Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Front Upper Shock Bushing Failures

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by v7guy » Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:07 pm

fixed up James02 a bit ago, took about an hour and a half to get the washers in, Mark helped me source some replacements when we were shooting emails back and forth last night, no biggie.
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by Opeth » Sun Aug 11, 2013 10:52 pm

Jason-

...... while going back and forth with mark, did he by any chance give you the Monroe part # for the bushings in his kit? Someone posted it on here before, i just can find that thread. Or did you find a set of poly bushings that are the same diameter as the rubber ones?

I'll add to this, when I installed the washers with my kit I put the "cup" side of the washers facing away from the bushing. I believe mark has them facing the other way when he ships them. Last time I checked my bushings were all still in great condition.
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by v7guy » Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:36 am

the part number is 901940. right around $10 I believe.

I thought I might have had a poly version picked out but it turned out they wouldn't work. At the moment I have some rubber ones in.
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by TBYODA » Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:11 pm

I just had crazy idea. Could you mill down a hockey puck and place it inside the top spacer or would it be too hard? ;) I have heard of them getting used for body lifts before. Just guessing that they would be more durable then what every one is using.
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by Opeth » Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:40 pm

Thanks Jason!

Bob- as a bushing replacement? I don't think so. If we found someone to to make us some larger bushings with a higher durometer like a hockey puck, it might solve some of the issues. But the bushings would have to mirror the mounts current contours and be fatter on top to absorb the bottoming out of the shocks. This might also transfer the weakness into the strut itself like a few guys have had, snapping rods, etc.
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by TBYODA » Mon Aug 12, 2013 4:38 pm

Yea it's dumb idea... Knew it would be too hard just push the failure down to next weaker part. Sorry not useful to the thread.
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by v7guy » Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:25 pm

if someone was feeling adventurous they could make poly versions of the ones in Mark's kit. just make a mold, mix up the poly, put it under a vacuum for a few minutes then wait for it to cure. you can get poly mixes for 70, 80, or 90 durometer ratings. I'm unsure that it would work, but it's another avenue that could be tried.
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by markmc » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:50 am

A thin nylon bushing sandwiched in the mount might help keep the rod end centered and still allow some flex without tearing the rubber.
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by Opeth » Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:46 pm

markmc wrote:A thin nylon bushing sandwiched in the mount might help keep the rod end centered and still allow some flex without tearing the rubber.


That's a possible good idea. I'll be taking mine apart here shortly and might try this.
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by TBYODA » Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:19 pm

Opeth wrote:
markmc wrote:A thin nylon bushing sandwiched in the mount might help keep the rod end centered and still allow some flex without tearing the rubber.


That's a possible good idea. I'll be taking mine apart here shortly and might try this.


I think this is good idea also, however I (if had this lift :) ) would put a nylon bushing on either side. This way there is some flex on each side and protection for both rubber bushings.
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by Opeth » Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:13 pm

TBYODA wrote:
Opeth wrote:
markmc wrote:A thin nylon bushing sandwiched in the mount might help keep the rod end centered and still allow some flex without tearing the rubber.


That's a possible good idea. I'll be taking mine apart here shortly and might try this.


I think this is good idea also, however I (if had this lift :) ) would put a nylon bushing on either side. This way there is some flex on each side and protection for both rubber bushings.


Not needed, all that nylon spacer is going to do it keep the sleeve centered in the mount and there really is no room. Both bushings nearly touch one another when the top nut is fully seated.

You should get the lift ;)
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by TBYODA » Mon Aug 19, 2013 10:23 pm

Opeth wrote:You should get the lift ;)
Saving $$ ;)
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by Trail X » Mon Aug 26, 2013 12:51 pm

With nearly 80-90k miles (unknown exactly) on my BDS bushings, it was time to replace them. I noticed a slight clang sound when I topped out. I believe this clang came from decreased tension on the bushings over time, which allowed the washer mod to clank when it became uncompressed.

Left upper shock bushing, before photo:
Image

Right upper shock bushing, before photo:
Image

As you can see, the right one was worse off.

I ordered replacements from BDS, and I found that they seem to now be shipping much larger washers. The bushings appeared to be the same.

Below you can see the comparison between the new bushings and washers, and the old ones. The new washers appear to be twice the material thickness, and maybe 1/4" greater radius.

Also note the inside-right washer (it was the top washer) appears to be nearly flat, especially when compared to the one on the far right (it was the lower washer).
Left side:
Image

Right side:
Image

The new washers increase the amount of compression of the bushings, so if I were to install it as supplied, I would not have been able to add any washers under the lower bushing (to increase my downward suspension stroke). So instead, I retained the old lower bushing washer, three of the additional washer spacers, and the new, larger OD washer up top. Since the lower washers before seemed to hold up fine, I didn't see a need to replace it.

Left shock, with new upper washer:
Image

Right shock, with new upper washer (note, this is squeezed down a bit more than it should be, because I forgot the metal tube bushing liner at first)
Image

I have two extra larger washers, if anyone thinks they could benefit from putting them on top.
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by The Roadie » Mon Aug 26, 2013 4:02 pm

Did they charge you for the bushings OR the washers?
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by Trail X » Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:45 pm

I went through my marketing contact there and got the stuff for free. I'm not sure how their service department would handle it especially after 80k miles and 5 years of use. I would have otherwise expected to pay and been fine with it, to be honest.
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by The Roadie » Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:46 pm

There service department SHOULD have given you all the parts for free due to the NO FINE PRINT warranty. They failed to do that for me and you know the outcome. I switched to Mark's kit. BDS is now dead to me.

On the other hand, I love my tune and you had problems with yours, so there's no uniformity in the world.
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by KE7WOX » Thu Sep 12, 2013 8:53 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I went through my marketing contact there and got the stuff for free. I'm not sure how their service department would handle it especially after 80k miles and 5 years of use. I would have otherwise expected to pay and been fine with it, to be honest.


They told me that they didn't supply parts to customers and I had to go through their dealer. The dealer in Phoenix ordered them, couldn't find them when he said he would, said he would order them, and never heard back from them, this was late April.
This is an aggressive post. You probably won’t like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate a post of this quality and depth.

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by Trail X » Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:09 pm

Ew, that's not cool Felipe.
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by TBYODA » Thu Sep 12, 2013 9:22 pm

James would it be possible to post the part or kit number? If I go with mark's 3" lift I might order these to try out thinking they would last better. Or do you have a better suggestion? Also do you think anyone would be able to order through your contact?
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by Trail X » Thu Sep 12, 2013 11:21 pm

I'll see if I can get some part numbers at a mimimum.
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