Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

44 gal tank install/ help

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by RimoniManu » Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:26 am

New upddate: I'm hoping to finish this weekend if weather permits.
Here's my "secret" compartment cut out.
Image
I made a cover that fits directly over the hole. It makes a nice access panel for my new tank if I ever need to work on the sending unit/pump.

Here is my new tank, just doing a fit test. It fits snuggly between the frame. I'll have to do something for the trailer hitch mounting bolts cause the tank wont fit with the bolts installed.
Image
Image
I finished welding the seams today. If I have time tomorrow I'll weld on mounting brackets, clean it our real well and apply some POR-15 tank sealer.
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by chevycrew » Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:56 am

Where is the exhaust going to end up?
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by fishsticks » Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:39 am

I foresee a rock going through that tank... I watched a K5 Blazer beat the hell out of his tank that was mounted in the same place... and he's taller than you.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Fri Feb 10, 2012 3:09 am

I know our hueys and cobras have self sealing fuel cells in the event it get shot (or otherwise punctured). Is it possible that there is some "civilian equivilent"?
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by chevycrew » Fri Feb 10, 2012 11:59 am

Flipping the hitch back down, then building a skidplate under the tank would help.
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by bartonmd » Fri Feb 10, 2012 12:01 pm

chevycrew wrote:Flipping the hitch back down, then building a skidplate under the tank would help.


My first thought, as well.
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by Trail X » Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:44 pm

He said before that he was going to build a skidplate to cover the bottom.
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by RimoniManu » Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:13 pm

I have 3/8" diamond steel plate going to cover the entire thing. As far as exhaust, right now mine ends right after the tranny crossmember. I wont be running a full exhaust, and I needed the space where the stock tank was because I'm building a long arm 4 link for my eaton HO72.
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by Trail X » Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:19 pm

No kidding... Coupled to a SFA too?

Is diamond-plate the best option for a skidplate? I thought the operative word was skid.
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by RimoniManu » Fri Feb 10, 2012 2:47 pm

I can always put smooth side on bottom. I was told that a 3/8" diamond plate is stronger than a 3/8" flat plate. No SFA for me. I'm putting in a HO72 axle (predecessor of the GM 14 bolt) in the rear. Up Front I'll be making Long travel IFS. Once when I was at a local pick n pull I found a 1968 chevy 1 ton. It's rear trailing arm was about 4.5' long made using steel I beam. That's what started my idea of a long trailing arm 4 link.
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by RimoniManu » Fri Feb 10, 2012 9:44 pm

I just finished re-routing my rear coolant lines. I'll take a pic tomorrow. That is a good option chevycrew. Flipping it back will give added protection plus my skidplate. But then again that bumper/hitch won't be on there much longer. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get done as much as posible before my underwater hockey, and then hopefully sunday I will have it in and completely done. Does anyone know the size of the fuel line, just off the top of their head. I can go measure tomorrow. Thanks for the input guys.
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by chevycrew » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:30 am

Having the exhaust exit under the body is a bad idea. Its actually illegal in utah for that reason. On an SUV it has to exit behind the rear axle, and not under the body. They dont want you to die from fumes when the rig is sitting still.
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by Philberto » Sun Feb 12, 2012 1:36 am

Why not make it a side exit?
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by chevycrew » Sun Feb 12, 2012 3:23 am

With our frame shape, it would probably get smashed where it crossed under the frame.
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by Philberto » Sun Feb 12, 2012 5:37 am

If you had a 3" body lift, you should have enough room to make it pass between the frame and body... would even be possible with a 2" one.
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by navigator » Sun Feb 12, 2012 9:51 am

exhaust also promotes rust, best to get it out from under the truck.
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by RimoniManu » Mon Feb 13, 2012 12:29 am

Hmmm guess that'll be my next project to complete after I get this tank in. Today I made tank straps, started my skid plate and made mounts for the straps and skid plate. I also sealed up al the seams on the outside of the tank. I didn't realize POR-15 takes 96 hours to dry, so that's my first thing to do tomorrow morning. I have all my new fuel lines and wires so as soon as I get the inside of my tank I'll get it installed. IF I remember tomorrow I'll try and get pics.
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by chevycrew » Mon Feb 13, 2012 5:44 am

Damn now you have me thinking of adding a extra tank behind the rear axle instead of building a bigger storage compartment.

20 gallon s10 blazer tank with pump and sending unit... shared fill, toggle for pump transfer, aux fuel gauge...


Ill bet that would have came in handy on your trip James!!!
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by navigator » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:28 am

with the reputation GM has for crappy fuel pumps and senders, having a second tank/pump isn't a bad idea.
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by Trail X » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:08 pm

chevycrew wrote:Ill bet that would have came in handy on your trip James!!!


Yeah, it does sound nice! However, stopping every 4 hours for a break wasn't a bad thing either.

My fab guy had planted the seed a while back for an aux tank back there, I've just held off. But now that I'm carrying my tent around all the time, I'm wishing I had a bit more range.

How would you share the filler line?

If I did this, I was thinking I'd route an aux filler tube up beside the stock one - make a new door in the fender. Then just have a simple fuel transfer pump into the stock filler tube, no secondary level sender.
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