Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Winch question's and help...maybe

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by tarsh » Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:55 am

OK fellas, now that my 4 wheel is working I started makeing my winch mount and front bumper. I bought an 8500 winch on a budget and apon further reading I discovered it wasn't water proof :wallbash: :hissyfit: . If I was to purchase a power head that is water proof with the same specs would it work? Or am I going to have to make mine waterproof. I can't seem to upload a pick right now. Here's the specs

Performance 12VDC
Single line rated pull 8500lb(4300kg)
Motor 5.5hp/4.0kw,Series Wound
Control Remote switch,12ft(3.7m)lead
Gear train 3 Stage Planetary
Gear reduction ratio 218:1
Clutch Sliding Ring Gear
Braking Action Automatic In-The-Drum
Drum size Drum size Diameter2.5"(63.5mm) Length 8.8"(224mm)
Cable 94ft of 21/64" diameter(28m of 8.3mm diameter)
Fairlead 4-Way Roller Fairlead
Remote Control Included
Battery Recommended:650CCA minimum for winching
Finish Black/Dark Grey
Weight N.W.84lbs(40kg) G.W. 94lbs((44.5kg)
Overall dimentions (LxWxH)21.3"x6.3"x8.6"(562x160x218mm)
Mounting Bolt Pattern 10.00±0.015"x4.50±0.010"(254x114.3mm)


Electric winch with series wound motor


Model Capcity Power Steel cable Size (L X W X H) NW
LD8500LB DC12V/ Ø8.3mm X 24m 552 X 160 X 218mm 39KG


Pull, Speed, Amperes, Volts (First Layer)


Line Pull (lbs./ kg) Line Speed FPM(m/min) Motor (Amps)
0 24.6ft (7.8m) 80
3500 (1587) 11.0ft (3.5m) 190
4500 (2040) 10.0ft (3.2m) 220
5500 (2494) 9.2ft (2.8m) 250
6500 (2948) 8.2ft (2.5m) 280
7500 (3400) 7.5ft (2.3m) 320
8500 (3855) 6.5ft (2.0m) 360


Line Pull And Rope Capacity In Layer


Layer Rated Line Pull (lbs./kgs) Total Rope On Drum (ft/m )
1 8500 (3855) 16.2 (5.0)
2 6900 (3129) 39.0 (12.0)
3 5845 (2650) 65.0 (20.0)
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by Trail X » Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:58 pm

The solenoids for winches aren't rocket science by any means (unless its some sort of solid state), and most every winch motor works the same way. I'm pretty sure they are just universal motors (which means they have brushes, an armature winding and a field winding. Pretty much any power head should work if you can match the wires up properly.

Why do you need it water proof? Really, the only reason you need a totally water proof solenoid is if you're planning to operate your winch underwater. A non waterproof solenoid generally still survives after being dunked and dried out a bit.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:12 pm

Most winches are not waterproof and many call the ones labelled as such a marketing gimmick. I would not be worried.


--- You can use a good grease in it(if you want to take it apart right away) and silicone the connections and seals/caps and be as good as possible. Not much to it really.
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by boog2006 » Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:27 pm

I had issues with my badlands winch. It shorted out when i tried to set it up in the middle of a down pour (didn't think it was going to stop that day). Opened the solenoid box let it dry out and everythings fine...I plan to seal the box and it should be good I think.
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by tarsh » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:50 pm

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Got it mounted. Spent allllll day fabricating a mounting plate. I have a few pics if your intrested. I just don't want it to fail me. So, it should be OK if I do some of my own waterproofing?
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by Cable810 » Sun Mar 30, 2014 10:45 pm

Cool Now come and fab me up one :happy whip:
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by tarsh » Sun Mar 30, 2014 10:52 pm

IMAG0022.jpg

IMAG0021.jpg

Ooooo man! Pain in the ass
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by Trail X » Mon Mar 31, 2014 4:36 pm

How about some more pictures of how that thing attaches to the frame?

Your radiator looks very susceptible to damage. I'd work on that before the winch mount.
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by tarsh » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:40 am

Its welded directly. And I'm working on a skid plate at the moment.
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by Trail X » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:46 am

You welded your plate directly to the frame? Interesting.

What thickness did you use for the main plate?
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by tarsh » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:58 am

Its like almost 1/4 inch plate. Idk if you know anything about cellphone tower's but its a port hole cover from a mono pole. Heavy duty stuff. Same stuff the huge Steele power line poles are made of. I have some square stock in the front that's knotched out for the winch hardware. I'll take some picks of the whole thing later.
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by tarsh » Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:50 pm

Sry no pics yet. Got a buldge in my tire yesterday so it was onto other things. Hopefully I can get them tonight
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by Trail X » Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:15 pm

Before you get out in the sticks with it, I'd try to stall out your winch and see if you can deform your plate at all, just to be safe. Better to break in the driveway than in the woods.
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by tarsh » Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:20 pm

Yeah. I did intentionally get stuck just to test it. And it worked, very well. I'll have to try again after I fix my tire issue.
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by v7guy » Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:21 pm

Nathan, did you put any reinforcements on the under side, or a lip on the back edge of the plate? I ask cause it doesn't look like it.

Most of the winch plates that are sold have a lip at the back edge and they are actually 1/4" plate. Not to mention they're not as large as the plate you and I have... so with the larger flat plate there's more leverage being put between the winch mount bolts and the frame rails, I could see the possibility of the plate flexing... especially when the pull is at an angle.

I've been using the 3/16" plate winch mount plate for a good while now and with the ribs on the underside and the lip at the back I haven't had any issues at all. I wouldn't have even thought to add those things if Mike hadn't suggested it. But it makes sense in hindsight and after looking at other products. By you saying it's almost 1/4" I'm guessing you've got something about 3/16".

Your plate will probably be fine, but I'm of the mindset that something that's too much is better, especially when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere.
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by tarsh » Wed Apr 02, 2014 6:29 pm

I will throw up some pics of what I got in a few minutes here. As soon as I get home
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by tarsh » Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:39 pm

IMAG0039.jpg
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IMAG0037.jpg
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by tarsh » Wed Apr 02, 2014 7:40 pm

IMAG0043.jpg
IMAG0041.jpg
IMAG0040.jpg
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by Trail X » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:39 pm

Not to be picky, but those look like some porous welds. Also, you really need to wrap your weld at the back corners of your plate. That's a perfect place for it to begin to unzip.

I also have no real good reference in your pictures, but a lot of that looks like 10 gauge plate. I'd get a good measurement on the thickness of your main plate and report back.

And honestly, I'd grind out and reweld a lot of your seams.
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by darring70 » Wed Apr 02, 2014 9:56 pm

Looks like you need a good rad skid plate
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