Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

frame horn width

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by WyoJeeper » Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:28 pm

New to the forum. I have a question, what is the width of the front frame horns? I am looking at instead of messing with the stock IFS, going straight to a solid axle in the front. A wagoneer D44 front with either leafs or use it with coils and radius arms. Has anyone thought to use a 2wd oil pan with the 4.2? I would think a SS rear would hold up to 35s or so. If not a full float cab and chassis width 14 bolt, roughly 62" wide. Just random thoughts. Thinking maybe a NP241or out of a Rubicon.
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by The Roadie » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:15 pm

Welcome!
Even the 2WD has the same oil pan. The shaft goes through a cast tube, so you can just yank the differential and it won't leak.
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by chevycrew » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:25 pm

search, and read, much of what you talk about has been done, or already researched.


c&c rear is 63, waggy front 62 when 8 lug, but, this would only get you 35s to 37s or so. With full width axles my tires just barely clear the frame when turning.

If you look at the width of the guys running spacers, you are very close to just running full width axles.

If you seriously need a solid axle, just go to 1 tons and be done.

If you change the stock trans to t-case adapter from the 5 bolt pattern to the 6 bolt pattern then the rubi case will bolt up, but you will have to change the output shaft in the transmission to match the rubi case. The input in the rubi case is not changeable.


Also with the c&c rear with factory brakes, (no e-brake if you do a disc swap) there is no room for rear shocks outside the frame.
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by chevycrew » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:32 pm

I keep thinking of more crap too, my 36.5" spring pad width dana 60 put the leaf springs directly under the frame.
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by WyoJeeper » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:37 pm

My biggest thing here is overall width. Mudflap laws and the trails are tight out here. Alot of the Jeep guys run narrowed one tons.
And thanks for the info.
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by chevycrew » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:45 pm

yeah, I understand the width thing. The trailblazer is only 4" narrower than a Tahoe, may not be the best rig for tight trails.


My drivers doors shows that from in Washington...
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by WyoJeeper » Sat Aug 25, 2012 12:46 am

Ok what about running a dually width D60 front with HMMV wheels? I was reading your build thread and it has me thinking. I may just start gathering parts this winter and build this spring. I like your doubler setup as well. Thinking a NP241OR with a Box4rocks in front like yours. Just gives me alot of ideas.
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by chevycrew » Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:12 am

honestly, the 241or, with a box 4 rocks is way overkill, even with 4.56 gears and 40s.

I rarely ever use low-low, 2.72x2.72=7.40:1 low range. I think once on ultimate adventure?

The 241or would be 4x2.72=10.88:1 low range.

Reason being, without a full manual shift conversion, we only have 1st and 2nd gears in any low range lower than 2.72. there is the option of putting the vss in the trans, but that is untested in our application.

a dually axle is 8-10" wider than stock full width, so around 77" wide up front. Dually 14 bolt is 72" so spacers on the rear to match would be needed. then run the deeper backspace hummer wheels. then thats a 8.5" wide wheel with 7" backspace, so your looking at a overall width of something like 86" wide. Thats where I am at with a 69" wide axle and 17x9.5" beadlocks on 4" backspace.

H1 wheels severely limits your tire selection.


cheap and easy is a stock width srw dana 60, and h2 17" alum wheels. thats about as narrow as i would want to be. (and i have run that combo.) my tow rig is setup that way, with 12.50 wide tires it is 80" wide outside of tire.
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by WyoJeeper » Sat Aug 25, 2012 2:05 pm

Well that would work out good for me. Going to start looking for a D60 front and misc parts and pieces. And I think just a box4rocks and a regular NP241 tcase.
thanks for the info.
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