4.10? Would this setup make the truck more unstable at fast highway speeds or would I need to upgrade other parts like springs? New plan:

-2" Suspension lift
-Oversize tires with wheel spacers (when old ones wear out)
-Front bull bar with LED lights (already installed)
-Undercoating with Rust Encapsulator
-Skid plates
-Side step delete

[larryk]

I have a top of strut spacer lift for a total of 3" at the wheel. This is THE limit at full droop, as the CV, and lower control arms bind right about at this point. I also am running 265/65R18 tires, which as you note, are 31.5". I had a "touch" of rubbing while turning (mostly in reverse backing it?) which was easily remedied by adjusting the mounting locations of the inner fender. They fit fine with no rubbing.....and I can see where I could probably mount the 275's (32") without having to cut them up. For me, on my truck without cutting, that's the limit of tire size.

As for gear ratio....I recently (the last few months) went from the 3.42 to the 4.10 ratio. Frankly, with these size tires, in a weiner dog EXT, I wouldnt consider doing ANYTHING BUT 4.10's. Seriously.... When running the 3.42, it was OK, but the difference of going to 4.10 isnt that significant. It accelerates better and doesnt lug the engine at all. While in cruise or torque converter lockup, it doesnt hunt or drop in and out of lockup. If you are going to be changing axle ratios, and running anything larger than stock tire size (duh) go with the 4.10 ratio, you will not be dissapointed.

[ComputernerdBD]

Interesting.... I don't really want to push the limits too far especially with component wear and keep some breathing room so I think I will stay with 2" for now.

Thanks for the tips, I think I am going to go 4.10. The chart on the site indicates for 32" tires that would be standard duty anyway. However how much will that affect gas mileage and would that impact performance at higher speeds on the highway? Thanks

EDIT: Also with the PCM, I understand it will need a tune possibly to correct for that but if I needed to get that corrected locally can the stealership or a shop with the proper scanner do that?

[larryk]

Mileage is better with the 4.10 as you aren't lugging the engine as much. I picked up maybe 2mpg going 4.10 from the 3.42

Also, STRONGLY suggest Lyndon @ Westers for the tune. PCM for less couldn't get it right after three attempts, and never refunded my money, Lyndon didn't get it the first time, but nailed it the second time through. Dealer won't do a flash for a gear change