Fixing my steering today...

[DmccartneyFF2TB]

Nice Donny!! ive been thinking of a away to make the tie rods stronger for months. Where are those control arms from?

[bartonmd]

Mike was right. (No surprise there).

With the tie rod on top, unloading the suspension causes enough of a shift in toe to make driving the truck VERY interesting over bumps.

Fortunately, there's enough meat in the knuckle that I can taper the bottom as well. I'll shift them to the bottoms until I can get the "other" project done then flip em over again.

I am pretty sure you missed the "Mike is right" post!

LOL, sure did!

Mike

[fishsticks]

Nice Donny!! ive been thinking of a away to make the tie rods stronger for months. Where are those control arms from?

Those are just replacement stockers. I had bad bushing deflection... lockers are hard on them.

[The Roadie]

So you did the taper reamer on the vehicle instead of taking the knuckles out to a drill press?

[fishsticks]

So you did the taper reamer on the vehicle instead of taking the knuckles out to a drill press?

Yeah. My drill press isn't over at the new place yet, and honestly it wasn't too much of a chore.

[DmccartneyFF2TB]

So what is the best way on the top or the bottom of the knuckle??

[fishsticks]

So what is the best way on the top or the bottom of the knuckle??

Do the bottoms. I only went into the top originally because I was planning for my coming subframe drop and thought I could get away with flipping them early. You'll have bigtime toe problems if you put them on top with the LCAs in the stock locations.

[ruffryder59]

Do you have a part number on these? just to make sure Im looking at the right ones. Awesome job by the way.

[DmccartneyFF2TB]

Where are these from?








If I break standard full size TREs, it's only going to take out the inner, not the outer AND the inner like ours do. Also, I can order these:

[ruffryder59]

Is this what I need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130371626604?ss ... 822wt_1396 Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger. Seems like a good deal!

[fishsticks]

Is this what I need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130371626604?ss ... 822wt_1396 Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger. Seems like a good deal!

I used 07 parts... but that LOOKS right. I think they are all the same from 98+

[v7guy]

Those are the MOOG part numbers it lists there and that is really cheap. RockAuto was $32 each for the inner $48 for the outer.

[v7guy]

Any tips for getting the outer tie rod end off when it's broke and you can't hook it up to the spindle/knuckle?

[The Roadie]

Not sure what you're describing. What part of the outer TRE broke? What exactly are you trying to remove from what? Why hook something up to the spindle if you're trying to REMOVE it?

To remove a broken tapered stud from the knuckle, use a small removal tool like the little brother of the pittman arm removal tool. Or a pickle fork. To remove the threaded part from the inner tie rod end, use PB blaster the day before, and two Vise-grips. Perhaps some torch heat on the inner TRE.

[v7guy]

Yeah, that was pretty vague. Apologies.

The curved part is broke on the outer tie rod end, I can't get enough leverage on the jam nut that's up against the inner tie rod to remove it. Generally I leave the tie rod end attatched, put a wrench on the jam nut and break it loose. The tie rod end will only rotate so far, so it makes it easy to remove the jam nut.
I was working on the truck for most of the evening last night. So maybe fresh hands and eyes will help.

[The Roadie]

Got it. I'm the Vagueness Police.

You have to get a suitable tool to hold the part you don't want to move, either the threaded part outside the jam nut, or the inner tie rod end. The inner tie rod end is hardened, and that makes it tougher to bite into with a Vise-grip. I've used Vise-grip chain pliers on the trail successfully. Most hand-held channel pliers can't do the job.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Is this what I need? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130371626604?ss ... 822wt_1396 Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger. Seems like a good deal!

Any confirmation there will work? On sale for $35 so I can buy two sets and have spares.

[Philberto]

Don't worry, the uppers are coming down an equal amount to the lowers...

...as is the front diff.



Then I just need a set of coil-overs that won't break...

Waiting for info on the front diff lowering. This is what I've been hoping somebody will do for a while now, and I can't afford the cost of being the guinea pig or I'd do it myself.

[fishsticks]

Don't worry, the uppers are coming down an equal amount to the lowers...

...as is the front diff.



Then I just need a set of coil-overs that won't break...

Waiting for info on the front diff lowering. This is what I've been hoping somebody will do for a while now, and I can't afford the cost of being the guinea pig or I'd do it myself.

I made a recent acquisition of another wheeler. This has stopped development of my TB in it's tracks.

You still have a chance to be the guinea pig!

[navigator]

Kyle, if you don't hear anything from Donny, V7guy just did the same mod on his, you might check with him. He had the thread about the loaner reamer.