Removing CV joints for more lift

[captnewt]

I know it sounds stupid but I've been thinking about removing my cv's to get more lift in the front. I have the moog 8114 and 3 inch spacer with no extra weight and the cv angle was pretty bad so my cv just popped right out of the socket. The question I have is could I have a custom front coil spring made to give about 3 inches of lift in addition to the coil spacer? The cv binding won't be a problem but what about front shocks? Is that going to be a problem? Solutions?

[ErikSS]

I believe ball joint bind would be your next issue. There is a reason the MarkMC kits are engineered the way they are. The 3" is about as far as you can go.

Out of curiosity, why would you want to lift that high, and not have 4x4?

[captnewt]

Alright but I'm assuming that isn't as big as an issue as the cv binding. And just for looks, I'm started to slowing get parts for a solid axle swap so I'm just gonna keep it 4x2 for now because I don't do any off-roading anymore

[ErikSS]

Ever see the aftermath of a ball joint bind gone wrong? It's your rig, but I personally wouldn't pull my CVs making it 2 wheel drive and risk breaking a ball joint in the name of a little more lift.

[AA1PR]

Alright but I'm assuming that isn't as big as an issue as the cv binding. And just for looks, I'm started to slowing get parts for a solid axle swap so I'm just gonna keep it 4x2 for now because I don't do any off-roading anymore

just do the SAS & be done with it & you'll be better off in the end

seems like wasted $$$

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm even more curious why if you don't do any offroading anymore, you'd do an SAS?

If you're interested in looks, have you done a body lift? Because there's another easy 3"

[419TrailWisperer]

I like that your thinking outside the box for a solution, but sounds like it would cause more problems. Maybe the best/easiest way to get the look your after, is to remove the spacers from the rear(if you have them). Im assuming your looking to level out the front? Jrgunn5150 has the right idea, 3" body lift, if your looking for more hight. Also as AA1RP stated thats more $$$ wasted that could be used for the SAS. Just throwing some ideas out, hope it helps ya out a bit.

[captnewt]

Yeah I already have 3 inch body on there but I saw on here that some guy had custom springs that gave him a good amount of lift. SAS is gonna take awhile. Would the front shocks be the biggest issue?

[KE7WOX]

I think you're also going to run into alignment problems, at least as far as I understand, maybe others can chime in (I'm not "extremely" lifted, so not 100% sure).

[ErikSS]

Shocks and springs are not the main issue. Ball joint bind and alignment are bigger concerns.
If you try to use stock length struts you will end up driving around with the shocks fully extended and 0 wheel travel. Its not impossible. I dont see a method of making it practicle.
Give it a try and let us know!

[Jrgunn5150]

Yeah I already have 3 inch body on there but I saw on here that some guy had custom springs that gave him a good amount of lift. SAS is gonna take awhile. Would the front shocks be the biggest issue?

ONce you remove the CV's from the equation the stock spindle and moutning points for it are the hold up, your arms will wind up like this /, rather than this - . Side loads the hell out of the ball joints, plus jams the tierods down at a pretty extreme angle. Not to mention, the shocks are a fixed length. You'll wind up riding around with them fully extended, or stretched all the way out. Not to say Donks don't do this all the time, and don't seem to care, but it's more issues than I'd want to deal with in something I actually drove to work.

[captnewt]

Alright yeah sounds like I need to just do a SAS or find someone to fabricate a differential drop kit

[Trail X]

I'd do 89 springs with mark's lift, but the key is that you'd have to get a shock extender (to prevent you from topping out all the time). That's just about the best you can do easily. We can't use a shock extender with 4WD, but with 2WD you can.

You can certainly get custom springs wound, but it isn't cheap, and you'll almost certainly run into UBJ issues if you go much beyond the 89 springs + 3" lift. The only way to solve the UBJ issues is a custom UCA like mine.

Regarding the custom springs, if you pay for the tooling and design, maybe you can come up with a spring length that works for a non-lifted TB, and can substitute for putting a lift block in - then you can sell it to the masses to recoup some of your costs. I'd considered doing that for years, but then Radflow came along and now I have no need.

The shock extenders look like the picture below. You'll just have to find one with the proper length and the proper metric thread for our shocks. I don't recall what it is though, M8-M10 maybe?

[Cable810]

I just have to say this. If you want more lift with the IFS sell your Trailblazer and get a trucks then get a 10" lift kit for it and be done. No reason to beat around the bush if your going to SAS. Leave your truck alone, save for the SAS and be done. Otherwise you'll be pissing money(that you could save for SAS) at replacement parts if you remove the CV Shafts.

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm still lost as to why you'd want a SAS if you don't go offroad?

[Cable810]

MALL CRAWLER!!!

[v7guy]

Unfortunately a lot of these guys are right, the stock stuff has been taken pretty much to the limit without fab work, then that becomes a real slippery slope, really fast. Best bet would just to save up for the sasif that's where you see yourself going anyway.