Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

2 inch body lift gap.

Dumping ground for offroad Trailblazer or Envoy general discussion.

by bobfoe95 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:31 pm

I was thinking about a 2 inch body lift for the trailblazer. I had a truck long ago that I put a body lift on which caused issues. The gaps between the body and frame allowed water and other much into the wiring. When we lift our trailblazers with the body lift is this issue present? I have not really seen gap guards for sale. Thanks!
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by v7guy » Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:18 pm

If you get one of the body lift kits it relocates the bumpers so there's no gap there, if you're talking about the gap between the frame and body then there's already space there stock, you're just increasing it a bit. I've not heard of any issues with body lifts on these trucks.
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by bobfoe95 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 7:20 pm

The gap I would be most concerned with is the gap inside the front fenders. If I were to get into water and mud that gap could allow some stuff into the engine bay. Nobody has had any issues though?
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by Eredin » Thu Jul 17, 2014 7:56 pm

Crap gets in the engine bay without a body lift as is, so it really won't be much worse after the fact. I haven't been in the scene long, but I have not heard of any issue either.
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by bobfoe95 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 8:14 pm

Alright, thank you guys for the help.
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by bobfoe95 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:14 pm

I do have another question for you guys. I noticed that after the body lift install the hitch seems to not have a gap between it and the bumper, is it relocated? Also will a rear bumper brush guard work with the body lift, or does it pair to the frame?
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by ErikSS » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:22 pm

bobfoe95 wrote:I do have another question for you guys. I noticed that after the body lift install the hitch seems to not have a gap between it and the bumper, is it relocated? Also will a rear bumper brush guard work with the body lift, or does it pair to the frame?


I haven't seen a rear bumper brush gaurd for one of these. The rear bumper (the metal bumper itself) is part of the hitch. So when you relocate the bumper, the hitch moves too.
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by bobfoe95 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:47 pm

This is the sort of guard I was talking about-- http://www.carid.com/2007-chevy-trailbl ... 66464.html

Not much but better than nothing. If the hitch goes along with the bumper relocation will that decrease towing capacity, or are the rear bumper brackets adequate enough? Asking because on the truck I did the relocation brackets rendered the bumper useless with a load.
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by navigator » Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:05 am

I'm running the 2" Zone BL and the relocation brackets are stout. I expect the ones Mark has for the 3" BL are just as robust. I tow an 18ft bass boat all the time. I expect they will pull anything the TB can safely tow and stop.
The only concern in my mind with the BL was when I had to chop my bumper brackets off, you get a little queasy in your stomach wondering if you are doing it right. Other than that no issues.

BTW as far as mud etc getting in the engine bay, most of the guys here take out the fender liners anyway.
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by ErikSS » Fri Jul 18, 2014 7:27 am

From the pictures I can't be sure how those mount. I can see them reducing your departure angle though. They remind me of the front bully bar which also looks nice but has questionable functionality.
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by Lauron » Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:06 am

bobfoe95, I share your concern about the gap if only a mater of keeping the engine from being packed with mud and debris. I retained the front fender liners to protect the electrical connection to the doors as well. For the gap I added the plastic liner cut from sheet material. This is what I had available and it is too thin. When I find thicker material, I will switch it out.

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by Eredin » Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:09 am

ErikSS wrote:From the pictures I can't be sure how those mount. I can see them reducing your departure angle though. They remind me of the front bully bar which also looks nice but has questionable functionality.


Terrible functionality, other than a minor radiator guard. Looks good, but it gets hit a lot on any modest angle.
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by navigator » Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:13 am

it won't help the radiator at all. He is referring to a rear bumper guard :-)
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by Eredin » Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:49 am

navigator wrote:it won't help the radiator at all. He is referring to a rear bumper guard :-)


I was referencing ErikSS' front bull bar statement. ;)
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by bobfoe95 » Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:31 am

That plastic sheeting is a very good idea. I cannot tell from the pictures but how did you attach it to the frame, or is it only attached at the top?

I am not too worried about departure angles since the ultimate goal for this build is an overland rig with a trailer, which is why I ask about the towing.
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by Trail X » Fri Jul 18, 2014 11:49 am

I'd prob derate it, but in reality, you need to talk to Mark and/or Zone and see what their load cases were and safety factors, and have THEM tell you what the kit's tow rating is.
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by bobfoe95 » Fri Jul 18, 2014 1:42 pm

Very true.

Thanks for the help everyone.
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by Eredin » Fri Jul 18, 2014 5:06 pm

Mark is excellent to work with, highly recommend!
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by Lauron » Fri Jul 18, 2014 10:31 pm

The plastic sheeting is attached with U Type fasteners set on the inner fender sheet metal. You just need to drill holes in the sheet metal and slid the fasteners over the holes. I used fender washers on the screws to reduce tear out.

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