Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

i want a locking diff!

Dumping ground for offroad Trailblazer or Envoy general discussion.

by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:18 pm

I guess I'll just have to find an 06+ then, but it won't be for a while I'm looking first at a lift kit then adapters to6x5.5 and then get some nice wheels and tires, has anyone heard of instead just changing out the hubs to a 6x5.5 I've heard it's been done on other vehicles but not on the tb, reason I ask is because I'm planning on changing all 4 any ways seeing as the front drivers side is going bad (I get buzzing sounds during right turns at 35+ mph , also I've noticed that the dust guard on the breaks can get pretty annoying mine rub sometimes when making turns and I'm always getting crap caught up in them so is it a good idea to remove them ? It doesn't seem like much damage can come from doing so but maybe they also prevent excess overheating, but if that's the case then I wouldn't mind spending some money on some slotted and drilled rotors I've always preffered them on cars so I'm sure they would help very much with all the steep downhills we have here in Colorado.
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by Shdwdrgn » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:35 pm

I thought you were on a budget? :) Did you consider painting your wheels instead of replacing them? Or are you planning on on getting wider/offset rims?

Yes the dust guards can be removed. I know you can get a pair of rear replacements off Amazon for about $20, but I just took mine off and never bothered.

I've towed a 5000# catapult up to Estes and back without any braking problems. Mind you, I have trailer brakes, but the truck still sees more load coming down the hill. So I'm not sure you'd be gaining anything for the price difference?
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by Trail X » Fri Jul 11, 2014 6:14 pm

Drilled and slotted are a gimmick at our speeds and loads.

Changing out lug patterns would require new rear axle shafts and new front hubs. You won't find a front hub that matches ours with a different bolt pattern. Front ABS VSSs are inside the hubs.
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by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:06 pm

Well I was up in Idaho springs Colorado and the entire downhill from the spot I was , was about 10 miles of curvy thin roads and when I got to the bottom I litteraly had to waste 10 bottles of water cooling the brakes off I had to creep to the gas station with my hazards on because they were tricking hot they barely did anything I had to stop there for 30 minutes after dousing them in water so that they could cool off , and I'm sure I'd be better off getting adapters as I want wheel spacing any way, these are the wheels and tires I want
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, want new wheels for looks and because when I go visit home in az me and a friend always take 4 spares because the places we go are riddled with sharp rocks , cactuses, hidden sharp branches and many other things and yes we have used all 4 spares so I'd get the New wheels and tires and have 2 spares up top , one in the back and one on the back hatch, that's 5 spares actually because of the original spare and as excessive as that sounds I think it's a great idea especially if I'm going on a long trip into the middle of the desert
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by Trail X » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:09 pm

Oy, next time gear down and engine brake. And, you should invest in a tire plug kit if you haven`t.
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by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:12 pm

I hate tire plug kits ever since I got a flat on my old car and did the plug and then my damn tire exploded going 50, and I did gear down haha did everything I was supposed to and the brakes were new also it's just the trailblazer was literally that steep
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by Shdwdrgn » Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:31 pm

Did you try 4LO? Yes, its a serious question.

FWIW, the 3.42's suck balls in the mountains. For general mountain highway driving, there's no ideal gear for costing downhill. This was yet another reason why I swapped for 4.10's. I can't believe I did my gear swap over 9 months ago and I *still* haven't taken a trip in the mountains to see the difference. Honestly though, unless you do 100% interstate driving or you're running 13" wheels, the 3.42's are completely worthless even for general driving.

Since you're considering moving up to larger tires anyway, I wouldn't even think about changing the rear axle until you have the money to also do the front, and then get yourself some 4.10's. How large of tire are you thinking? If you are going to buy new rims, why don't you just get some with the correct backspacing so you don't have to mess with wheel spacers?
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by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:14 pm

I'm thinking 32s and I want to have more options as far as wheels so I was going to do adapters with a 1.25" spacing and wheels I was going to do 6x5.5 15x5 so that should give me plenty of room to fit up to a33 without any cutting of plastic
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by TBYODA » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:53 pm

Last edited by TBYODA on Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:00 pm

I'm fine with removing some plastic and cutting it's not too much work
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by mattrustable » Fri Jul 11, 2014 10:50 pm

I have Marks 3" suspension lift and 32.8" tires (285/70R17BFG ATs) and had to cut some wheel well out. Nothing major. I also have 3.42 gearing and it definitely lost power with the bigger gears but I am currently working on getting an 8.6" rear end and putting in the 4.56s.
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by jrivs4x4tb » Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:13 pm

Any rubbing turning on an angle or going over big obstacles?
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by mattrustable » Sat Jul 12, 2014 12:18 am

There is a slight "catch" on the bumper every now and then but nothing horrible like before I cut some wheel well out. I am putting on a Marks 3" body soon so it won't be a problem too much longer.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:30 am

jrivs4x4tb wrote:I'm fine with removing some plastic and cutting it's not too much work


I'm not here to tell you what you want, but thats a decent amount of extra work for 1/4" thinner spacer. Same price, i believe, as the 1.5" which would allow a ready-use install. Whats the reason for only wanting the 1.25"? Only way I could see justifying that would be if they were free or damn cheap. Just my opinion.
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by mattrustable » Sat Jul 12, 2014 11:54 am

Oh yeah forgot to mention I have 1.5" wheel spacers from Mark as well
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by jrivs4x4tb » Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:03 am

Here's a question, my fan clutch seems to be always fully engaged, besides the loud noise and loss of power is it really a bad thing? Or can I just ignore it, and also does it need replacement or can it be a simple fluid issue or sensor issue?
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by revamp » Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:27 am

jrivs4x4tb wrote:Here's a question, my fan clutch seems to be always fully engaged, besides the loud noise and loss of power is it really a bad thing? Or can I just ignore it, and also does it need replacement or can it be a simple fluid issue or sensor issue?

Wrong thread I believe.

Poke around for more details on this but it could be temperature related (sensor, thermo) and the loud noise, it could be your water pump going, or just needs a new fan clutch. I wouldn't think it's good for the fan to go all the time.

Run with that.
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by Trailblazin Ahead » Mon Dec 15, 2014 3:30 am

What about a spartan locker for the rear or an grizzly locker. Damn I didnt want to change my gears so I'll stick to the 31s when my funds are back to being OK I'll lift it with 31s and wheel spacers the sway bar delete what's that exactly do
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by Trail X » Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:15 pm

If you can find another locker that fits and you like better, go for it. Nothing stopping you.

Swaybar delete is simply removing the swaybar, front and/or rear. Most remove the rear only. It allows greater articulation of the suspension, which allows you to travel over larger obstacles without lifting a wheel or consequently needing a locker.
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by Trailblazin Ahead » Mon Jan 19, 2015 12:21 am

If the trailblazer has the 8.0 and shares common things to the 8.5 can I use a 8.5 locker in my 8.0 if same gear ratio etc I mean there's difference between the two but not much
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