Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Tie rod ends + bushings + other

Dumping ground for offroad Trailblazer or Envoy general discussion.

by hilljb » Mon Jul 06, 2015 2:34 am

Colorado is eating my truck. I'm looking for advice on tightening things up as we're a bit squirrelly while going down the highway right now.

Here's my problem: I know the sway bar links are worn all-around and I know I have a bad driver-side tie rod end. I plan on fixing all of this next weekend, by replacing the outer tie rod end, removing the rear sway bar links (and possibly the bar... if that can be done), and replacing the front sway bar links. But, I'm wondering if I should go further and replace more while I'm at it.

Is there a way to test the upper or lower control arm bushings? Can I test the ball joints?

Symptoms:

1) I have increasingly bad highway squirrelliness (I think that may be a new word) and it doesn't seem that the tie rod end is the culprit as the steering is still relatively tight.
2) I hear a new "clunk" in the front suspension system somewhere. It resonates through the frame and is therefore hard to pinpoint.

Ideas?
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by v7guy » Mon Jul 06, 2015 9:38 am

I generally check ball joints by disassembling and then moving the ball joint by hand.
Upper A arm bushings are usually fairly obvious, especially if you can get someone to shake the vehicle. Lowers are a little tougher, I usually don't call it until I can get the shock off it and get a pry bar in there.

Clunks are typically sway bar end links in these things, followed by bushings.

I believe 2002 was the only year with the sway bar bolted to the frame, everything newer you have to either cut it out, or lift the motor to gain the room to pull it outta the frame.
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by Eredin » Mon Jul 06, 2015 1:14 pm

The rear sway bar is bolted on, easy to remove. Front, is as Jason said, a PITA. I have mine flipped up where the bushings hold it in place, no issues. However, looks like you are just replacing the end links on the front anyway.

I agree with Jason's assessment of different points. The lower control arm bushings are a known problem, so don't rule them out. Clunking/popping could also be a symptom of strut tower mounts separating. This is common on most of the 2.5" lifts.
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by Trail X » Mon Jul 06, 2015 5:15 pm

Get rid of those swaybars altogether, you won't miss them after you get over the initial shock of driving without them. All they do is make rough roads feel rougher, add maintenance, and reduce a little roll around corners... not worth it.
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by lifted voy » Mon Aug 03, 2015 10:17 pm

To check the ball joints jack up the front of the vehicle and put a jack stand under each control arm (I put it where the lower shock mount goes through the arm), lower vehicle onto stands and get a long bar of sorts (I use the jack handle) and put the bar under the tire and lift up and down on it repeatedly while someone watches the ball joints. You'll see play if there's any.
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