Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

44 gal tank install/ help

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by chevycrew » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:36 pm

The reason behind the aux gauge is to not burn up the pump. I would have to look at the filler more.
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by Trail X » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:46 pm

Ah... good point. There must be an automatic cutoff switch of some sort that you could plumb into the tank, then wire inline with the pump.
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by navigator » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:17 pm

James you are saying you would pump fuel out of one tank and into the other, is that right?
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by Trail X » Tue Feb 14, 2012 10:43 am

Yes, just use it as a large Jerry can with it's own pump.
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by RimoniManu » Tue Feb 14, 2012 4:50 pm

Well I'm glad to see some of you guys are taking on the idea. Yesterday I sealed the inside of my tank with POR-15. It's a silverish metalic looking liquid that's poured in and then just rotate the tank to cover all the insides. I only used about 3/5 of a quart. Takes 4 days to dry so till then I'll continue to weld up my new rear axle. Here's some pics of how I re-routed the coolant lines.
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by Trail X » Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:43 pm

Since I'm not familliar with the EXTs, that is both a refrigerant supply and return, and engine coolant supply and return?

Did you flange the pipe before fitting the hose on?

Even if you flanged the refrigerant, I'd be surprised if it didn't leak.
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by fishsticks » Wed Feb 15, 2012 3:09 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Since I'm not familliar with the EXTs, that is both a refrigerant supply and return, and engine coolant supply and return?

Did you flange the pipe before fitting the hose on?

Even if you flanged the refrigerant, I'd be surprised if it didn't leak.


:Iagree: I thought the same thing, but wasn't sure.

No way a hose clamp is going to hold on the high side of the AC lines.
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by RimoniManu » Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:44 pm

Yes correct, ext has both ref. and coolant supply and return lines in the rear. Coolant lines don't leak. My AC system hasn't been charged ever since I did my engine swap two years ago. My POR-15 is still drying. Looks good inside so far. I had a small puddle of the stuff where I was draining my tank and once this stuff is dried it's pretty tuff. Almost looks and feels like JB weld, but not meant for the strength. Hope this weekend I can get it in.
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by madmanvillain » Thu Feb 16, 2012 2:22 am

At least double up the hose clamps. Trust me.
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by chevycrew » Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:02 am

I would double the coolant clamps, and never charge the ac with that setup.
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by RimoniManu » Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:35 am

Ya you're right chevycrew, I wont recharge ac system with this setup and I'll go ahead and double up the clamps. Whenever I decide to finally get my ac recharged are there any clamps or something you guys know of that will hold up to the psi?
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by bartonmd » Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:24 am

RimoniManu wrote:Ya you're right chevycrew, I wont recharge ac system with this setup and I'll go ahead and double up the clamps. Whenever I decide to finally get my ac recharged are there any clamps or something you guys know of that will hold up to the psi?


Yeah, the kind that get replaced by hard lines and double flares.

You'll need one of these:
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As a matter of fact, on coolant, oil, and trans fluid lines, where I go from a hard line to a rubber line, I use the double flare kit to put a "bulb" on the end of the tube, to give the clamps something mechanical to hold onto. When doing what you did on fluid lines, I put a bulb on the end of the line, then use 2 clamps.

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by Trail X » Thu Feb 16, 2012 10:41 am

Compression fittings could possibly work for the hard line connector. Then for the hose portion (given the hose is rated for A/C lines), you might be able to do a push-to-connect fitting.

I've used compression fittings on my transmission lines with zero leaks. Conversely, when I was younger (before I knew better!) I used the simple hose-clamp-on-tube method for my transmission cooler lines, and those things leaked non-stop.
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by RimoniManu » Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:29 pm

IT'S ALIVE!!!!! Well, almost. It's been pissing rain off and on today which didn't help the cause too much. So here are the pics that I remembered to take. Sometimes when I really get into something I forget everything else exists.

Again here is a pic of my tank with everything removed. I always label everything I remove thats why there is duct tape around the fittings.
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To remove the charcol evap canister, PITA!, Insert large screw driver here and pry the tabs out.
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I honestly dont know what this is, some type of sensor for the evap? simple to remove, insert screw driver and pry small tab.
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This is the pump container, To open it there are three tabs like this one. Insert screw driver as far as shown and GENTLY pry the tabs inward.
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I've posted this pic before but I said I was going to cut the tubes at the yellow, I only cut the return line. The only thing that holds the sending unit to the pump container is that little lock ring circled in red. I cut that ring and then mounted the pump container onto the bottom of my tank. I extended the electrical wires using butt connectors and extended the return line and main fuel line using rubber fuel line.
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Here is how low the tank sits. I made straps from left over metal, it extends from frame to frame.
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Here are all the components installed on the tank. My charcol canister is mounted on top of the crossmember above the axle. PITA to make it fit, and don't even bother trying if you don't have over 3" body lift. I put it up there because it's out of the way, I wasn't sure if the canister was "this side up" sensitive, so up on the crossmember I could leave it laying down plus it was close to the tank.
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Fuel filter is still up in the stock location. I was kind of suprised what I learned about fuel lines, that they are only plastic tubes. I had thought they were metal but I was wrong, could easily cut with scissors.
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Now the most important part....capacity. I put about 4 gallons in so I could go fill up. I then proceeded to fill up and was able to put in 26.323 gallons when the pump shut off. Turns out it stops automatically when it hits $100. So I swiped my card again and proceeded to fill some more. I was at 7 gallons when I heard a " drip drip drip." I had a small hole around one of the filler neck tube bolts. I'll go put some epoxy around the bolts to seal it once more.
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You can see where it leaked from the spray paint washed off the tank

So at that point I was at 37 gallons and had about 2-4 more inches to fill. I want to get an exact number for you guys so it may be a week or two till I use up all the fuel. I will also install my skid plate while I'm waiting.
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by Trail X » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:28 am

Looks overall pretty good. I do worry however about your line connections. Putting a larger line over a smaller line with only a hose clamp seems like a potential reliability nightmare.
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by RimoniManu » Tue Feb 21, 2012 1:23 pm

Ya I agree James. Where the stock plastic fuel lines connect to the fittings, they all enlarge slightly and are ribbed; this is where I clamped the rubber hose over the tubes. That way the clamp has something to grab on to. I really like it. I sealed up the filler neck real well so in a couple weeks I'll have a final capacity. I have all the room I need now for my 4 link.
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by mikekey » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:38 am

After seeing your most recent post I was just curious about any updates on this project. How it's all working out for you now and if you ran into any additional problems.
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by RimoniManu » Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:16 am

Hey Mike. I only ran into one problem. The pump unit came lose inside because of basically poor planning. I fixed it by using solid steel tubing between the sendng unit and the pump inside the tank. so now it's like the stock setup just with a longer tube. I checked awhile ago on the capacity and if I remember correctly it was 39 or 40 gallons. Almost cost $200 to fill up.
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by mikekey » Thu Aug 02, 2012 11:19 am

Not bad at all, but I'm sure that has significantly increase the overall range and amount of time's your filling up.
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by Decembersend » Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:47 am

Very nice :thumleft: I like seeing how creative people are.
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