Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Maxing front suspension lift (split from UCA discussion)

BDS, ReadyLift, Smaxx... You name it, we know about it here.

by Rob93 » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:38 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:
fishsticks wrote:I haven't yet. I'm ordering some additional shims and installing them before I realign.


Good call. I'm willing to bet that will bring it close to dead on. I'm thinking about trying this but instead of using a second shim, getting the ready lift front setup and losing the shim I have now.


I was thinking about trying that too, just the ready lift is much more expensive... Also not to hijack and this may be dumb but will adding lift to the outside of the strut (i.e ready lift, marks shim) extend the shock?
Last edited by Philberto on Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: After extensive selecting and moving, this is where we split from reversing UCA's to talking about maxing out our front suspensions and possibilities for a Solid Axle Swap. Enjoy!
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by fishsticks » Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:05 pm

Rob93 wrote:I was thinking about trying that too, just the ready lift is much more expensive...



Same reason I'm going for extra shims and some replacement bolts.


Also not to hijack and this may be dumb but will adding lift to the outside of the strut (i.e ready lift, marks shim) extend the shock?



Nope... shock stays the same length.
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
02 TrailBlazer LTZ - 35s, lockers, balls - Gone but not forgotten - Build
User avatar
fishsticks
Moderator
 
Posts: 4356
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:30 pm
Location: WA, Vancouver
Name: Donny
Vehicle Year: Other
Vehicle: Other Vehicle
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by Rob93 » Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:08 pm

Also not to hijack and this may be dumb but will adding lift to the outside of the strut (i.e ready lift, marks shim) extend the shock?



Nope... shock stays the same length.[/quote]

Hmmm, I may be going with an extra shim or the ready lift front vs the stiffer springs then
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by fishsticks » Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:12 pm

Honestly I think doing a stiffer spring just for height is a little silly. I wouldn't even consider them unless my springs were sagging badly or I had a steel bumper/winch weighing down the front end.



Now a longer spring/shock.............
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
02 TrailBlazer LTZ - 35s, lockers, balls - Gone but not forgotten - Build
User avatar
fishsticks
Moderator
 
Posts: 4356
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:30 pm
Location: WA, Vancouver
Name: Donny
Vehicle Year: Other
Vehicle: Other Vehicle
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by Rob93 » Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:17 pm

fishsticks wrote:Honestly I think doing a stiffer spring just for height is a little silly. I wouldn't even consider them unless my springs were sagging badly or I had a steel bumper/winch weighing down the front end.



Now a longer spring/shock.............


I was going to go with a mild lift from stiffer springs, in order to keep my ride from being too stiff.... But I am reconsidering just going with the extra shim, or possibly talking to mark and seeing the possibilities of him making a thicker shim.... However I did just email ready lift to see if they have a price on just the front, i doubt it, but who knows they may cut the price to something reasonable...
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by MrSmithsTB » Sun Aug 01, 2010 9:27 pm

See, I have Marks lift, so with stock upper strut mounts I am not to sure about adding longer bolts. Readylift or something similar would allow adding 2" as opposed to 1.5" worth of shims. As long as the other front components could handle it, this could effectively allow for 4" of suspension lift. Not to mention that doing that up front and adding another spacer in the rear would also mean that the added height acts as a body lift in the respect that they keep the tires 2" further from the body under full compression, allowing us to run larger tires without bottoming out.
back in the saddle
TB BUILD
User avatar
MrSmithsTB
Veteran
 
Posts: 1756
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:28 pm
Location: EHT, NJ
Name: Bob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Other GMT360/370
DriveTrain: AWD w/ G80
Rank: Offroad Rated

by Trail X » Mon Aug 02, 2010 9:27 am

Rob93 wrote:
Nope... shock stays the same length.

Hmmm, I may be going with an extra shim or the ready lift front vs the stiffer springs then

Shock stays the same length, but the strut becomes longer... as opposed to an inside-the-strut spacer.
8-) Build Thread | ExPo Build | YouTube Videos
Not all who wander are lost. -Tolkien
User avatar
Trail X
Founder
 
Posts: 9935
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:22 pm
Location: VA, Roanoke
Name: James Downing
Vehicle Year: 2005
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Expedition Guide

by Rob93 » Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:48 pm

I emailed Readylift... I got a reply today saying that they will not sell the front end lift seperately.... This isn't too bad, the rear Readylift block goes on the top of the coil, so you could make a spring sandwhich rather then have the rear go to waste
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by MrSmithsTB » Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:52 pm

Or someone could be the lab rat and try this:
back in the saddle
TB BUILD
User avatar
MrSmithsTB
Veteran
 
Posts: 1756
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:28 pm
Location: EHT, NJ
Name: Bob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Other GMT360/370
DriveTrain: AWD w/ G80
Rank: Offroad Rated

by Rob93 » Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:57 pm

I remember about a month back on TV someone was trying to order that lift and everyone ended up talking them out of it.... They had already ordered it and was conviced to cancel it... They could have been the guinea pig! By the looks of the picture, the bolts are in the wrong place, but I feel like they just used a picture of a similar lift, and not the exact product... I mean it's so much cheaper then the Readylift.... I might try it


I looked at their other products... seems they use the same picture for a lot of their lifts.... They have a 3" as well as a 2" lift for the front
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by glfredrick » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:29 pm

If that is all the lift is, why not just make one. Metal work is not rocket science... :poke:
http://www.UCORA.org == The United Christian Off-Road Alliance, a family friendly place
2003 Trailblazer = got groceries?
1995 Dodge RAM 2500 w/Cummins = got tow rig?
1986-90 Ford Ranger truggy = got rock?
User avatar
glfredrick
Contributing Author
 
Posts: 130
Joined: Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:28 pm
Location: Eagle, WI
Name: Guy
Vehicle Year: 2003
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 4WD

by MrSmithsTB » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:48 pm

I don't have a welder yet. Whereas this is a good excuse to get one sooner, I would not want to learn from my mistakes when my personal safety was at risk. So, if it means spending $90 for something that is at least going to be made properly(or have someone to hold accountable other than myself), I think it is worth saving the welding practice for underbody armor.
back in the saddle
TB BUILD
User avatar
MrSmithsTB
Veteran
 
Posts: 1756
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:28 pm
Location: EHT, NJ
Name: Bob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Other GMT360/370
DriveTrain: AWD w/ G80
Rank: Offroad Rated

by Rob93 » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:51 pm

MrSmithsTB wrote:I don't have a welder yet. Whereas this is a good excuse to get one sooner, I would not want to learn from my mistakes when my personal safety was at risk. So, if it means spending $90 for something that is at least going to be made properly(or have someone to hold accountable other than myself), I think it is worth saving the welding practice for underbody armor.


:Iagree: I don't want to put my first metal working project to a 75 mph, 5000 lb test
Rob93
Trail-Blazer
 
Posts: 276
Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 5:52 pm
Location: FL, Ft. Lauderdale
Name: Rob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 2WD

by Regulator1175 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:12 am

After taking the front suspension down on Hardtrailz truck this evening, I don't think there is any possible way to get that spacer on top of the 2.5" front lift we have already. with it lower end connected, and me (300 lbs) standing on it, there may have been 1/4 of an inch space in the upper mount.
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.
So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
- Mark Twain
--Build--
User avatar
Regulator1175
Veteran
 
Posts: 1048
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:48 pm
Location: IN, Warsaw
Name: Matthew McClelland
Vehicle Year: 2002
Vehicle: GMC Envoy
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ G80
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by fishsticks » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:17 am

Interesting.

This is with the UCA disconnected? Flipped? I suspect that's due to the way the rubber sticks up out of the stock upper mount. I could be wrong though.

I have a GENEROUS 7/8" inch between the top of my RC spacers and the perches.

My front fenders are at 37.25" on 31.9" tires... I forget my hub-fender measurement. I think it's 23".
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
02 TrailBlazer LTZ - 35s, lockers, balls - Gone but not forgotten - Build
User avatar
fishsticks
Moderator
 
Posts: 4356
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:30 pm
Location: WA, Vancouver
Name: Donny
Vehicle Year: Other
Vehicle: Other Vehicle
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by Regulator1175 » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:31 am

fishsticks wrote:Interesting.

This is with the UCA disconnected? Flipped? I suspect that's due to the way the rubber sticks up out of the stock upper mount. I could be wrong though.

I have a GENEROUS 7/8" inch between the top of my RC spacers and the perches.

My front fenders are at 37.25" on 31.9" tires... I forget my hub-fender measurement. I think it's 23".


That was with just the strut tower upper bolts removed. If you were to disconnect the upper control arm at the ball joint there would be alot of room, but how are you going to get the ball joint re-connected? He has not flipped the UCA's, so I am not sure if that will provide any further clearance or not.
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.
So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
- Mark Twain
--Build--
User avatar
Regulator1175
Veteran
 
Posts: 1048
Joined: Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:48 pm
Location: IN, Warsaw
Name: Matthew McClelland
Vehicle Year: 2002
Vehicle: GMC Envoy
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ G80
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by fishsticks » Tue Aug 03, 2010 2:56 am

Regulator1175 wrote:That was with just the strut tower upper bolts removed. If you were to disconnect the upper control arm at the ball joint there would be alot of room, but how are you going to get the ball joint re-connected? He has not flipped the UCA's, so I am not sure if that will provide any further clearance or not.



Ah ok. That jives with what I remember mine being. Thanks for testing that out.

So it's a safe assumption that flipping them gets you 3/4" of clearance or so...

As long as I don't get stuck on a jobsite all day tomorrow like I did today... I plan to capitalize on this information.
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
02 TrailBlazer LTZ - 35s, lockers, balls - Gone but not forgotten - Build
User avatar
fishsticks
Moderator
 
Posts: 4356
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 11:30 pm
Location: WA, Vancouver
Name: Donny
Vehicle Year: Other
Vehicle: Other Vehicle
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Extreme Offroader

by Trail X » Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:23 am

Fishsticks - you have the 2" ready lift + the 0.5" top spacer - right? So that means about 2.75" total lift right now.

If you have room for about another inch of top spacer - that means you could get essentially 4" of total front-end lift without stressing the UBJ too much. Wow.

Thanks DZP for bringing all of this to light! :party:

Now the only last question seems to be - can it be aligned?

Now that I begin to think it all through... I think the best possible suspension combination would be an 89 spring + readylift ... or some sorta combo like that. Hmm... :druken:
8-) Build Thread | ExPo Build | YouTube Videos
Not all who wander are lost. -Tolkien
User avatar
Trail X
Founder
 
Posts: 9935
Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:22 pm
Location: VA, Roanoke
Name: James Downing
Vehicle Year: 2005
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Expedition Guide

by MrSmithsTB » Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:00 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Fishsticks - you have the 2" ready lift + the 0.5" top spacer - right? So that means about 2.75" total lift right now.

If you have room for about another inch of top spacer - that means you could get essentially 4" of total front-end lift without stressing the UBJ too much. Wow.

Thanks DZP for bringing all of this to light! :party:

Now the only last question seems to be - can it be aligned?

Now that I begin to think it all through... I think the best possible suspension combination would be an 89 spring + readylift ... or some sorta combo like that. Hmm... :druken:


:Iagree: Best lift is always the one that requires the least amount of parts. But if this does leave room for more lift, now everyone can start playing around to fine tune the components until everything is simple and functional. Instead of letting this poor guy do all of the work, we should all join in the gold rush! :salut:
back in the saddle
TB BUILD
User avatar
MrSmithsTB
Veteran
 
Posts: 1756
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:28 pm
Location: EHT, NJ
Name: Bob
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Other GMT360/370
DriveTrain: AWD w/ G80
Rank: Offroad Rated

by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:04 pm

I should have the 88 sprinds in with mark inner spacer and outside spacer and will see how that works. I am not gonna flip yet since I think I need ball joints and will flip then to see what difference there is.
I hate to advocate weird chemicals, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone...but
they've always worked for me.
User avatar
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
 
Posts: 6342
Joined: Sat Sep 12, 2009 1:49 am
Location: IN, Batesville
Name: Kyle
Vehicle Year: 2006
Vehicle: Chevrolet TrailBlazer
DriveTrain: 4WD w/ Aftermarket Locker
Rank: Extreme Offroader

Next

Return to Lifts / Suspension